Batch sparging water volumes

[olotti]

No, that's a "180 diptube" or "return diptube."

Here's is a 1/2" street elbow:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/nptelbowstreet.htm?1=1&CartID=0It's male on one end and female on the other.

It screws directly into your bulkhead, and you can screw that 1/2" barb adapter into the female end, and point it toward the bottom. Even if it remains under an angle, and close to the bottom or touching it, the more and longer it can siphon.

The closer to the bottom and wall that wort inlet is, the less deadspace there is when tilting, and the less wort remains behind.

Ahhhhh ok gotcha. Thanks for the clarification. Now it makes more sense. So the only benefit to this vs the angled dip tube is that it sits closer to the bulkhead so it gets more of the wort when tipping the tun vs the dip tube that sits closer to the middle of the mlt. I’ll see what I can put together here. Of course I already ordered the dip tube so it would be here Friday before I brew Saturday so guess I’ll put it through a trial run and see what happens. Hopefully between the two options this will solve my issue with the dead space and maybe boost my mash efficiency a little bit.

 

[IslandLizard]

Ahhhhh ok gotcha. Thanks for the clarification. Now it makes more sense. So the only benefit to this vs the angled dip tube is that it sits closer to the bulkhead so it gets more of the wort when tipping the tun vs the dip tube that sits closer to the middle of the mlt. I’ll see what I can put together here. Of course I already ordered the dip tube so it would be here Friday before I brew Saturday so guess I’ll put it through a trial run and see what happens. Hopefully between the two options this will solve my issue with the dead space and maybe boost my mash efficiency a little bit.

If the end of that diptube is very close to the bottom it should lauter/siphon most of the deadspace. Try with some water and see how much stays behind. If needed you could extend the diptube with a short piece of hose, to reach closer to the bottom. Cutting the end that's close to the bottom on a slant, parallel with the bottom, it may keep siphon going even longer. Like a suction nozzle.

Anyway, I find street elbows very handy and use them a lot.

 

[olotti]

If the end of that diptube is very close to the bottom it should lauter/siphon most of the deadspace. Try with some water and see how much stays behind. If needed you could extend the diptube with a short piece of hose, to reach closer to the bottom. Cutting the end that's close to the bottom on a slant, parallel with the bottom, it may keep siphon going even longer. Like a suction nozzle.

Anyway, I find street elbows very handy and use them a lot.

Ok I’ll do that. Looks like the street elbow is pretty cheap so I may go buy one just to have on hand. Do u find any clogging issues when trying to filter out the gunkier thicker powdery stuff.

 

[IslandLizard]

Ok I’ll do that. Looks like the street elbow is pretty cheap so I may go buy one just to have on hand. Do u find any clogging issues when trying to filter out the gunkier thicker powdery stuff.

One of the best adapted uses of street elbows is this one:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/cambl.htmThe 1/2" hose slides over the barb, created by machining down the male threads. Then put a worm clamp over the hose connection.
Voila, a high flow elbow/camlock, great for mash tun or kettle exit ports, and such!

I don't use a false bottom, while deadspace is nil. Fine sludge doesn't seem to precipitate/accumulate much, it must remain mixed in with the grist.
I have a CPVC manifold on the bottom. The slits are rather wide, they don't get clogged easily.

 

[olotti]

If the end of that diptube is very close to the bottom it should lauter/siphon most of the deadspace. Try with some water and see how much stays behind. If needed you could extend the diptube with a short piece of hose, to reach closer to the bottom. Cutting the end that's close to the bottom on a slant, parallel with the bottom, it may keep siphon going even longer. Like a suction nozzle.

Anyway, I find street elbows very handy and use them a lot.

so the street elbow won’t work. 3/4” threads make the elbow so big it literally rests tight to the bottom of the cooler. So I got the dip tube today too and once threaded, I have to buy a 3/4” M to 1/2” F for it to thread into and it sits right off the bottom with the opening at a slight angle so this should pick up 95% of the wort in there so I think this may be the ticket, as long as the thicker stuff doesn’t clog it.

 

[IslandLizard]

Are you saying you have a 3/4" bulkhead in your mash tun? Whoa!

 

[olotti]

Are you saying you have a 3/4" bulkhead in your mash tun? Whoa!

Yeah I just built it off the specs of the how to brew book. It’s a 3/8 ball valve but on the backside ie in the cooler it uses a 1/2m to 3/4 female which then connects the 3/4”m barbed fitting.

and I did some water tests with the dip tube and it runs slower but I did notice like u said a sight tilt and it runs a little harder and catches most of the wort. I’m just praying it doesn’t get clogged or take an hour to drain the mlt.

 

[IslandLizard]

and I did some water tests with the dip tube and it runs slower but I did notice like u said a sight tilt and it runs a little harder and catches most of the wort. I’m just praying it doesn’t get clogged or take an hour to drain the mlt.

Speed of flow depends on pressure, gravity in this case, exerted by the column of liquid above it. If you had only 2 inches of water in the tun, for your test, that flow will be much less than when 4 gallons is sitting above it.
At some point the inside diameter of the dip tub will start playing a role, beginning to limit flow, but you'll be enjoying a good flow by that time already.

 

[olotti]

Speed of flow depends on pressure, gravity in this case, exerted by the column of liquid above it. If you had only 2 inches of water in the tun, for your test, that flow will be much less than when 4 gallons is sitting above it.
At some point the inside diameter of the dip tub will start playing a role, beginning to limit flow, but you'll be enjoying a good flow by that time already.

Ok that’s kinda what I was thinking with gravity and pressure of grain and wort. Thanks. bout to drain the tun. Fingers crossed. Hope it goes better than the beer I just attempted to pressure transfer to a keg. I’ll post a thread about that In the kegging section.

 

[JAReeves]

You could also try this: get a bag from Wilser that fits your MT/BK. Most of the crap gets filtered out, you can squeeze the poopies out of the grain (.25 grain mill setting), and then you can do a Denny-1/2 water Strike and 1/2 Batch Sparge. I do about 7 gallons for an average beer. I up it to 8 for a barley wine/imperial. I normally come in with a 1gal boil-off per hour, and then figure it out from there.

To be fair, I also have a carboy that is always fermenting a mixed yeast and sour culture with extra runoff. I call it the **** Show because it's whatever was leftover from either a miscalculation of what's going into the fermenter or what's coming out.

 

[Gusso]

So I should prob ditch the false bottom eh. When I got this cooler I attempted to use a ss braid by making my own out of those ss water connection lines and pulling the mesh out from inside the line so it was just the ss braid and it caused a stuck mash which I’ve never had before so I can only attribute it to the ss braid. My intent was to switch it over To the braid so I didn’t have anymore dead space And I could hopefully increase my efficiency but just didn’t work that time. I also noticed in a water test that as lizard mentioned once the water line dipped below the nipple where the braid was connected it broke the siphon and still left would be wort behind.

Why not get a BIAB (Wilser) and ditch the false bottom?