Basement E-Brewery

[CidahMastah]

Cool - I wish they had those in 120V!

Did you find your fan, while it got the job done, could use a little extra kick? I was looking a a 747 cfm fan and was wondering if that was ridiculous overkill. It has an 8'' pipe and I was basically just looking to use an expander/reducer at instead of a hood at first.

 

[-MG-]

Did you run the system without the insulation? What were the differences? I currently have my fan setup (haven't tested yet), and have rigid duct working in, uninsulated and while I know this works fine for Kal at the electricbrewery. I'm curious if it's something I should look into.

 

[Rondacker]

Cool - I wish they had those in 120V!

If you are talking the switches, yes, they are available with 120-V indicators.
You can get them configured for almost any switching/indicator combo you need.

Did you find your fan, while it got the job done, could use a little extra kick? I was looking a a 747 cfm fan and was wondering if that was ridiculous overkill. It has an 8'' pipe and I was basically just looking to use an expander/reducer at instead of a hood at first.

Yes, it got the job done. My installation was a bit noisey. Added CFM would add to the noise. I don't think I would want any more in my situation.
Your thought to use a reducing fitting is a good one. You could connect it to the duct with a short bit of flex. That way you could lower it to the kettle, then raise it for hops additions, etc.

 

[CidahMastah]

I did't see those switches with 120v were they on that site? Forgive me if I totally botched it (Still learning with electrical so I tend to shy away unless someone who knows tells me it is the right part)

 

[CidahMastah]

would this be the type I would look for?

 

[xsists]

would this be the type I would look for?

Yes, those are illuminated though. This project looks to be using non-illuminated switches.

 

[CidahMastah]

Oh I thought his had LEDs in them. I am basically looking for a 120 led switch that illuminated, or illuminates when turned to the on position. I was using SPDT switches before and wanted to change them to something a little cooler. I figured I could save on cost from going switches, + a 22mm light to indicate on. This way I combine the light and the switch.

 

[CidahMastah]

I think these are actually what I am looking for

if i have it right these would be normally opened, then maintained when closed (no spring back).

 

[xsists]

Both links are showing the same part number.

 

[CidahMastah]

Both links are showing the same part number.

oops my bad!

I thought I had tagged the spring mechanism switches in the first link.

So I guess my question to you guys is (maybe more directed at Rondacker since he has the switches in hand):

1. Are the switches constantly illuminated? Or only when they are turned to the closed position?
2. The N.O. (normally open) means that in the off position (dial to the left) it is maintained off. Turning clockwise = maintained closed position "on" with no spring mechanism back.

I am still struggling a little with the H/W lingo for switches and before I buy 6 of these bad boys I would love to know what I am getting.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[P-J]

...
1. Are the switches constantly illuminated? Or only when they are turned to the closed position?
2. The N.O. (normally open) means that in the off position (dial to the left) it is maintained off. Turning clockwise = maintained closed position "on" with no spring mechanism back.
...

#1 - This depends on how you wire the indicator lamp. If you wire it from the switch load side (through the lamp to neutral) it will be on only when the switch is on. If you wire it from the power input side it will be always on.
#2 - That particular switch is a maintained switch. (No spring return.)

 

[CidahMastah]

#1 - This depends on how you wire the indicator lamp. If you wire it from the switch load side (through the lamp to neutral) it will be on only when the switch is on. If you wire it from the power input side it will be always on.
#2 - That particular switch is a maintained switch. (No spring return.)

Thanks PJ - it looks like I will be able to figure this out once I have the switch in hand. From what you are saying it sounds like I will be able to make that determination when I do the wiring.

I think I might grab two of these and try them out, then decide if they are right for the rest of my set up.

Thanks!

 

[Rondacker]

I finally got my plate heat exchanger installed;

The wort side is hi-temp silicone with quick connects. The water side is hoses.

I did a stout the other day, and the wort got from boiling to 68* in about 10-minutes. (re-circ and winter water temp is about 52*)

The system works great, I got 75% eff with this last batch.

Now on to tidying up the sensor wiring and labeling the hoses. (I want to remove them to dry, and keep in a cabinet away from critters)

Thanks to everyone for the support and great information!:rockin:

 

[jholen]

Awesome!

 

[Rivenin]

someday... someday... lol congrats!

 

[rfinley]

Hey Rondacker, it was great to have met you this past weekend. I found the thread on your build, it will be a great reference as I start mine. Sorry I didn't get to wish you a safe trip home. I was packing up and looked over and you were gone !! I'm sure I'll have some questions so stay tuned. Your maple ale was GREAT !!

 

[Rondacker]

Thanks Randy. We enjoyed the campfire with your family. The pepper (chipolte?)
ale was very good. I hope you build the brewery. Let me know if I can help in any way.
Cheers

 

[Fly_Rodder]

I did a stout the other day, and the wort got from boiling to 68* in about 10-minutes. (re-circ and winter water temp is about 52*)

What are you using to filter your wort prior to chilling? Or do you filter, if it all, post chill? I was using a hop stopper, but I'm not a huge fan and I'm looking for alternatives.

 

[Rondacker]

I'm whirlpooling and using Irish moss. Since the post about the stout I have done two other brews with no trouble so far. I clean up by circulating oxyclean with the heat set to 180. Rinse the HX with fresh water. I'm not filtering.

 

[wadefisher]

I would have some kind of screen on pickup tube or inline when using a heat exchanger. Larger particles can get lodged in them and make problems cooling and sterilizing on the following batches. Just My Opinion

 

[Rondacker]

I would have some kind of screen on pickup tube or inline when using a heat exchanger. Larger particles can get lodged in them and make problems cooling and sterilizing on the following batches. Just My Opinion

I guess I am using a filter of sorts. I use a hop spider with a paint filter bag. Hops and other additions go into the bag. When cleaning up, I have never seen much in the way of particles.

What do you suggest, a bazooka?

 

[wadefisher]

Anything with a screen about the size of the bazooka will work. The paint filter bag is probably even finer mesh, so all the better. The problem with heat exchangers is they can get debris caught in them and then they are hard to sterilize properly. I have a blichman 'hop blocker' and the holes in it are a little too big on the top side for my comfort. I have back flushed for 15 minutes when cleaning and still able to spot small pieces of debris come out later. Before I had the 'hop blocker' I just whirl pooled and I have had enough stuff caught in it to slow down the flow. Then had to work like crazy to soak and back flush it out.
As they say, an ounce of prevention is a pound of cure.