American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale
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philrose
Well-Known Member
I think the recipe starts to creep towards blonde ale when you use the plain two row and closer resembles the picture in post #1 with the pale ale malt.
Your results may vary, of course. The recipe is solid. It will make good stuff either way.
Your results may vary, of course. The recipe is solid. It will make good stuff either way.
philrose
Well-Known Member
I should let someone else voice their opinion on this as well but here goes...
My answer to that is if you want a slightly toastier/richer beer, go for the darker kilned base malt
If a slightly crisper/paler beer is what you crave, go with the domestic 2 row.
the differences are small. Not unnoticeable, but choosing one or the other wouldn't ruin the beer. Again, I like the Great Western NW Pale Ale malt. Brewing is all about little choices that make snowball changes in the finished beer.
Replicating beer 100% doesn't happen often from two different brewers. You can hand two people identical ingredients and recipes and you'll almost always be able to detect a difference between the two final products side by side. Processes are different from person to person. Boil Kettles have slightly different dimensions, fermentation temperature controls vary, water mineral content is is not a constant. These are just a few of the variables.
Anyway, RDWHAHB. The beer tastes great either way.
My answer to that is if you want a slightly toastier/richer beer, go for the darker kilned base malt
If a slightly crisper/paler beer is what you crave, go with the domestic 2 row.
the differences are small. Not unnoticeable, but choosing one or the other wouldn't ruin the beer. Again, I like the Great Western NW Pale Ale malt. Brewing is all about little choices that make snowball changes in the finished beer.
Replicating beer 100% doesn't happen often from two different brewers. You can hand two people identical ingredients and recipes and you'll almost always be able to detect a difference between the two final products side by side. Processes are different from person to person. Boil Kettles have slightly different dimensions, fermentation temperature controls vary, water mineral content is is not a constant. These are just a few of the variables.
Anyway, RDWHAHB. The beer tastes great either way.
I should let someone else voice their opinion on this as well but here goes...
My answer to that is if you want a slightly toastier/richer beer, go for the darker kilned base malt
If a slightly crisper/paler beer is what you crave, go with the domestic 2 row.
the differences are small. Not unnoticeable, but choosing one or the other wouldn't ruin the beer. Again, I like the Great Western NW Pale Ale malt. Brewing is all about little choices that make snowball changes in the finished beer.
Replicating beer 100% doesn't happen often from two different brewers. You can hand two people identical ingredients and recipes and you'll almost always be able to detect a difference between the two final products side by side. Processes are different from person to person. Boil Kettles have slightly different dimensions, fermentation temperature controls vary, water mineral content is is not a constant. These are just a few of the variables.
Anyway, RDWHAHB. The beer tastes great either way.
Sounds good. I guess I will just see how I feel when I get to the brew store and just pick from there. Thanks. :rockin:
philrose
Well-Known Member
You got it man!
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
Ended up grabbing some pale malt at the brew store and I am ready to go for tomorrow. Gonna throw in an extra oz of cascade at the end of the boil for aroma but otherwise it is all the same. :rockin:
I asked about this in this beginner's brew forum but nobody seemed to know if the following is ok or not. I was about to cold crash a batch of this recipe in particular so I thought I'd ask here, too, in case one of you learned folks knew if this was going to be a bad move. 
It's getting cold outside theses days and I have a closeted pantry with very thin walls. I'm thinking of cold crashing the beer (it's done fermenting) but I've never cold crashed a beer before due to lack of chilling equipment.
My question is this: Does it matter if the temperature fluctuates about 15 degrees, so long as it stays cool? This week it's supposed to be in the high 30s at night and low 50s during the day. Will the fluctuation in temperatures become a problem?
Also there's a window in the room so I'm thinking of tossing a blanket over my food grade plastic Ale Pale bucket. Is that being overcautious when it comes to light hitting hops?
Thanks!
It's getting cold outside theses days and I have a closeted pantry with very thin walls. I'm thinking of cold crashing the beer (it's done fermenting) but I've never cold crashed a beer before due to lack of chilling equipment.
My question is this: Does it matter if the temperature fluctuates about 15 degrees, so long as it stays cool? This week it's supposed to be in the high 30s at night and low 50s during the day. Will the fluctuation in temperatures become a problem?
Also there's a window in the room so I'm thinking of tossing a blanket over my food grade plastic Ale Pale bucket. Is that being overcautious when it comes to light hitting hops?
Thanks!
fezzman
Well-Known Member
My first attempt at this recipe was also slightly sour. Everything else about it was fine...and it was still quite drinkable despite being sour. I entered it into competition because I wanted feedback. The judges said that it may have been mashed too long.
