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Anyone ever FWH this with good results? Doing first AG today, and I've only heard good things about FWH, but not sure if it's appropriate here.
 
EdWort said:
I've never tried it with this recipe, or any other one yet.

Ed, I gotta say, it's fantastic. I don't do it in every beer, but I do it wherever I'm looking for a good hops presence. Unless you need to boil down a lot of volume, it's great. In terms of taste, my uneducated palate would guess its equivalent to a 20 minute hop addition, but of course with the full bitterness of a 60 minute addition. Especially in these times of shortage, it's a great thing to play around with... especially for lower-gravity beers that will finish faster and bring more of the flavor/aroma into the finished product without the long secondary.
 
InkPouchMan said:
Anyone ever FWH this with good results? Doing first AG today, and I've only heard good things about FWH, but not sure if it's appropriate here.
I've only ever FWHed this. It was great.
 
Sir Humpsalot said:
Ed, I gotta say, it's fantastic. I don't do it in every beer, but I do it wherever I'm looking for a good hops presence...

It's normal practice for me now. I FWH all my bittering hops. I've noticed that the early back-of-the-throat bite is not there any more. Hence...no more waiting for the beer to mellow to drinkability.
 
I built a MLT from a 5 gallon cooler this weekend in preperation to do a PM and while looking for recipes I found this one. At this point I think I am glad I used a 5 gallon cooler because I am just going to go ahead and go AG for the first time.

Thanks for converting me to the darkside so early in my brewing career Ed. :mug:
 
InkPouchMan said:
Wow, it only took about 40 hours from pitching time to ferment! Airlock activity stopped, gravity 1.011. Incredible.

That's OK. Nottingham ferments out fast. Let sit for 10 days before you crash cool for a couple days before kegging or bottling. Those yeasties will clean up after themselves and then settle down.
 
EdWort said:
That's OK. Nottingham ferments out fast. Let sit for 10 days before you crash cool for a couple days before kegging or bottling. Those yeasties will clean up after themselves and then settle down.

Waaaa? thought you were retiring and Cheese was taking your Mod spot?

Zombie Jesus Ed has risen from the dead!
 
blacklab said:
First wort hopping. Throw your bittering addition in the boil pot as you sparge to it. Works great!

How will that change anything...won't any flavor or aroma be eliminated with the boil? Also, it won't add bitternes, right, since you are not boiling it? So I guess I am confused as to how this would change the character of the beer.
 
nl724 said:
How will that change anything...won't any flavor or aroma be eliminated with the boil? Also, it won't add bitternes, right, since you are not boiling it? So I guess I am confused as to how this would change the character of the beer.
It's a weird one alright. It will add bitterness, as the hops will remain in the wort through the boil - so it actually adds slightly more bitterness than a standard 60 minute addition (according to BeerSmith, anyway). But for some reason I don't fully understand, it's a more mellow bitterness than a 60 minute addition. I'm not sure about what contribution it makes to flavor and aroma. But the beers I've first-wort hopped have all been good ones.
 
nl724 said:
How will that change anything...won't any flavor or aroma be eliminated with the boil? Also, it won't add bitternes, right, since you are not boiling it? So I guess I am confused as to how this would change the character of the beer.

The hops are not instantly boiled, as with a typical 60 minute addition. They are steeped, both while you sparge and while you bring the wort to a rolling boil, which adds a different flavor profile to the wort.

I don't know the science behind it, but it makes a nice beer. I'm sure one of the other guys has the details.
 
so this is going to be my first AG try. when you say 2-row. any 2-row? which did you use when brewing yours? i would really like this to turn out since it will be my first batch in quite a while
 
The recipe calls for 2-Row Pale, but you can use 2-Row Pils if you need to. Be sure to use a 90 minute boil if you use pils so you reduce DMS.
 
I made an 11 gallon AG batch of this stuff last weekend. The only difference was my homebrew store doesn't carry Nottingham yeast, so I asked them for a good substitute. They recommended Safale S-04 which I used. After searching this thread, it appears that I should have used Safale US-05 instead. Now I'm wondering how this double batch will turn out. I suppose its an English ale now instead of an American ale, but will this still be a good tasting beer? I'm new to AG (only my second batch). Thanks.
 
Jumbo82 said:
I made an 11 gallon AG batch of this stuff last weekend. The only difference was my homebrew store doesn't carry Nottingham yeast, so I asked them for a good substitute. They recommended Safale S-04 which I used. After searching this thread, it appears that I should have used Safale US-05 instead. Now I'm wondering how this double batch will turn out. I suppose its an English ale now instead of an American ale, but will this still be a good tasting beer? I'm new to AG (only my second batch). Thanks.
I just made a split-batch IPA comparing S-04 and US-05. The S-04 has some slight fruity notes to it, whilst the US-05 is cleaner and drier. I think for the style the US-05 would be more appropriate, but the S-04 will still make excellent beer. So RDWHAHB! :mug:
 
Thanks Danek. That puts my mind at easy. Half of this batch will be going into my first keg, the other half into bottles. I'm looking forward to comparing the two. And I'm really looking forward to having a beer in my kegerator (which still being assembled)!
 
EdWort said:
The recipe calls for 2-Row Pale, but you can use 2-Row Pils if you need to. Be sure to use a 90 minute boil if you use pils so you reduce DMS.

i keep reading about DMS but i havent had a problem with it during 60 minute malt brewing sessions. Is this much more prevalent in AG?
 
and also i cant seem to find crystal 10L. ive been looking at northern brewer since they have better shipping rates than the other places ive found.

....am i able to substitute anything with the same L degree and flavoring? (im assuming this is referring to the color)
 
scinerd3000 said:
and also i cant seem to find crystal 10L. ive been looking at northern brewer since they have better shipping rates than the other places ive found.

....am i able to substitute anything with the same L degree and flavoring? (im assuming this is referring to the color)

Crystal 20L will work fine. It will have a more golden color to it.
 
EdWort said:
Crystal 20L will work fine. It will have a more golden color to it.

I made my first batch of this recipe last week and my LHBS also didn't have Crystal 10L. I wanted to keep the color down, so I went with a "dark" 11L munich that they had.
 
I made a batch of this yesterday (my first AG) with Crystal 20L instead (LHBS didn't have 10L). I accidentally undershot my target mash temp, it was 147 for the first 15 minutes until I could boil more water (1 gal), which then only brought it up to 150. I know this will make the wort more fermentable, but do you think it will drastically affect the flavor? Should I think about adding some maltodextrine at bottling for more body?

BTW I used an extra pound of base malt to account for low efficiency on my first AG attempt. It was bubbling like crazy in the fermenter this morning, so it is off to a good start. Unfortunately, I forgot to take an OG reading last night, and I will be out of town, so that sucks. It looked great in the fermenter and smelled awesome, so I am looking forward to this one in any case. Any suggestions?
 
I made a batch of this yesterday (my first AG) with Crystal 20L instead (LHBS didn't have 10L). I accidentally undershot my target mash temp, it was 147 for the first 15 minutes until I could boil more water (1 gal), which then only brought it up to 150. I know this will make the wort more fermentable, but do you think it will drastically affect the flavor? Should I think about adding some maltodextrine at bottling for more body?

I had the exact same problem hitting my mash temp.

I brewed this today as my first AG. Overall I think it went ok. Besides the mash temp issue, I also broke my auto siphon and my dog knocked my hydrometer off the counter, breaking it as well. At least I gathered a lot of data on my HLT and MLT.

I'm very excited to see how this turns out. I don't think I messed it up too bad. Hopefully my next AG goes a little smoother.
 
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