Beginner to beer brewing at home [initial questions]

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You can find a good starter kit for under $100 from any homebrew supplier. I agree with the folks recommending extract to start with. You will get a taste for the process and if you have a big 5 gallon pot you can use that in your kitchen then just top off with water after the boil. A lot of Brewers regret not switching to all grain sooner, but I think you could go extract for cheaper and decide if you like brewing. If you do, everything you have from your first couple batches will be useful in all grain.

Brewing can be expensive. If you only drink craft beer, then in the long run you'll save money. If you only drink cheap mass produced beer, it may be a while before you ever see a return on your investment. Typically, time and space are the biggest investments.
 
Regarding the question. Should you buy a cooler?

Many folks use a cooler as a mash tun.

To control fermentation temperatures you need to actively cool the fermenting beer in most instances depending on where you live and the climate. I am in north Texas so cooling fermenting beer is a must. I use a chest freezer with an external thermostat as many do.

A swamp cooler is another way to do it. The fermenting vessel (FV) is placed in a tub with water around it that can be cooled with ice from ones fridge. In the short term this is cheaper but gives you less control. Long term it is not cheaper as you still need to make the ice which of course requires more electricity over time than running a chest freezer at low levels.

In winter or in cooler climates, or with certain styles of beer and yeast heat does need to be supplied. Just to give you an idea here is an internal view of my little fermentation chamber. It allows me to ferment 11 gallons of beer. Usually two 5.5 gallon batches

image.jpg
 
A prior poster had been discussing starters for yeast. These grow yeast so that you have a stronger army to ferment the beer. Very useful and I use one frequently. I also use dry yeast ( re hydrated) in some brews.

Again lots of areas to explore. Fun stuff to learn about.

This is a decanted starter. I am measuring the Gravity of the spent starter wort to confirm the yeast bad done their thing.

A Finished Starter (a good oxymoron if ever there was one)

image.jpg
 
Water chemistry is also a fun area to explore. Chloramines are present in most people's tap water and needs to removed. This is easily done with Campden tablets. One tablet treats 20 gallons.

The pH of the mash( the process of extracting fermentable sugars from the grain) can be monitored and adjusted. A good pH meter is a prerequisite. There is a resident guru in the brew science forum who recommends 4 types at an affordable price

This is mine. image.jpg

Again lots of details but I'm not sure they will be much use at this stage.
 
Gavin C said:
Regarding the question. Should you buy a cooler?

Many folks use a cooler as a mash tun.

To control fermentation temperatures you need to actively cool the fermenting beer in most instances depending on where you live and the climate. I am in north Texas so cooling fermenting beer is a must. I use a chest freezer with an external thermostat as many do.

A swamp cooler is another way to do it. The fermenting vessel (FV) is placed in a tub with water around it that can be cooled with ice from ones fridge. In the short term this is cheaper but gives you less control. Long term it is not cheaper as you still need to make the ice which of course requires more electricity over time than running a chest freezer at low levels.

In winter or in cooler climates, or with certain styles of beer and yeast heat does need to be supplied. Just to give you an idea here is an internal view of my little fermentation chamber. It allows me to ferment 11 gallons of beer. Usually two 5.5 gallon batches
Click to expand...

I have the exact same layout for my chest freezer in my Garage. -- Thank you for sharing.
 
Gavin C said:
A prior poster had been discussing starters for yeast. These grow yeast so that you have a stronger army to ferment the beer. Very useful and I use one frequently. I also use dry yeast ( re hydrated) in some brews.

Again lots of areas to explore. Fun stuff to learn about.

This is a decanted starter. I am measuring the Gravity of the spent starter wort to confirm the yeast bad done their thing.

A Finished Starter (a good oxymoron if ever there was one)

View attachment 272325
Click to expand...

I along time ago used 2 litre pop bottles to create small amounts of Co2 for a nano planted tank. How did you produce the "starter"?
 
Gavin C said:
Water chemistry is also a fun area to explore. Chloramines are present in most people's tap water and needs to removed. This is easily done with Campden tablets. One tablet treats 20 gallons.

The pH of the mash( the process of extracting fermentable sugars from the grain) can be monitored and adjusted. A good pH meter is a prerequisite. There is a resident guru in the brew science forum who recommends 4 types at an affordable price

This is mine. View attachment 272333

Again lots of details but I'm not sure they will be much use at this stage.
Click to expand...

pH was a large discussion in my salt water days but I imagine the nitrogen cycle bacteria has a lot of commonalities with the yeast thriving.
 
I've found that the RO water I get from the grocery store machine has an exact pH of 7 and a lot of times the grain bill puts me right in range with no adjustments needed And only small adjustments when they are needed. If sure makes things a lot easier
 
ElJefeBrews said:
I've found that the RO water I get from the grocery store machine has an exact pH of 7 and a lot of times the grain bill puts me right in range with no adjustments needed And only small adjustments when they are needed. If sure makes things a lot easier
Click to expand...

