Beginner question about aging.

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Seafoxskipper

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I completed my first (first brew ever period) all grain batch (Vanilla Porter) and it went very smooth. I have a Ss Brewbucket (7 gallon) so as I understand it there is no need for a secondary. My question is the recipe calls for 30 days aging at 12 psi at 65 degrees(I am kegging btw), Now I have 3 gallon kegs and I want to bottle the other half of this 5 gallon batch can I do that? I have priming tablets as well, or should I just split the batch into two separate kegs and do the 12 psi on one and not the other. Then I thought after thirty days I would bottle the second keg that wasn't carbed. How long do the bottles take to get carbonated?

Additionally my other issue is the homemade vanilla extract I made won't get into the bottles if I bottle right after fermentation is complete (2 days from now).

I think I am on the right track but not really 100% positive and I really don't want to screw this first one up!

Thanks!
 
Of course there are many ways to get to the goal you have, but I keg everything I brew. I get consistent carbonation unlike bottling where additional variables may come into play. From the carbed and conditioned keg, I'll bottle when I have the need to share beers away from my kegging system.

Of course you can go ahead and bottle 1/2 the batch, let it carb in the bottle and leave it be so it conditions right in the bottle. Carbing in the bottle may take a couple of weeks, but you will be condition aging longer than that anyway.

Bottling from keg can be tricky and foamy, so a bottling gun that uses counter pressure can be very helpful. If you are inclined to bottle from keg on a consistent basis, a beer gun is a worthwhile investment.
 
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@Morrey Thank you for the reply. Yes my intention is to split the batch with a brew buddy that's why I need to bottle the other half. If I do not connect the CO2 line to the second keg while aging for the 30 days with the vanilla bean extract will I still have foam issues? I thought at the time of bottling from it I would just connect a CO2 line at like 2-3 psi and connect a jerry rigged bottling wand to the out post of the keg add my primer to the bottles and fill at that time.
 
@Morrey Thank you for the reply. Yes my intention is to split the batch with a brew buddy that's why I need to bottle the other half. If I do not connect the CO2 line to the second keg while aging for the 30 days with the vanilla bean extract will I still have foam issues? I thought at the time of bottling from it I would just connect a CO2 line at like 2-3 psi and connect a jerry rigged bottling wand to the out post of the keg add my primer to the bottles and fill at that time.

Strange as it may sound, I have kegged beer after I determined it had met final gravity, then put it in a closet (not on gas) waiting for keezer space to come open. To my surprise, the beer in the keg seemed to do a small amount of self carbonating even though it was not on CO2. I think the yeast may semi-rouse up due to the transfer and will have a small amount of fermentation activity.

Surely you can leave it "still" in the keg to condition being aware that you may have some natural carbing as I mentioned above. It may be just as simple to just go ahead and add the vanilla in a bottling bucket, add a priming tablet per bottle and bottle that beer earlier in the process. Again, the beer will carb in the bottle and age/condition all in one step. In other words, carbonation does not impede or hinder aging of the beer. Then you can leave the bottles sit as long as you like...the longer the better...and you dont tie up a valuable keg in the condition process.
 
@Morrey Thank you that makes very good sense to me. I assume I can bottle straight from my Ss Brew Bucket. At least they say you can...

I have never bottled directly from a Ss Brewbucket (I have two) since I always just go straight to keg from there. BUT....I don't see why you couldn't figure a way to do that.

Depending on the way you'll bottle, you need to add the vanilla. Remember that you'll have a bunch of yeast and sediment in the bottom of the fermenter...you don't want that to be stirred up. Bottling straight from the racking arm is possible with a tube into the bottle, but again, adding the vanilla may be challenging unless you do a few drops per bottle.

It may be easier to rack it into a bottling bucket, add vanilla and priming sugar all into the bottling bucket. From there, you'll fill each bottle and cap it off. Like I say I am no expert in bottling so we are simply exploring the best and most effective way of doing this.
 
@Morrey I have a bottling bucket I was just concerned that I would introduce oxygen to the beer by doing that transfer. I also bought the tablet type priming sugar ( I had no idea you could add to the bucket prior to bottling). But Adding the vanilla in the SS BB would be tricky I agree. Well this is my first time so it should be fun..
 
@Morrey I have a bottling bucket I was just concerned that I would introduce oxygen to the beer by doing that transfer. I also bought the tablet type priming sugar ( I had no idea you could add to the bucket prior to bottling). But Adding the vanilla in the SS BB would be tricky I agree. Well this is my first time so it should be fun..

Even though this may be your first time, it is obvious you are aware of the process and obstacles you'll face. Its much better to iron this out in your head now rather than later and kicking yourself for not digging a bit deeper.

You can calculate how much priming sugar you'll need for a certain volume of beer to be carbed, in fact, I have seen an online priming sugar calculator to help determine the proper amount. Since you have the priming tablets on hand, you may as well use them since they are sitting there. Those are probably more expensive, and in the future you can "bulk" prime an entire bottling bucket full at one fell swoop.

Yes, using a bottling bucket will introduce O2 into your beer...oxygen is not ALWAYS a good thing post fermentation. HOWEVER, the "good" news is that oxygen will be mostly consumed/scavenged in the bottle since a sort of mini or second fermentation is going on in the bottle after capping off. This is what produces your carbonation.

Kegging is not so good with O2 introduced. Instead of a carb process like bottling produces, kegging relies on an outside source such as bottled CO2 to carbonate. You'll want to limit O2 exposure as much as possible when kegging to keep your beer fresh. Oxidation takes a toll on the beer as it can become stale and off tasting over time.

Sounds like you are developing a good plan here.....
 

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