I'm sitting here now giving it another try...sorta. The grain bill is exact but I am using all Palisade hops this time.
I've never used them before and figured this recipe was the one to test with.They have a pretty unique aroma and at 8.1 alpha they should work fine for bittering. I've read mixed reviews so I am curious to see how this turns out.
I've got:
1oz @60
.75 @10
.5 @ 0
41 IBU
I'm quoting myself.
I just pulled my first sample of this from the keg. It came out quite awesome, if I do say so myself. I'll leave it alone for a bit longer to condition.
I kept the grain bill the same except for adding 1oz of Biscuit malt. Then I hopped with the above schedule using Palisade.
I also brewed a batch of the Haus Pale Ale using Cascade (per EW's recipe) but it is still sitting in secondary.
Centexbear
Well-Known Member
Brewed this up yesterday. Went very smooth..hit target OG on the money. Airlock action within 8 hours.
Question about bottling: I read a lot and searched but never find a definitive answer about how long in the primary, secondary, and how long conditioning in the bottle.
I think I had settled on 3 weeks in primary, no secondary and 3 weeks in the bottle. I did use a gelatin for the very first time in another brew just last week so I could do a week in 2ndary with gelatin to clear the beer out nicely if necessary or advisable.
Ed's kegging/crash cooling instructions confused me as a bottler....I've never kegged so I don't know how to handle the process if you bottle.
Ed says 10 days to ferment...should I just bottle after 10 days and bottle condition for 3 weeks or a little longer in primary since I'm not cold crashing like in kegging? (can't cold crash right since I still need some yeast alive for bottle carbination right??).
Thank you for the recipe Ed and anyone for any advice you can provide to a newbie!
Jeff
Question about bottling: I read a lot and searched but never find a definitive answer about how long in the primary, secondary, and how long conditioning in the bottle.
I think I had settled on 3 weeks in primary, no secondary and 3 weeks in the bottle. I did use a gelatin for the very first time in another brew just last week so I could do a week in 2ndary with gelatin to clear the beer out nicely if necessary or advisable.
Ed's kegging/crash cooling instructions confused me as a bottler....I've never kegged so I don't know how to handle the process if you bottle.
Ed says 10 days to ferment...should I just bottle after 10 days and bottle condition for 3 weeks or a little longer in primary since I'm not cold crashing like in kegging? (can't cold crash right since I still need some yeast alive for bottle carbination right??).
Thank you for the recipe Ed and anyone for any advice you can provide to a newbie!
Jeff
ericw
Well-Known Member
I have a batch of this in bottles now that I made a few weeks ago. It was my 2nd time using this recipe. I followed the instructions the first time, but this recent batch I used Amarillo hops for the last 2 hop additions. The little bit I had in the tester tasted good, but it's hard to get a feel for it when it's flat and warm.
If I were to use Extra Light DME to prime this for bottle conditioning, how much should I use / have you used?
OP
OP
EdWort
Well-Known Member
For bottler's this is fine.
Actually, for keggers, 3 weeks in a primary is optimal as the yeasties have plenty of time to clean up after themselves.
a_w_taylor
Well-Known Member
I will be attempting this today as my first AG! I am totally psyched!
a_w_taylor
Well-Known Member
80.1% efficiency - some how I ended up with around 7 gallons pre-boil. Post boil my gravity was 1.058 - I look forward to some tasty beer with a little more kick than planned!
Thanks for sharing Ed! I am now on board with AG and will be looking to Santa for a larger kettle and mash tun for some bigger AG brews!
Thanks for sharing Ed! I am now on board with AG and will be looking to Santa for a larger kettle and mash tun for some bigger AG brews!
I used the same malt bill and and roughly the hopping schedule of the Kona clone (added 1 oz Cent bitter and 1.5 oz dry hop) and i have made a winner of a Haus-brau! it's so delicious and genius brew. the difference maker for APA and IPA hybrid. Actually my favorite AG brew thusfar!
Beernewb
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tried this recipe, thanks Ed.
