Bad SSR?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jsemeyn

Active Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2010
Messages
25
Reaction score
2
Location
Chicago
A couple of months ago I knew nothing about electronics, but I have learned a lot. Of course, there is obviously a lot I don't know so I was hoping someone could help me out.

I was hoping to test out my countertop brutus 20 this weekend, but have had issues with my control box. I have followed this diagram.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1423447397.921467.jpg

The pump outlet is working well. The PID is working. The LED light on the on the SSR is lighting when the "out" light on the PID is lit. The problem is that the element never fires. I have checked and double check the wiring. The element heats when I plug it directly into the wall.

Could it be the SSR? Any way I could test it to determine the problem? Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Jesse



Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
your wiring diagram looks correct assuming your PID is like the auber SYL-2342. what type of SSR do you have?

check voltage between neutral (blue) and SSR out+ (at the SSR) when firing and not firing.

check voltage between neutral (blue) and SSR out- (at the SSR) when firing and not firing.
 
Auber's website shows a drastically different wiring diagram for the 2362 vs the 2342. I'm going to assume their website is wrong though since you would be letting the magic purple smoke out if they were right.

Take the measurements I suggested. Might help shed some light on where the problem is. The LED light only means the input side is likely working.
 
Take the measurements I suggested. Might help shed some light on where the problem is. The LED light only means the input side is likely working.

x2 I had an issue with my 120V eRIMs and troubleshooted this way. I realized I had wired a double pole contactor wrong. The output was wired up to the wrong pole on the contactor. Trace your voltage and you'll figure out where the issue is.
 
Put the voltmeter probes on the SSR out screws with the load connected. When the LED is out that should be line voltage. When the LED is on it should be no more than a couple of volts. If it stays at high voltage, or a voltage of more than a couple of volts when the SSR LED is on the SSR is bad.
 
So I finally got around to this. The voltage reads about 118v on both + and - out on the SSR whether the light is lit or not.

Bad ssr? How is auber's return policy?
Sent from my iPad using Home Brew
 
I'm not an electrician but it seems odd that you would have voltage after the SSR. Even if you're getting voltage across the SSR when the PID isn't putting an out signal to the SSR, why isn't the element firing if there is voltage present? What's the voltage on the hot leg of your element receptacle?
 
I'm not an electrician but it seems odd that you would have voltage after the SSR. Even if you're getting voltage across the SSR when the PID isn't putting an out signal to the SSR, why isn't the element firing if there is voltage present? What's the voltage on the hot leg of your element receptacle?

EE here. In this configuration voltage across the SSR output means the SSR is off. If the SSR was on, the voltage at the + terminal would make it to the - terminal and you'd have no voltage.
 
EE here. In this configuration voltage across the SSR output means the SSR is off. If the SSR was on, the voltage at the + terminal would make it to the - terminal and you'd have no voltage.
An SSR exhibits low impedance when it is gated on and high impedance when it is off. Thus the voltage seen on its output terminals depends on whether the load is connected or not and whether it is gated on or not. With the load unplugged and using a high impedance meter he should expect to see 120 to neutral on both output terminals whether the device is on or off. With the load connected he should expect to see 120 to neutral on one terminal and near 0 to neutral on the other when the device is gated off or failed and near 0 on the other. When the device is gated on (and not failed) he should see 120 on the line side terminal and a volt or two lower on the load side.

The easiest thing to do is as I suggested in #6: put the voltmeter leads across the output with the load connected. When the thing is off or failed you will see line voltage. When it is on you will see a volt or so.
 
An SSR exhibits low impedance when it is gated on and high impedance when it is off. Thus the voltage seen on its output terminals depends on whether the load is connected or not and whether it is gated on or not. With the load unplugged and using a high impedance meter he should expect to see 120 to neutral on both output terminals whether the device is on or off. With the load connected he should expect to see 120 to neutral on one terminal and near 0 to neutral on the other when the device is gated off or failed and near 0 on the other. When the device is gated on (and not failed) he should see 120 on the line side terminal and a volt or two lower on the load side.

The easiest thing to do is as I suggested in #6: put the voltmeter leads across the output with the load connected. When the thing is off or failed you will see line voltage. When it is on you will see a volt or so.

^^^ This is the more thorough answer. I was trying to keep it simple.
 
He couldn't get 120 between SSR+ and SSR- if his switch was off if its wired the way he shows.

I mean the outlet switch where the element is. I wasn't sure if the element was plugged into an extra outlet switch
 
Back
Top