Austin Homebrew's SS Bulkhead review - Igloo mash tun

[nostalgia]

oh please explain why you don't want the PTFE bulkhead?

oh please show me where I said I didn't want it.

I was just looking at other options. Going back and looking at the PTFE one linked, it appears to only be threaded on one side.

-Joe

 

[KYB]

We put together a ball valve setup collecting parts from Home Depot, and honestly I don't know how it doesn't leak. I'm sure it's a matter of time. The one I went to didn't have exactly what I wanted, had to make do with other parts and make it work.

 

[Bobby_M]

It would be really interesting to find what percentage of weldless bulkhead users had:

1. no leaks upon install or over time.
2. early leaks, later fixed.
3. no leaks early, but leaked later.
4. always leaked, gave up.

I'd also break the data between metal vessels and coolers.

 

[Bobby_M]

I created a proper poll thread on this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/weldless-bulkhead-success-rate-poll-107915/

 

[Infidel]

These instructions might help with the installation of the bulkhead. As you can see, there is an o-ring over an area without threads. From the pictures posted earlier in this thread, it would help if the original poster didn't use the thicker washer up against the brass nut, but one of the thinner ones provided. It is not necessary to use all of the washers, they are provided as spacers to make up for people using pots that are extremely thin.
Austin Homebrew provides a product that works for a wide range of applications at a competitive price point. It is easier to provide one product that is adjustable by allowing customers to discard washers if their application does not require them. There is more than one company out there making coolers with removable spigots, and not all of them have the same wall thickness. These will not work with Max-Cool coolers because of the wall thickness at the spigot (I could go on with why a regular cooler would work better than a heavy duty one, and it has nothing to do with the wall thickness where the spigot is removed).
Addressing the description that was something to the effect of "a loose nut on a pipe nipple", the nut should not be loose at all - if it is then the person that put it together (at Austin Homebrew) was ignoring assembly instructions. The stainless pipe nipple is put in a vice with copper jaws and the brass nut is tightened with a large wrench to the point that the threads should be destroyed. The over engagement of the threads deforms the threads on the brass since it is the softer of the two materials. This provides a permanent and leak-proof seal between the nipple and the nut, it also discourages customers from trying to incorrectly assemble the part should they fail to read the instructions.
As far as the issue of the rear o-ring deforming, that is due to over tightening. The larger o-rings are less likely to deform from over tightening than smaller diameter o-ring.

Suggestions on how to build a better homebrew bulkhead? A compression ring (a stainless washer that has the same ID as the OD of the o-ring) that surrounds the o-rings would help prevent over expansion or distortion, but would add a few dollars to the cost. The problem with that is if is used on a small diameter cooler, such as a 5-gallon one it wouldn't work because the edges of the compression ring would hit the wall of the cooler creating problems. Completely unnecessary, but why not... I have also found that using a titanium backing washer to the internal o-ring to be a nice bonus in this situation. Since titanium flexes quite easily it conforms to the inside curve of a round kettle and when removed for cleaning or replacement of o-rings it springs back to its original shape. I'll see if I can find the one I have for a picture... but really, once someone adds all of these options they might as well have paid for a kettle with welded fittings.
If you are simply looking to do this as cheap as possible then a grommet (food grade EPDM) that fits the hole with a tight fitting piece of tube passing through the middle works just fine. It will leak a little and you couldn't put it on a burner. You would need a pinch clamp attached to softer tubing to control the flow rate.

 

[nostalgia]

Thank you for the lengthy reply. If I may talk a bit to your post...

As you can see, there is an o-ring over an area without threads. From the pictures posted earlier in this thread, it would help if the original poster didn't use the thicker washer up against the brass nut, but one of the thinner ones provided.

Not on the inside there isn't. If I use the thick washer and o-ring on the outside like the instructions (which I read, thank you) show, as you can see, there is no area without threads for an o-ring.

Maybe if I use one of the thinner washers as you suggest?

Still nothing. What if I ignore the instructions and don't use an o-ring on the outside?

So close.

It is easier to provide one product that is adjustable by allowing customers to discard washers if their application does not require them.

Understood. Perhaps the instructions should say something about that? The part comes pre-assembled and the instructions show all parts in use, so first time users (like myself, for example) may think there's a reason to use all of the parts.

Addressing the description that was something to the effect of "a loose nut on a pipe nipple"

By "loose nut" I mean a nut that is not secured in any way, like by a second jam nut or solder. Forcing the nut on a tapered pipe thread is not a substitute for this. In fact, the first time I had to take the mess apart because it leaked, the nut fell right off because there's nothing to grab but the nut when loosening the NPT sleeve:

As far as the issue of the rear o-ring deforming, that is due to over tightening. The larger o-rings are less likely to deform from over tightening than smaller diameter o-ring.

