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American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

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My first AG today and I wanted it to be this recipe. All in all it went very well. My OG is an awful 1.035 but this could be due to the mill. I've heard complains lately about the LHBS not giving a good result EVEN after passing the grains twice as I did!
Anyway, I did it alone and really enjoyed the process but especially the wonderful smells from the boil.
I pitched it 30 minutes ago.
I'm relaxed, I'm not worried and I'm having a homebrew.

Cheers Ed and thanks for the recipe :mug:

Yeah this recipe was my first AG as well a couple weeks ago. My OG was pretty bad too so I brewed another AG this past weekend and did a double batch sparge as well as stirred the crap out of it when doughing in and whenever I added my sparge water. Granted it was a different recipe but my OG was pretty close to target so not stiring enough could have helped to cause that low OG.
 
Yeah this recipe was my first AG as well a couple weeks ago. My OG was pretty bad too so I brewed another AG this past weekend and did a double batch sparge as well as stirred the crap out of it when doughing in and whenever I added my sparge water. Granted it was a different recipe but my OG was pretty close to target so not stiring enough could have helped to cause that low OG.

I'm still blaming the crush. I'll be making a second batch over the yeast cake once I transfer. We'll see how that goes.
I will stir the crap out of it this time.
 
Ed, I just kegged 10 gallons of this, I decided I wanna dryhop 5 gallons with some cascades in the keg. My question is how much and how should i go about it? I've already searched the thread and didn't find the answer i was looking for, maybe I didn't look good enough? Thanks
 
Been through 100+ posts and I don't remember seeing anything about CO2 volumes. I'm new to kegging and I'll be kegging this at room temp 65*-70*. What CO2 volume do you recommend EdWort and how might you achieve that? :mug:
 
Ed, I just kegged 10 gallons of this, I decided I wanna dryhop 5 gallons with some cascades in the keg. My question is how much and how should i go about it? I've already searched the thread and didn't find the answer i was looking for, maybe I didn't look good enough? Thanks

I've done it with 1oz. I gave it a week in the keg before drinking it. By the second week :rockin:.
 
Thanks for the reply MGMT. So you set yours at 25-28psi @ 66 for about 2 weeks and then purge and take it down to serving pressure? I'll mostly likely be doing the set it and forget it method, not necessarily speeding force carbing.
 
Thanks for the reply MGMT. So you set yours at 25-28psi @ 66 for about 2 weeks and then purge and take it down to serving pressure? I'll mostly likely be doing the set it and forget it method, not necessarily speeding force carbing.

yeah I have done a couple kegs this way since I moved because i no longer have a large fridge to keep kegs in to carb. But 25-28 PSI seems to do the trick. I typically check the kegs after a week to see how they are doing.

I don't have it down to an exact science but it works.

:mug:
 
I brewed a batch of this extract-style. I am going to bottle in a few days when I have time, but on my last OG test, the stuff tasted amazing flat and warm.

I used a 7.5% AA cascade, and I am really excited to see how it turns out when carbed, conditioned and chilled
 
Mine didn't turn out not quite as "haus" as expected.

OG - 1.052
FG - 1.004
ABV - 6.3%

I guess that thinner longer mash improved fermentability a bit too much. The hydrometer sample tastes great though. It's hard to tell warm and flat, but I think it may turn out pretty good. I even re-calibrated my hydrometer just to be sure.
 
Mine didn't turn out not quite as "haus" as expected.

OG - 1.052
FG - 1.004
ABV - 6.3%

I guess that thinner longer mash improved fermentability a bit too much. The hydrometer sample tastes great though. It's hard to tell warm and flat, but I think it may turn out pretty good. I even re-calibrated my hydrometer just to be sure.

Well you should be happy that you can get such good attenuation. Now just use that to brew an Imperial IPA or a strong Belgian ale.
 
Brewed a batch of this a couple months ago (extract version). This is easily one of the best beers I have brewed. Its soo good! And many others that have tried it agree.

Thanks for the recipe Ed. Im so glad i brewed a whole 10 gallons.

Martin
 
Read the 1st 35 pages.... didnt see anything to answer this....

