Basic electric burner

[Magnus314]

Could you do something more simple, like 2 elements to get to a boil, then unplug one to maintain a boil?

Would save the cost of a controller if just one it would keep a boil going.

 

[brewprint]

You guys have been great so far. I think with all the comments and suggestions that I would be better off with some of the things said here.

I want to upgrade to a larger kettle anyway and this may give me an excuse to do so.

So far I need:

20 gallon concord pot. $100
5500 element
Pump
False bottom
Controller
Fittings

Now I just need to figure out how to assemble it all and the details on fittings and what not.

My house is wired to back feed from a generator if the power goes out. Or I just get a cord to plug into where the dryer goes if I want to brew inside.

 

[Bobby_M]

You guys have been great so far. I think with all the comments and suggestions that I would be better off with some of the things said here.

I want to upgrade to a larger kettle anyway and this may give me an excuse to do so.

So far I need:

20 gallon concord pot. $100
5500 element
Pump
False bottom
Controller
Fittings

Now I just need to figure out how to assemble it all and the details on fittings and what not.

My house is wired to back feed from a generator if the power goes out. Or I just get a cord to plug into where the dryer goes if I want to brew inside.

The generator backfeed should have a manual interlock on the main panel that would disallow you from flipping that breaker on while the main is also on. The dry outlet is a better option, but keep in mind that you want GFCI protection also. That means changing the panel breaker out to GFCI or putting a spa subpanel inline somewhere. You can make it portable with a male and female plug on the in/out respectively.

 

[brewprint]

The generator backfeed should have a manual interlock on the main panel that would disallow you from flipping that breaker on while the main is also on. The dry outlet is a better option, but keep in mind that you want GFCI protection also. That means changing the panel breaker out to GFCI or putting a spa subpanel inline somewhere. You can make it portable with a male and female plug on the in/out respectively.

Mine is not setup how you describe. Each time that I use it, I actually have to plug in the outlet to the dryer outlet.

 

[brewprint]

Yup, that's what lot of us do. I use the steamer basket in my kettle with a pump and a controller to maintain mash temps. 2 x 1500 watt elements and I'm on standard 120v, 15 amp outlets.

I didn't suggest a false bottom (or basket) because you said you had no plans for a false bottom.

This is what I want to do but with a single element and a false bottom.

How do you set up a pump with this?

I think that it would also be nice to just have a temp probe under the false bottom while mashing and circulating.

To cool I would just use my normal immersion chiller.

 

[cod3ck]

Mine is not setup how you describe. Each time that I use it, I actually have to plug in the outlet to the dryer outlet.

You're still plugging in some kind of GFCI protected circuit though right?

Here's an example -- controller (left) - GFCI protected spa panel (right)

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1454689065.466860.jpg

This isn't in the picture, but the spa panel has a male plug that connects to the dryer outlet.

 

[TexasWine]

This is what I want to do but with a single element and a false bottom.

How do you set up a pump with this?

I think that it would also be nice to just have a temp probe under the false bottom while mashing and circulating.

To cool I would just use my normal immersion chiller.

The pump setup is pretty plain vanilla. Kettle valve, pump, discharge valve, return through the lid through a tee with the temp probe, hose under the lid in the kettle.

24v DC pump. Don't need anything fancy. Steamer basket is used in lieu of a false bottom.

I've used both an IC and plate chiller. Both get the job done.

 

[brewprint]

The pump setup is pretty plain vanilla. Kettle valve, pump, discharge valve, return through the lid through a tee with the temp probe, hose under the lid in the kettle.

24v DC pump. Don't need anything fancy. Steamer basket is used in lieu of a false bottom.

I've used both an IC and plate chiller. Both get the job done.

Do you have a picture of that pump?

 

[brewprint]

You're still plugging in some kind of GFCI protected circuit though right?

Here's an example -- controller (left) - GFCI protected spa panel (right)

View attachment 335482

This isn't in the picture, but the spa panel has a male plug that connects to the dryer outlet.

No, when we've ran the generator there hasn't ever been a GFCI installed. It sure sounds like that needs to be done.

 

[brewprint]

Watching this video now.

https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1836.htm

 

[brewprint]

Alright, I think I'll post again.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=382286

The very top is the controller that I think that I need to build.

https://www.homebrewhedonist.com/budget-electric-brewing/

The above link has some good info where I can get the controller, temp sensor, and probe.

Bobby M if you have the basic stuff that I need here to get rolling that would be great. You don't happen to have a list already put together do you?

I'm thinking with a pump and all of the fittings I'm going to around $200. Another $250 for the panel and roughly $50 for the element. $100 for the 20 gallon kettle on Ebay. I'm not sure how much a false bottom would cost.

In total I'm going to be around $650-$700 or maybe $750 including the new bag from Wilser.

This set up is how I think I'm going to go.

Now if I could get a 5500 watt 220 volt with a pump, false bottom, enclosure and everything that I need already made I'll go that route.