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This thing ferments like a beast!
Down from 1.053 to 1.007 in 2 days, madness (doesn't hurt that it's 25C here at the moment)

Out of interest, why does this beer ferment so well? (it's better than the 8 other brews I've done in the past). Is it purely a function of mash temp, or does grain choice (or something else) also play a role?

My variables:
64C mash for 75 minutes
1 pkt US05 yeast
25C fermentation temp (I don't have a chamber, so it's in the coolest room in my house)
 
This thing ferments like a beast!
Down from 1.053 to 1.007 in 2 days, madness (doesn't hurt that it's 25C here at the moment)

Out of interest, why does this beer ferment so well? (it's better than the 8 other brews I've done in the past). Is it purely a function of mash temp, or does grain choice (or something else) also play a role?

My variables:
64C mash for 75 minutes
1 pkt US05 yeast
25C fermentation temp (I don't have a chamber, so it's in the coolest room in my house)

Ha!

I've made it a couple of times with S-05 at 65° and it is always among the most violent fermentations that I have had. I don't have a clue as to why
 
chalkdust41485 said:
You should just move to Florida! Just got finished with a Saison brewed at 83* without temp control... :)

Thanks for that ;)

The only advantage I have is that cooling wort at this time of year takes about 10 mins. Oh and I didn't get to brew yesterday so extreme cold weather brewing it is !!
 
I bottled this today, I will say, very tasty, I'm thinking more hops next time, well maybe, I have yet to drink it carbed, but first impressions indecated a lacking in hop presents.
We will see
 
This thing ferments like a beast!
Down from 1.053 to 1.007 in 2 days, madness (doesn't hurt that it's 25C here at the moment)

Out of interest, why does this beer ferment so well? (it's better than the 8 other brews I've done in the past). Is it purely a function of mash temp, or does grain choice (or something else) also play a role?

My variables:
64C mash for 75 minutes
1 pkt US05 yeast
25C fermentation temp (I don't have a chamber, so it's in the coolest room in my house)

I think it's the highly fermentable wort from the simple, lightly kilned malts and low mash temp. Of course 25C is going to rip through just about anything. Mine went to 1.008 in about 4 days.
 
I bottled this today, I will say, very tasty, I'm thinking more hops next time, well maybe, I have yet to drink it carbed, but first impressions indecated a lacking in hop presents.
We will see

As far as Pale Ales goes, this one is not super hoppy.
 
I have half a dozen different craft brews & imports in the fridge, but what am I drinking? You guessed it! Edwort's House Pale. Just a straight up good beer that you want to drink day after day.
 
I made this a couple of weeks ago with only one minor change. I used Falconers Flight for the 2 late additions. I made this in a 10 gallon batch and dry hopped half with 1 oz. of Falconers. The dry hop version came out awesome. Really nice hoppyness. Thanks for the great recipe Ed!
 
I was thinking about brewing this one for a quick turn around to keep the pipeline goin cuz I waited too long :smack: I want to brew this as a PM. I read through most of this thread and didn't find much. I particularly wanted to mash some of the 2-row and reduce the amount of DME. Maybe mash 4lbs and supplement with some DME. I don't have a big enough pot, otherwise I would just do this BIAB AG. I don't have much experience calculating strike and sparge water though. Any advice?
 
I use a brewing slide rule to calculate partial mashes. You can go to brewer's friend, or another online calculator. Plug in the recipe, then make the changes you want, keeping the OG and IBU the same. Strike water temp is about 10-12 degrees above your mash temp. Use 1.5 quarts per pound of grain. Base malt is 30 points per pound per gallon, DME is 42. So a four pound mash reduces the DME three pounds.
 
Ok so my Bee Cave HPA is very nearly ready to be drunk, I sampled a bottle last night.
I had posted a week or so ago when bottling this, about the lack of hop presents and was a little dissapointed with the overall uncarbed product, well you win some you lose some. However apon last nights sample my thoughts have changed, still lacking in the hop department but i can easly change that for my taste. But the taste, Clean, Smooth, slightly sweet,Refreashing. OMG, hats off to ya Ed, Its a GREAT BEER. My wife really enjoyed the sample too,( This is good, she will let me brew more).
So Thank you Ed.
 