Eds directions:
Single Infusion mash for 60 minutes at 152 degrees.
I batch sparge in a 10 gallon water cooler with a stainless braid manifold. Dough-in with 3.5 gallons of water. After 60 minutes, add 5 quarts of 175 degree water and begin vorlauf. My system only takes about 2 quarts before it clears up, then it's wide open to drain in the kettle. Have another 3.25 gallons of 175 degree water ready for the next batch sparge. You should then get 6.5 gallons to your kettle for the boil.

So my strike water AND my sparge water should be 175? With grain it goes down to the 152 degrees? Also, some say you have hotter temp water for the sparge... to stop enzymes... 175 both times is ok?
 
ok, im on page 35 but I have a question. I am brewing this as my first AG as well. After reading papazians books I am wondering if I missed something. I heard people talk about whirlpooling and all. My past malt extract full boils i just dumped the kettle into the bucket after the hour boil.... hot/cold break and all. Do you guys all whirlpool then siphon out from the sides of the brew kettle? Would I be ok with this one by dumping it all in the bucket or is it a MUST to whirlpool and siphon AG batches?

wow i just realized the last post was MINE from 2 days ago... still have a few questions to figure out here... maybe ill post these in AG forum.
 
Beau815 you can use something like this calculator to figure out what temp your strike water should be: Green Bay Rackers--Mash Calculators

You want the strike water to be hot enough so when it looses heat from the grain and sitrring that it ends up around your desired mash temp. You should also pre-heat your mash tun so you don't have to account for that heat loss.

I have only done a few AG batches but I like doing two batch sparges with the water around 175.

I have been whirlpooling and then letting my kettle sit for 10 or 20 minutes. From my experience it doesn't do a lot except let some of the pellet hops and everything settle down to the bottom. Then I usually pour all of the wort from the kettle into my bucket and stop pouring when it starts to get really really heavey with hop sludge. But it's not like I don't any any of it in my fermenter because I do... just not all of it.

I have also just poured it all into the bucket and I didn't noticed any ill effects.
 
Well you should be happy that you can get such good attenuation. Now just use that to brew an Imperial IPA or a strong Belgian ale.

I brewed a belgian strong a few months back. I got some heavy duty attenuation with WLP530. I started low and raised the temps over the period of seven days. It turned out well, it also ended up having some very nice pear notes and a 8.2%ABV. It is LBJ in a bottle. Well, a keg anyway.
 
From my experience it doesn't do a lot except let some of the pellet hops and everything settle down to the bottom. Then I usually pour all of the wort from the kettle into my bucket and stop pouring when it starts to get really really heavey with hop sludge.

I have also just poured it all into the bucket and I didn't noticed any ill effects.

I am using a paint strainer to contain hop pellets so maybe i dont have to whirlpool it at all.... i will pour into the bucket and slow down at the end to see if i see any hot/cold breaks in the bottom...
 
I am setting up right now to make this recipe today. It will be my first ever beer making experience.
I just realized that I bought s-04 instead of 05, doh! Oh well, I'm just trying to get through the process today and if it results in something drinkabe, I'll be thrilled.
Wish me luck!
 
Purchased the ingredients from Brewmasters Warehouse on the link from the original post.
This will be my thirst batch and first all grain.
Nottingham was in stock so woohoo, can't wait to try it.
 
I am going to brew this up tomorrow and had to sub. one ounce of Cascade for an ounce of Perle....Any Idead How I should to my hop additions with this one....

Thanks
 
Question on my efficiency... I followed directions to a T and used all the exact ingredients yeast and all (I used 11L instead of 10L crystal malt, does that matter) Ok. This was my 1st AG and I took my gravity like a noob... in the kettle when the thermometer showed 70 degrees i dropped my hydrometer in... it was looking like 1.040-1.041 accounted for the 10 degrees and added a point to bring it to 1.042 at the most... Now could my stupid technique have given me a false reading? Maybe it was hotter than that deeper down in the kettle? I should of used a hydrometer jar and should of taken the sample from the fermenter b4 adding yeast but was so bummed by my low reading I didnt bother. Do you think it will come out ok? Was hoping to brew a 5-6% abv for a family get together... looks like they will need to drink a 6 pack like BMC to get a decent buzz...