RO water if used will require mineral additions for optimal yeast health. Calcium in particular is neede in concentrations greater than 50 ppm for optimal yeast health.

The point of using RO water is that it gives you a blank canvas on which to build the desired mineral profile. Other examples of important ions required are
Sodium
Calcium
Magnesium
Sulphate
Chloride

RO water is often ideal for extract batches as the minerals are all in the malt extract from the malt makers water.

Thre is a great water chemistry primer in the brew science section that will be far better than I at explaining. Way beyond my comfort zone of knowledge here I'm afraid. Time to exit stage left for me.

Again, best of luck with your brewing adventure. I wish you every success in your endeavors. Get a kit from northern brewer, or another online retailer and get brewing, learning as you go. Fwiw I love brewing, have found a method that works well for my desires in BIAB, and am just scratching the surface of the craft. I have been brewing for about 1 year. A veritable novice but learning.
 
Hu
Gavin C said:
RO water if used will require mineral additions for optimal yeast health. Calcium in particular is neede in concentrations greater than 50 ppm for optimal yeast health.

The point of using RO water is that it gives you a blank canvas on which to build the desired mineral profile. Other examples of important ions required are
Sodium
Calcium
Magnesium
Sulphate
Chloride

RO water is often ideal for extract batches as the minerals are all in the malt extract from the malt makers water.

Thre is a great water chemistry primer in the brew science section that will be far better than I at explaining. Way beyond my comfort zone of knowledge here I'm afraid. Time to exit stage left for me.

Again, best of luck with your brewing adventure. I wish you every success in your endeavors. Get a kit from northern brewer, or another online retailer and get brewing, learning as you go. Fwiw I love brewing, have found a method that works well for my desires in BIAB, and am just scratching the surface of the craft. I have been brewing for about 1 year. A veritable novice but learning.
Click to expand...

I should have stated that any additions that I don't make in the mash go into the kettle. And I second the water chemistry primer tab. I started using that and my beers are coming out way better
 
Another vote for small-batch brewing - specifically for all-grain. There's no better way that I can think of to get down to the fundamentals of the steps involved, so that you can master them and learn how the ingredients/steps/characteristics inter-act with each other. I will also second the suggestion of Brooklyn Brew Shop - here is one example of what they will have you brewing immediately, and all-grain:

http://brooklynbrewshop.com/beer-making-mixes/grapefruit-honey-ale-mix

[ame]https://vimeo.com/36299962[/ame]

Other suggestions seem to make things more intricate and complicated than they need to be - when in reality, it isn't all that complicated:

[ame]https://vimeo.com/11354805[/ame]

Just my two cents....

Ron ~
 
Unless you have already bought stuff, then disregard, i would buy:

http://www.beergrains.com/6-Gallon-Fermenting-Bucket/
http://www.beergrains.com/Airlock-Bubbler/
http://www.beergrains.com/auto-siphon-1-2/
http://www.beergrains.com/auto-siphon-clamp-1-2/
http://www.beergrains.com/Bottle-Filler/
Bottlecapper and/or swing-top bottles.
-make a bottle drying rack or buy a bottle tree
-Starsan
-bottle brush
-http://www.beergrains.com/muslin-grain-hop-bag-large/
-http://www.beergrains.com/hydrometer-test-jar-kit/
-http://www.beergrains.com/Floating-Thermometer/
-a good glass measuring cup atleast 1 liter/ 1 quart size.
-a basic electric scale.
-a basic big stirring spoon, just get one from some kitchen store, the ones on the site are horribly overpriced.
-some camden tablets to remove clorinates.

just grab a some basic extract kit you like and try out the base process.
don't worry about water chemistry apart from the camden tablet.
See if you like the process, then you can easily expand to however crazy you want to go.
 
You could go "high class extract" method haha, don't use a kit but rather build your own better quality kit so to speak.

Research they type of beer you are interested in and buy the appropriate:

1. Liquid malt extract
2. Dry malt extact
3. Hopps
4. Quality yeast
5. Specialty grains for a boil
6. One or two additives depending on beer type ie. Orange peel, coriander, vanilla bean ect.

I would also suggest keeping it somewhat simple.

You might find that a properly brewed extract beer, with quality ingredients is as good as an all grain beer. I have been brewing only 6 months and have been really happy with the results.

When you make the "kits" with corn sugar and their yeast its just horrible.
 
agreed, i started with cooper kits myself, but used dme instead of sugar and they made good beer, but just going dme+own hops etc is a good middle ground.
 