You're absolutely right. I overtightened it because I was trying to get the thing to seal after it leaked the first few times I tried it in various configurations. This is the problem I have with this setup - you have to play a game with different thicknesses of washers and o-rings to hit that magic spot where both the o-rings and the tapered pipe threads all seal at once. Read that: a giant pain in the butt.

Suggestions on how to build a better homebrew bulkhead?

Easy. Produce or source a bulkhead fitting like Bobby showed above with 3/8" NPT threads on the inside.

-Joe

 

[nostalgia]

So should I assume my fitting is defective because the "permanent and leak-proof" nut fell off?

And I have to say, telling me to RTFM really rubbed me the wrong way. You posted the sheet with the instructions saying I should follow them, then in your post say I should mix-n-match things and not follow them.

I wrote a PM to Forrest 9 days ago but haven't heard back from him.

I'm trying to be patient and understanding, but I'm really not liking the way this has been handled by AHS's staff. I buy almost exclusively from AHS because I appreciate the support they give the HBT community, but I expect a little respect in return.

-Joe

 

[bad coffee]

Hey, somehow I missed this guy over at McMaster-Carr. 3/8" NPT female threads on both sides and requires a 7/8" hole, which is exactly right for the Igloo.

The only question is the black delrin. Does this description imply it's not food safe? I'll have to call them and find out.



edit: they've also got one in brass, but it requires a 1" hole.

-Joe

I'd go with the nylon one on that page, 3/8" needs a 1" hole. Easy to stretch the hole on a plastic cooler. Easier yet with a unibit.

B

 

[springer]

homebrew heaven sells SS bulk head fittings $26.95

 

[TwoHeadsBrewing]

FWIW, the SS ball valve kit from Bargain Fittings has a machined washer that keeps the silicon O-ring from squishing out. I have a few other weldless fittings including one I made myself and they all leak if you over tighten them. I've found it you really crank down on the fitting from BF it doesn't cause any problems AND makes for a more sturdy feeling ball valve. I'm seriously considering ordering just the nut itself to replace on my other valves. You could always just buy the nut to go with your existing "bulkhead".

 

[nostalgia]

homebrew heaven sells SS bulk head fittings $26.95

GAH! That's exactly what I was hoping to get in the first place. They have one in brass for $10, too. I searched Google for days and didn't find that.

Thanks so much,

-Joe, posting as me for consistency.

 

[diatonic]

Requires drilling a 1.062 hole for proper installation.

I wonder if that will present a problem.

 

[nostalgia]

No reply from Infidel, no reply to my PM to Forrest over a month ago, and AHS customer service doesn't care.

Ah, well. There are plenty of other places to spend my money.

I did finally get the bulkhead to seal, albeit without the "permanent and leak-proof" nut. It took plenty of Teflon tape and patience. At least it was a learning experience.

-Joe

 

[Jonnio]

Joe, I wouldn't write off AHS - I am sure if you had wanted to return the item Forrest would have taken care of you. I have been more than impressed by their customer service when I had issues with orders, so I don't think they have written you off. They are probably just not sure what exactly you are wanting from them since you have kept and are using the item and it is the community "standard" for a bulkhead - for right or wrong.

 

[nostalgia]

Jonnio,

It's not a matter of what I want, it's a matter of how the whole thing was handled.

I wrote an email to customer service saying the item I bought is not what I thought it was and that I felt cheated for being deluded into buying a collection of miscellaneous parts. The answer was two sentences: "Thanks for the feedback. That's called a bulkhead." I wrote an email back trying to explain that a person who doesn't know what "the community standard" for a bulkhead is wouldn't be helped by the description and picture on AHS's website. I did not hear back from tech support after that.

Infidel came into this thread and told me to read the instructions. When I explained that I followed the instructions exactly and showed pictures, I never heard back from him.

I sent a PM directly to Forrest explaining the situation and how I felt, and I never heard back from him.

I guess all I really want is a little understanding and to be treated like my business is valuable.

Instead I've been first made to feel like an idiot - because obviously I should have known that what I was buying was a collection of spare parts, since that's the community standard - and then ignored by the three different channels of communication I had with AHS.

Maybe I'm an isolated incident and everyone else has had great service from AHS; that's great. I'm not trying to change anyone else's opinion, just sharing my own experience.

-Joe