I use a brewing slide rule to calculate partial mashes. You can go to brewer's friend, or another online calculator. Plug in the recipe, then make the changes you want, keeping the OG and IBU the same. Strike water temp is about 10-12 degrees above your mash temp. Use 1.5 quarts per pound of grain. Base malt is 30 points per pound per gallon, DME is 42. So a four pound mash reduces the DME three pounds.

Thanks for the advice! I already use Brewers Friends yeast pitch calc and a few others. Are you referring to the recipe builder they have? I've never used it or thought about using it like that. Still a noob just getting into recipe building. I suppose it's probably time to buy one. I've heard a lot of folks here talk about Brew Smith and others. I really just need to pony up and pay for it. Do they calculate the needed sparge as well? I know you want to mash with 1.25-1.5 quarts per pound of grain, but I haven't heard much about calculating sparge.
 
I use Brewer's Friend free, you can build and save only five recipes, but it allows a lot of calculations. While I try to calculate my water volumes, I mostly watch my gravity. That way if I end up with 4-3/4 or 5-1/4 gallons, it will be close to the right gravity. I'm still working out my methods too, I've only been brewing a year. But close is good enough. Before I put it in the fermenter, the gravity lets me know If I should add some water, or boiled water and extract. Don't stress about it, make the beer. No two are exactly the same anyway.
 
I use Brewer's Friend free, you can build and save only five recipes, but it allows a lot of calculations. While I try to calculate my water volumes, I mostly watch my gravity. That way if I end up with 4-3/4 or 5-1/4 gallons, it will be close to the right gravity. I'm still working out my methods too, I've only been brewing a year. But close is good enough. Before I put it in the fermenter, the gravity lets me know If I should add some water, or boiled water and extract. Don't stress about it, make the beer. No two are exactly the same anyway.

I'm with you there! I started brewing a year ago as well and I have done a few PM batches. I only have a 5 gallon kettle, so it kinda limits me a bit. I WISH I had a 10 gallon kettle so I can do BIAB AG. I mainly don't want to impart off flavors by over sparging or anything of that nature. Right now I'm doing well when I have instructions...but now I'm starting to want to change things and don't know how.

Edit: So here's what I made up from Brewers Friend. Tell me what you think.

Recipe Type: Partial Mash
Yeast: Nottingham
Yeast Starter: Nope
Batch Size (Gallons): 5.5
Original Gravity: 1.050
Final Gravity: 1.012
IBU: 39.65
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 5.11 SRM
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 10 Days at 64 degrees
Brewhouse Efficiency: 60%

Grain Bill
4 lbs. 2-Row Pale Malt
3 lbs. DME
2 lbs. Vienna Malt
0.5 lb. Crystal 10L Malt
0.5 lbs. Carapils

Mash with 8 qts of water @ 166F. for an hour.
Sparge with 8 qts of water @ 170 for 10 min.

Then ill top up with a frozen 1g store bought jug of water and another cold water jug to make it my 5.5 target batch size.

The only other difference I plan on doing is dry hopping with an additional ounce of Cascade. I also plan to do a 4 gallon boil VERY carefully!! I only have a 5 gallon boil kettle otherwise I would just do this BIAB AG. Brewers Friend wanted me to mash with 8.75 qts according to their mash calc, which would obviously be too much. So I hope that won't change much only mashing with 8 qts. The sparge is the only confusing part for me, which is the only part that I didn't do with a calculator!! So 8 qts was a guess. Too much?!? Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
It looks good, but you want your strike water at 166, your mash should be 152, right? I also think you can mash in more water if you wish. I manage to BIAB mash 10 lbs in 3.5 gallons in a 5 gallon pot, so 9qts: 2.125 gallons should be fine. Check your gravity before you top off, remember to adjust for temp. Cascade dry hop sounds great. Do watch your boil, especially before the hot break. Most of all, don't worry, it will be good!
 
It looks good, but you want your strike water at 166, your mash should be 152, right? I also think you can mash in more water if you wish. I manage to BIAB mash 10 lbs in 3.5 gallons in a 5 gallon pot, so 9qts: 2.125 gallons should be fine. Check your gravity before you top off, remember to adjust for temp. Cascade dry hop sounds great. Do watch your boil, especially before the hot break. Most of all, don't worry, it will be good!

