Auber Temp probe not being detected by EZ Boil

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logdrum

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Hello. Title pretty much says it all-My EZ Boil controller gives me an "ORAL 932" error code with the probe installed. I've checked the connections & everything is tight & right (I've been using this system for over a year) but after yesterdays brew, it just keeps flashing the code. Is the probe bad? Cable? Any way of figuring out which? Thanks!
 
You should ask auber customer service. They get back to you fairly quickly and are very helpful.
Had lots of questions wtih my build. Haha
 
Thanks for the replies! I have an electrician at work who’ll be able to do the testing.
 
Here’s a couple shots of the components:

IMG_3580.JPG
IMG_3582.JPG
IMG_3583.JPG
IMG_3584.JPG
 
Hello. Title pretty much says it all-My EZ Boil controller gives me an "ORAL 932" error code with the probe installed. I've checked the connections & everything is tight & right (I've been using this system for over a year) but after yesterdays brew, it just keeps flashing the code. Is the probe bad? Cable? Any way of figuring out which? Thanks!
my money is on a damaged cable if it just stopped working one day... Ive seen it happen many times myself. the wires in those cables are thinner than human hairs. You can also just check continuity in the wires for shorts as well.
I prefer the telfon rtd cables myself as they seem to hold up best but im not sure is auber sells them or not.
you can get them here as well (they are from the same DTC manufacturer as auber sells and 100% compatible as I use them with my ezboil).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Detachable...915583?hash=item2811e50cff:g:HZYAAOSwgKBaxe99
 
Last edited:
I’m not an expert but:
Maybe it’s electromagnetic interference due to the proximity to the high voltage lines. It might be best to insulate the probe wires, lengthen then and run them away from high voltages.
 
well I JUST went through this same thing, but with BIAB control panel. I had another temp probe sent to me and that did not fix it. You have to do a resistance check between the pins at the temp probe. You should get resistance between pins 1 and 2; 3 and 2; and nothing between 1 and 3. I'm not at the house so the pin numbers my be off, but what you are trying to find out is what pins are + and which is -. you should have two positive and one negative. Once you figure that out, you will need to see how the wires on the plug match to the pins. I had to pull the sheathing back enough to see what color wire plugged into what pin. Plug your wire going to from your temp probe to your control box and test the two red and one white wire at PID, you must disconnect the wires for the test. The wires SHOULD match the pins on the temp prob if not the wires do not match, all you will have to do is re-arrange the wires on the pid to match the temp probe. tOr, you can unsolder the connectors and re-solder them in the correct layout. I apologize it that is confusing.
 
well I JUST went through this same thing, but with BIAB control panel. I had another temp probe sent to me and that did not fix it. You have to do a resistance check between the pins at the temp probe. You should get resistance between pins 1 and 2; 3 and 2; and nothing between 1 and 3. I'm not at the house so the pin numbers my be off, but what you are trying to find out is what pins are + and which is -. you should have two positive and one negative. Once you figure that out, you will need to see how the wires on the plug match to the pins. I had to pull the sheathing back enough to see what color wire plugged into what pin. Plug your wire going to from your temp probe to your control box and test the two red and one white wire at PID, you must disconnect the wires for the test. The wires SHOULD match the pins on the temp prob if not the wires do not match, all you will have to do is re-arrange the wires on the pid to match the temp probe. tOr, you can unsolder the connectors and re-solder them in the correct layout. I apologize it that is confusing.
you may have missed it but the op said hes been using it for a year so it cant be wired incorrectly unless he changed the wiring when it stopped working.
 
augiedoggie is correct! Broken solder joint at the barrel, resoldered & should be good to go! (I’ll have to confirm tonight after work)
IMG_3585.JPG
 
my money is on a damaged cable if it just stopped working one day... Ive seen it happen many times myself. the wires in those cables are thinner than human hairs. You can also just check continuity in the wires for shorts as well.
I prefer the telfon rtd cables myself as they seem to hold up best but im not sure is auber sells them or not.
you can get them here as well (they are from the same DTC manufacturer as auber sells and 100% compatible as I use them with my ezboil).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Detachable...915583?hash=item2811e50cff:g:HZYAAOSwgKBaxe99
I second that. I replaced a cable just recently for the same reason. They are extremely thin wires.
 
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