EJay said:
I respectfully disagree with both the above posters. Go 1 gallon (to keep it cheap) and all-grain BIAB. Skip extract entirely. Midwest Supply's "Micro Bru" setup is what i started with and couldn't be happier. Brooklyn Brew Shop is another good outfit. This setup is inexpensive and makes great beer with things like pots you probably already have.
Click to expand...


Agree 100%, I started with 1 gallon extract kit from northern brewer, but if I had to do over again I would have bought Brooklyn brew shops 1 gal all grain starter kit. The little BBS all grain kits will give you a lot of knowledge on how the whole process works.

And read this: http://www.howtobrew.com/sitemap.html
 
I see you're using torontobrewing - also check out Ontariobeerkegs.com, I'm in AB and they are still my supplier of choice.
 
Hi Everyone,

I just want to thank everyone answering my hundreds of questions and I feel like I got an amazing package for amazing money.

Thank you.
 
brokendownyota said:
I see you're using torontobrewing - also check out Ontariobeerkegs.com, I'm in AB and they are still my supplier of choice.
Click to expand...

Hi,

Thank you for the suggestion and you are the second person to recommend Ontario Beer Kegs. I will check them out.
 
I think the gear and recipe kit you chose are going to be a great starting point. As Gavin has explained, learn the fundamentals first, but then don't be afraid to move quickly to all-grain, if you decide that's what you want to do. I brewed for 14 years with some portion of extract before moving to all-grain and looking back I wish I would have made the move sooner. I still recommend to friends that they start with extract for at least a few batches (or forever if that's what you like) to understand all the processes of brewing.

Also, since sanitation is the number one factor in making good beer I wanted to add... early in the thread there was a question of using iodine for sanitization. YES it can be used and YES it is a no-rinse sanitizer when diluted properly. I used Io-Star for years without any problems. The biggest drawbacks are that it will stain plastic parts (which is just cosmetic) and it has a longer contact time requirement for proper sanitization. I still have half a bottle of it that I use occasionally, although I now prefer Sani-Clean for kegs and fermenters, and Star-San for everything else.

Hint: fill up a spray bottle of Star-San solution and the stuff will last you forever.
 
fimpster said:
I think the gear and recipe kit you chose are going to be a great starting point. As Gavin has explained, learn the fundamentals first, but then don't be afraid to move quickly to all-grain, if you decide that's what you want to do. I brewed for 14 years with some portion of extract before moving to all-grain and looking back I wish I would have made the move sooner. I still recommend to friends that they start with extract for at least a few batches (or forever if that's what you like) to understand all the processes of brewing.

Also, since sanitation is the number one factor in making good beer I wanted to add... early in the thread there was a question of using iodine for sanitization. YES it can be used and YES it is a no-rinse sanitizer when diluted properly. I used Io-Star for years without any problems. The biggest drawbacks are that it will stain plastic parts (which is just cosmetic) and it has a longer contact time requirement for proper sanitization. I still have half a bottle of it that I use occasionally, although I now prefer Sani-Clean for kegs and fermenters, and Star-San for everything else.

Hint: fill up a spray bottle of Star-San solution and the stuff will last you forever.
Click to expand...

Hi,

Awesome post!

I am (or will be as it is being delivered) very happy with the kit I purchased, I will be getting a few more bits and bobs like a bottling wand etc. but to the point of getting the brew into a fermenter - this seems well rounded and slightly above the minimum starting point. :)

I also upgrade the plastic carboy to a glass carboy.

The kit comes with Star San and I also ordered an extra bottle of Star San on top of that. The Iodine comments came from an article I read that a gentleman was using Iodine, which at the time was exciting because I can get my hands on large amounts of Iodine for cheap.
 
Hi Everyone,

So today I decided to test everything I.e. can my stove get the brew kettle to a boil and whether my wort chiller tubing can be used. So I discovered that neither my stove can bring the brew kettle (8 Gallon kettle with 5 gallons of water) to a boil nor can the wort chiller be plugged into a water source from where I am heating the liquid.

So, I am thinking of boiling the ingredients in my garage will I can run a hose to the wort chiller and run a propane powered stove of some type.

Anyone have any recommendations?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi Everyone,

Ok - final questions.

1. The brewers best instructions mention to steep grains with 2.5 gallons with a mention that - it is the minimum suggestion. The box is intended to make 5 gallons, which I understand I can do from the beginning. Since I have an 8 Gallon brew pot, can I just fill it up to 5.5 gallons to skip the need to top up in the later stages?

2. The instructions don't seem to talk about the need to aerate during the transfer from the pot to fermenter. I am using a syphon for transfer and I am assuming my strategy will be to transfer the liquid with the output hose medium always breaking the surface of the already transfer liquids?

3. My Brewsers best instructions in caps no less, mention "do not rehydrate the yeast" - yet the yeast instructions ask for the yeast to be rehydrated????
 