Encountered my first stuck sparge, what a fiasco. I tried tapping on the interior valve, line and mash screen in an effort to get the blockage to release, and the nut that was holding the mash screen to the top of the apparatus fell off. Luckily, since I used two pots to heat my sparge water (5 quarts and 3.5 gallons), I had an extra empty cooler. I dumped my mash into the second cooler, fished out the parts, put my msh tun back together when my neightbor pops over to chat and show me pictures of his nephews brewery. I put the grains back in as I was talking to him, trying to save the batch, but being distracted, I didnt clear the line, which was obviosly full of brain by now. So back into the other cooler, and I took a garden hose to the line. Now back into the mash tun and voila, I have my first runnings. It gets better. Vorlauf, empty the tun and head into the house to bring out the second pot of water. I return to find my wort running on the ground becuase I LEFT MY KETTLE OPEN..I always open the valve after cleaning to air dry everything, but in my rushing around to try and save this beer, I never looked. I only lost about two qts from what i could tell. So I boil, add my hops in the specified times, cool down and pitch the yeast. MY OG was 1.052, probably b/c my batch is a bit light on volume, but I usually get great efficiency both batch sparging lower gravity beers and fly sparging my beers over 1.060. My carboy showed activity in 6 hours, but I never got a huge krausen, maybe an inch or so. I checked on it this morning, still bubbling away (48 hours), but the krausen completely dropped out. I never use dry yeast, but is this normal? Still have hope for this one based on the OG-I'll take a gravity reading in a few days.
Encountered my first stuck sparge, what a fiasco. I tried tapping on the interior valve, line and mash screen in an effort to get the blockage to release, and the nut that was holding the mash screen to the top of the apparatus fell off. Luckily, since I used two pots to heat my sparge water (5 quarts and 3.5 gallons), I had an extra empty cooler. I dumped my mash into the second cooler, fished out the parts, put my msh tun back together when my neightbor pops over to chat and show me pictures of his nephews brewery. I put the grains back in as I was talking to him, trying to save the batch, but being distracted, I didnt clear the line, which was obviosly full of brain by now. So back into the other cooler, and I took a garden hose to the line. Now back into the mash tun and voila, I have my first runnings. It gets better. Vorlauf, empty the tun and head into the house to bring out the second pot of water. I return to find my wort running on the ground becuase I LEFT MY KETTLE OPEN..I always open the valve after cleaning to air dry everything, but in my rushing around to try and save this beer, I never looked. I only lost about two qts from what i could tell. So I boil, add my hops in the specified times, cool down and pitch the yeast. MY OG was 1.052, probably b/c my batch is a bit light on volume, but I usually get great efficiency both batch sparging lower gravity beers and fly sparging my beers over 1.060. My carboy showed activity in 6 hours, but I never got a huge krausen, maybe an inch or so. I checked on it this morning, still bubbling away (48 hours), but the krausen completely dropped out. I never use dry yeast, but is this normal? Still have hope for this one based on the OG-I'll take a gravity reading in a few days.
Beernewb
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I am a bottler who doesnt crash cool. How long would you crash cool and at what temps?
do you bring the beer back to room temp to prime? I've always heard you need to add yeast at bottling if you crash cool.
cheesecake
Well-Known Member
brewed 5 gallons of this on saturday...cant wait
atcobrewer
New Member
Just finished up a batch, missed my gravity got 1.031, not sure why my mash temp was spot on. Gain bill was a bit different, 8lbs of 2 row pale, 2lbs vienna and 1lb cara belge. Also i accidentally pitched half oz of cascased @20 rather then 30min. Do you think it will turn out?? Hope so I thought it was gonna turn out to be a good batch.
dummkauf
Well-Known Member
just kegged this one up, primed with corn sugar since all my lines off my CO2 tank are full, so I'm going to have to get drinking to empty one of the 2 taps to make room for this bad boy! I took one last hydro sample and after tasting that I can NOT wait for this one to carb up and get tapped, it was fan-friggin-tastic!!!
I think this pale ale, plus yoopers 60 min DFH clone, need to always be on tap, and I have 2 taps so that works out!!! Everything else can go in bottles, but this batch will not last long.
Thanks for sharing EdWort!!!
I think this pale ale, plus yoopers 60 min DFH clone, need to always be on tap, and I have 2 taps so that works out!!! Everything else can go in bottles, but this batch will not last long.
Thanks for sharing EdWort!!!
jackers252
Well-Known Member
Just ordered the stuff for this one today. I can't wait to brew it.
I used to crash all my beers after I got my fridge, but didn't have kegs. Fridge temp for 2 or 3 days should crash the yeast. Just make sure it is down to terminal gravity. I never had a problem bottle conditioning doing this. Enjoy!
Centexbear
Well-Known Member
Could someone please explain what crash cooling is both in bottling and kegging?
How do you do it and more importantly, why do you do it?
Thank you in advance for your replies!
Jeff
How do you do it and more importantly, why do you do it?
Thank you in advance for your replies!
Jeff
Crash cooling is basically moving the fermenter to a cold place (outside, fridge, kegerator) for 24-48 hours in order to let everything settle to the bottom. This is done at the end of fermentation. You can then bottle/keg a much clearer beer.
NorCalAngler
Well-Known Member
Has anybody tried moving the 30/15 minute hops to FWH? Results?