Yes! I meant 166 accounting for the temp loss from doughing in. Which by the mash calc it says if my grain is around 70 at dough in, then 166 will end up being 152. Hmmmmm...so you mash 10lbs in a 5 gallon kettle with 3.5 gallons? This sounds interesting. Then do you sparge with a gallon? Or do you do the traditional no sparge and top up to your target OG? I do want to move to BIAB, but i only have my 5 Gallon kettle. Thanks!!
 
At first I'd just put it in a colander in another pot, squeeze it by putting a plate on top (it's hot). Then I'd pour hot water over. Last time I "dunk sparged" it in another 3.5gallons, stirring some. I actually think the first method was better, but I can't be sure. Even though that's 7 gallons, remember that the grain soaks up some, then some boils off, then some is lost to hot break, cold break and hop trub. The dunk sparge needs to big pots. The other can be done with your 5g and a big pasta pot. The colander should fit inside the pot if possible, or the wort will spill over the sides when squeezed. Many people practice no sparge BIAB with full volume, but many use the methods I've described. Check the BIAB sub-forum for more tips.
 
At first I'd just put it in a colander in another pot, squeeze it by putting a plate on top (it's hot). Then I'd pour hot water over. Last time I "dunk sparged" it in another 3.5gallons, stirring some. I actually think the first method was better, but I can't be sure. Even though that's 7 gallons, remember that the grain soaks up some, then some boils off, then some is lost to hot break, cold break and hop trub. The dunk sparge needs to big pots. The other can be done with your 5g and a big pasta pot. The colander should fit inside the pot if possible, or the wort will spill over the sides when squeezed. Many people practice no sparge BIAB with full volume, but many use the methods I've described. Check the BIAB sub-forum for more tips.

Thanks a ton for all of your help! I think I'm gonna stick with the recipe I have. I have read A LOT about BIAB. Mostly the dunk sparge methods, because that's what I plan to do once I am able to afford a bigger pot. I was considering buying a cheap 32q aluminum one at waliworld for $22, but I think I'm gonna hold off to buy a 40q ss one. Especially since the SWMBO is already not so happy about the expenses of my keezer build I've started :D
 
My pleasure. It's a brewer's obligation to help others brew. I certainly have learned much on this forum and others. Do let me know how it works out, I'm sure it will be good.
And you are wise to keep the Mrs happy.
 
My pleasure. It's a brewer's obligation to help others brew. I certainly have learned much on this forum and others. Do let me know how it works out, I'm sure it will be good.
And you are wise to keep the Mrs happy.

I hope to pick up the stuff to brew it in a week or two. I'll post the results when I brew it! I learned something from a very wise man that shared this with me many moon ago...happy wife, happy life. I adopted this concept very early and so far...it has worked out GREAT! Lol.
 
Beer has carbonated, at about 6%, it has nice bitterness and wonderful aroma. If I didn't know better, I would call it an IPA.

This is a great recipe but I really like the hop changes I made (Centennial for bittering and Cascade for aroma).

First keg is already kicked. Second keg tastes so much better than the first, usually the case with my beers since the 2nd keg has more time to allow the flavors to mellow out.

This is one recipe that I like more and more each time that I make it and being my 5th iteration, I think it's the one recipe I've brewed the most!

I also have EdWort's Apfelwein ready to be kegged. Hoping to serve it at our xmas hosting this year. But I've gone off topic.
 
This was my second batch ever, first one I kegged, and just simply a delicious brew. Me and the guys put a dent in the keg over a game of RISK. Thanks Ed!

ForumRunner_20131218_122344.jpg
 
Just kegged and put this on gas after brewing for the first time. I went with the original recipe but added less than half an ounce of williamette that I had in the fridge at the end of the boil - hopefully that wasn't a mistake!

Looking forward to tasting it soon!
 
This was my second batch ever, first one I kegged, and just simply a delicious brew. Me and the guys put a dent in the keg over a game of RISK. Thanks Ed!

View attachment 166663


Is it wrong to want to drink this at 8:53am...?!?

Looks amazing, pretty sure this is my next brew, I like the idea of using falconers flight hopes too.
 
I have brewed this in 10 gallon batches about 12 times since I started brewing about 13 months ago. I followed the recipe, but doubled everything. OG/FG running 1.062/1.012. EVERYONE loves this beer. My friends cant get enough.

Absolutely a brew for the masses.

Brick_Haus recommended!
 
I tried brewing this as a BIAB when I just began brewing, and failed miserably. I'm making another attempt tomorrow, which should turn it around in a keg quick enough for the super bowl!
 
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