A second parter to this post: I am going to brew this again. I want to add 2lbs of pale 2-row to bring my gravity up... even if I mash efficient and hit 1.062 or something I dont mind... I want to add an oz of hops to make up for the extra 2 lbs... what hop should I use? Another cascade? Or something like a willamette?
 
Question on my efficiency... I followed directions to a T and used all the exact ingredients yeast and all (I used 11L instead of 10L crystal malt, does that matter) Ok. This was my 1st AG and I took my gravity like a noob... in the kettle when the thermometer showed 70 degrees i dropped my hydrometer in... it was looking like 1.040-1.041 accounted for the 10 degrees and added a point to bring it to 1.042 at the most... Now could my stupid technique have given me a false reading? Maybe it was hotter than that deeper down in the kettle? I should of used a hydrometer jar and should of taken the sample from the fermenter b4 adding yeast but was so bummed by my low reading I didnt bother. Do you think it will come out ok? Was hoping to brew a 5-6% abv for a family get together... looks like they will need to drink a 6 pack like BMC to get a decent buzz...

A second parter to this post: I am going to brew this again. I want to add 2lbs of pale 2-row to bring my gravity up... even if I mash efficient and hit 1.062 or something I dont mind... I want to add an oz of hops to make up for the extra 2 lbs... what hop should I use? Another cascade? Or something like a willamette?

I think the beer will turn out ok... Just let it sit and it'll be great.
I would recommend you to measure the gravity after mash before boil..
I usually get the sample into the hydro tube and chill in the freezer.. .after 10 minutes, it should get to 60-70F. I measure and get an estimation on my SG... From here, i can either boil as is.. or add some DME to raise the gravity. I usually just leave it alone...

The extra 2# of grains doesn't equal to another oz of hops.. unless you really want to hop it.. the extra #s are just there to compensate the low efficiency. It doesn't necessary raise your gravity up another 10 points... so no worry.... but you can always add more hops if you like it that way.
 
yeah i do like a hoppy beer but for my family who drink bmc i wanted something exactly like ed's haus. For myself i think ill do the 3 oz and 2# in the future. Thanks for the info ill check SG preboil next time.
 
Beau815, you said you followed the directions exactly???? Being that it was your first all grain, that is not a horrible thing to do, but you still have to come up a system that works for you and you equipment. Getting a gravity of 1.041 could be caused by a few things....If your boiloff wasn't as much as you thought it could lead to the same result.....Did you end up with more wort than you wanted???
 
nope.. i thought i was going to undershoot 5 gallons at the end but ended up with a tad over 5 gallons... it was how i mashed im sure... maybe the milling by the LHBS helped but i didnt sparge twice... drained and refilled and drained again... guess im supposed to do it twice.
 
How does this look for a PM version of this. I like to use more grains than extract, so I didnt want to do the original version of the PM. This seems to be as similar as i can get to the Haus Pale Ale. I might have to try this once one of my carboys gets freed up. Let me know what ya guys think. (I use Deathbrewer's PM technique).


Type: Partial Mash
Date: 5/9/2009
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Time: 60 min
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00
Mash Temp 152

Ingredients

Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 37.50 %
2.50 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 31.25 %
2.00 lb Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 25.00 %
0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 6.25 %
1.00 oz Cascade [6.60 %] (60 min) Hops 23.8 IBU
0.50 oz Cascade [6.60 %] (30 min) Hops 9.1 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [6.60 %] (15 min) Hops 3.0 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [6.60 %] (5 min) Hops 1.2 IBU
1 Pkgs California Ale (White Labs #WLP001) Yeast-Ale



Beer Profile

Est Original Gravity: 1.051 SG
Est Final Gravity: 1.012 SG
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 5.18 %
Bitterness: 37.1 IBU Calories: 225 cal/pint
Est Color: 6.3 SRM

:mug:
 
20090510194605.jpg


After 2 1/2 weeks in the bottle. (And half the glass consumed.)

Mighty Tasty. Thanks Ed
 
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