InkPouchMan
Well-Known Member
Anyone ever FWH this with good results? Doing first AG today, and I've only heard good things about FWH, but not sure if it's appropriate here.
EdWort said:I've never tried it with this recipe, or any other one yet.
I've only ever FWHed this. It was great.InkPouchMan said:Anyone ever FWH this with good results? Doing first AG today, and I've only heard good things about FWH, but not sure if it's appropriate here.
Sir Humpsalot said:Ed, I gotta say, it's fantastic. I don't do it in every beer, but I do it wherever I'm looking for a good hops presence...
InkPouchMan said:Wow, it only took about 40 hours from pitching time to ferment! Airlock activity stopped, gravity 1.011. Incredible.
EdWort said:That's OK. Nottingham ferments out fast. Let sit for 10 days before you crash cool for a couple days before kegging or bottling. Those yeasties will clean up after themselves and then settle down.
blacklab said:Waaaa? thought you were retiring and Cheese was taking your Mod spot?
Zombie Jesus Ed has risen from the dead!
blacklab said:First wort hopping. Throw your bittering addition in the boil pot as you sparge to it. Works great!
It's a weird one alright. It will add bitterness, as the hops will remain in the wort through the boil - so it actually adds slightly more bitterness than a standard 60 minute addition (according to BeerSmith, anyway). But for some reason I don't fully understand, it's a more mellow bitterness than a 60 minute addition. I'm not sure about what contribution it makes to flavor and aroma. But the beers I've first-wort hopped have all been good ones.nl724 said:How will that change anything...won't any flavor or aroma be eliminated with the boil? Also, it won't add bitternes, right, since you are not boiling it? So I guess I am confused as to how this would change the character of the beer.
nl724 said:How will that change anything...won't any flavor or aroma be eliminated with the boil? Also, it won't add bitternes, right, since you are not boiling it? So I guess I am confused as to how this would change the character of the beer.
I just made a split-batch IPA comparing S-04 and US-05. The S-04 has some slight fruity notes to it, whilst the US-05 is cleaner and drier. I think for the style the US-05 would be more appropriate, but the S-04 will still make excellent beer. So RDWHAHB!Jumbo82 said:I made an 11 gallon AG batch of this stuff last weekend. The only difference was my homebrew store doesn't carry Nottingham yeast, so I asked them for a good substitute. They recommended Safale S-04 which I used. After searching this thread, it appears that I should have used Safale US-05 instead. Now I'm wondering how this double batch will turn out. I suppose its an English ale now instead of an American ale, but will this still be a good tasting beer? I'm new to AG (only my second batch). Thanks.
EdWort said:The recipe calls for 2-Row Pale, but you can use 2-Row Pils if you need to. Be sure to use a 90 minute boil if you use pils so you reduce DMS.
scinerd3000 said:and also i cant seem to find crystal 10L. ive been looking at northern brewer since they have better shipping rates than the other places ive found.
....am i able to substitute anything with the same L degree and flavoring? (im assuming this is referring to the color)
EdWort said:Crystal 20L will work fine. It will have a more golden color to it.
I made a batch of this yesterday (my first AG) with Crystal 20L instead (LHBS didn't have 10L). I accidentally undershot my target mash temp, it was 147 for the first 15 minutes until I could boil more water (1 gal), which then only brought it up to 150. I know this will make the wort more fermentable, but do you think it will drastically affect the flavor? Should I think about adding some maltodextrine at bottling for more body?