Ball valves suck, trying out 1/2" threaded butterfly valves

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thefost

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I came to the conclusion a month back that ball valves just suck. Unless you completely disassemble them you just don't know if they are clean, and there was at least once where mine were not. Brulosophy had an interesting post recently on them as well.

I've been looking all over for something better and aside from too-large 1.5" tri-clover ball valves, the best I've been able to find are 1/2" bronze/brass threaded butterfly valves. I haven't seen any posts on these things, so I thought I give a little mini-review

I started out with this brass Eurofly one on ebay. I then got a this bronze milwalkee bb2-100 with stainless disk on amazon to compare.

I've attached some pics of them, Milwaukee is on the right.

I got the ebay one first, acid soaked it to remove any surface lead, and used it in my brew system to throttle my mash circulation. I thought that the grooves for positioning the handle would be helpful for setting liquid speed consistency, but I ended up setting the handle halfway between two grooves to get the right speed, so they were useless. The other problem I had with this valve is the disk is just too big, limiting liquid flow and making setting liquid speed more difficult. These were'nt big issues, but I thought I might be able to find a better one.

I just got the bronze Milwaukee one with stainless disk and have done a little preliminary testing. As you can see in the picture the bore is bigger and the stainless disk is much thinner. There is much more room for liquid to flow through this valve. I was concerned at first that the handle was a little loose and might not stay in position, but testing with my 50psi faucet has proven that the handle will stay put where you set it. I haven't used it on my brew system yet, but it looks like a winner.

I'd much prefer these in Stainless, but alas they don't exist. I'll keep an eye on these valves to make sure the brass/bronze isn't corroding too fast. I think the trade off of knowing my valves are not harboring gunk is very much worth switching to bronze and the price increase. Hopefully I'm not missing some obvious reason not to use these valves, but right now I think I'm going to switch to all Milwaukee butterfly valves.

Or maybe someone knows of something even better?

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I have 3 piece ball valves. They get cleaned out at the end of each batch. Wouldn't that be easier/cheaper/stainless or am I missing something?
 
I have 3 piece ball valves. They get cleaned out at the end of each batch. Wouldn't that be easier/cheaper/stainless or am I missing something?

Depends.
If you disassemble the valve to clean it, it is easy to keep crud from accumulating.
But if like me you just run and or soak pbw through the valve, then crud can build up.

The three piece ball valves I had were a pain to disassemble.
Butterfly valves are nice because no disassembly is needed to thoroughly clean them.

Bob
 
The three piece ball valves I had were a pain to disassemble.

Seriously? I don't know what kind you have but I can take mine apart in about 30 seconds, and 20 of those seconds is used for finding the tools to do it.
 
I have just installed these on my BK and HLT. Yet to be used properly, but briefly boil tested and happy. Given that they cost me the equivalent of $5 each its hard to see how you could go wrong. You can tighten the handles with a small spanner on that top nut.
 
Ok I'm officially concerned about using the bronze milwaulkee butterfly valve. I went on zoro.com where this vavle is slightly cheaper and found this disclaimer:

" This product is not intended for potable water applications (human consumption – drinking and cooking) and has not been designed to be compliant with the “Safe Drinking Water Act” requirements for low lead in potable water applications. This item is for use, only, in non-potable (non-human consumption) water applications.***This is a restricted item. It cannot be used in the USA for potable water applications "

Not seeing anything like that for the eurofly one
 
Ok I'm officially concerned about using the bronze milwaulkee butterfly valve. I went on zoro.com where this vavle is slightly cheaper and found this disclaimer:

" This product is not intended for potable water applications (human consumption – drinking and cooking) and has not been designed to be compliant with the “Safe Drinking Water Act” requirements for low lead in potable water applications. This item is for use, only, in non-potable (non-human consumption) water applications.***This is a restricted item. It cannot be used in the USA for potable water applications "

Not seeing anything like that for the eurofly one

It's thanks to the low lead law in CA and VT where they think everything causes cancer. if you did the acid or vinegar & peroxide soak you removed most of the surface lead and will have nothing to worry about
 
It's thanks to the low lead law in CA and VT where they think everything causes cancer. if you did the acid or vinegar & peroxide soak you removed most of the surface lead and will have nothing to worry about

This^^. Apparently in California you'll get cancer just by looking at anything made of bronze.
 
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc2f12npt.htm

use this with triclover butterfly valves. The threads (unsanitary) would only be where boiling water contacted them.

Thanks, yeah I use some triclover parts, but to do this we're talking a $47 1" valve plus two $12 tri-clover to npt fittings. So its $47+$12+$12= $71 for a single valve that is bigger and bulkier than I'd like. The valves I originally posted are in the $5 to $15 range, and the only real downside I'm seeing so far is that they're not stainless. Is having a single valve be stainless worth an extra $60? Maybe...

Those quick clean ball valves are pretty slick. I'd still prefer butterfly valves because you don't have to disassemble at all to clean, just recirculate pbw.
 
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