1. If you can boil at full volume, go for it. Kit instructions seem to assume a 5 gallon kettle maximum.

2. Absolutely aerate by some means. Either by pouring or siphoning at height, or shaking your fermenter. It will only help.

3. The yeast packet is by far the smarter of the 2 pieces of literature here.
 
1977Brewer said:
1. If you can boil at full volume, go for it. Kit instructions seem to assume a 5 gallon kettle maximum.
Click to expand...

I was looking to go 0.5 Gallons above the full volume to avoid the later top up process.

1977Brewer said:
2. Absolutely aerate by some means. Either by pouring or siphoning at height, or shaking your fermenter. It will only help.
Click to expand...

I was going to keep the output high on the syphon and then shake the fermenter 5 minutes before yeast and then 5 mins after yeast.

1977Brewer said:
3. The yeast packet is by far the smarter of the 2 pieces of literature here.
Click to expand...

Agreed! I have Chloramine in my water to save effort - can I just use distilled water in a sanitized glass for the yeast?
 
4. Oh! and for my water - I was going to be lame and filter it through my Brita filter. I know it will take awhile but I am a patient guy and I think the outcome will be so much better. - anyone can any recommendations?

5. Sanitizing the Carboy with StarSan in the videos I have watched shows bubbles and foam but they do not show any post process. Do I just wait for the bubbles to dissipate?
 
tim_s said:
4. Oh! and for my water - I was going to be lame and filter it through my Brita filter. I know it will take awhile but I am a patient guy and I think the outcome will be so much better. - anyone can any recommendations?

5. Sanitizing the Carboy with StarSan in the videos I have watched shows bubbles and foam but they do not show any post process. Do I just wait for the bubbles to dissipate?
Click to expand...


If chloramine is your issue, I'm not sure a Brita will remove it. I use campden tablets to treat for chloramine. Short of that, if your water tastes good it will make good beer.

Don't fear the foam. StarSan is a contact sanitizer, it's only effective if the surface is still wet. Pour right on top of the foam.
 
1977Brewer said:
If chloramine is your issue, I'm not sure a Brita will remove it. I use campden tablets to treat for chloramine. Short of that, if your water tastes good it will make good beer.
Click to expand...

The Brita is not for the Chloramine - it is to improve the taste of the water.

1977Brewer said:
Don't fear the foam. StarSan is a contact sanitizer, it's only effective if the surface is still wet. Pour right on top of the foam.
Click to expand...

Thank you :)
 
6. I add the Campden right in the beginning correct?
 
Hi,

My campden tabs came in a green bag without instructions - do I add them in the water first thing to remove chloramine? My understanding is that they need to be added before the boiling process.
 
Add campden tablets to your total water supply before you do anything else if you have chloromine in your water supply. If you issue is simply chlorine, campden tablets or boiling the water will remove it as well.

You should get a water profile of your drinking water. My water is considered rather soft and so there is not a lot of adjustment needed. When I brew British ales, for example, I typically add a Tbsp. of gypsum for every 10 gallons of water to accent the hop flavor in my beer, even though I tend towards the low end of the profile for hops. For brewing pilsners and other lagers my water is not quite as soft as I want it, so I cut it with distilled water, or use bottled water. I manipulate the mash to get the flavor that I want, and don't worry about adding minerals.

Gallon jugs of spring water are an alternative to filtering with a Brita water filter system. Poland Spring, for example, is a rather soft water and you can add minerals, if you wish, to make it suitable for different beer styles.

Probably the best solution, and one that I'm going to start using this fall, is to buy a RO system. I figure that it will probably pay for itself in about six batches.
 
As for steeping the grain in the full volume of water, you may want to steep in, say 4 gallons or so and then "sparge" your steeping grains with 1.5 gallons, or the remainder, of your water before boiling. When I was brewing with extract, I started doing this "sparge" step with my steeping grains and noticed a much better flavor and utilization of them. This will still work for a partial boil too; just steep in half of your boil volume, then "sparge" with the other half.

Sparging is really a process in all-grain brewing, but for your purposes it really just means rinsing your grains with some additional water to get all of the good liquid and flavor and other contributions out of the grain and into your boil pot. It's a simple step, with big benefits. Good luck!
 
I just brewed my first brew yesterday from a kit and it is sitting in primary fermentation now and has already started releasing CO2. so I think I have don't something right so far. Am I right?

Now on my statement and question: my brew is for an English Brown Ale
I downloaded an app to put recipe info in now after I put the info in the OG is right where it says anticipated should be. Now if I am correct IBU's is the bitterness of a beer. So why does this App tell me my Anticipated IBU's should be around 47.83, when the kit says IBUs should be around 21-25?
 

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