Attention new all grain brewers!

[KevinW]

DirDirDirty
Below is pretty much what I have. Just about anything else needed you should already have from extract! I would get digital thermometers and do away with the floaters IMHO! If you get your grains milled then you don't need a grainmill! My LHBS mills my grain!

Brew Pot ( 13 gallon )
Propane Burner
Lauter Tun (10+ gallon cooler works great)
Hydrometer and test tube
Plastic Funnel
Strainer
Hop Bags(optional)
Grain Bags
Wort Chiller
Mash paddle is good (wood, metal, plastic)

 

[Mysticmead]

Hey guys, so I've been doing extract brewing for almost two years now I guess and I want to start transitioning to AG. I've skimmed through this thread and searched the forum but I can't find anything in regards to what is actually needed as far as a setup.

I found this on another site:
Brew Pot ( 13 gallon )
Brew Pot ( 5-8 gallon )
Propane Burner, maybe 2
Lauter Tun
Metal Stirring Spoon
Mash Paddle
2 Floating Dairy Thermometers
Hydrometer and test tube
Plastic Funnel
Strainer
Hop Bags(optional)
Grain Bags
Wort Chiller or a big tub of ice

Is that everything I would need that I don't already have in my setup? How big a batch can that brew and would I need larger/different equipment for 10 gallon batches? If I'm looking at purchasing from a site such as midwestsupplies is this something I should look at. Any sites in particular that would be best to order from?

Any help would be much appreciated.

ok... here's my AG setup.

10 gallon boil kettle
big grain bag (home made)
hops bag (home made)
burner and propane tank
mash paddle


I do the BIAB (brew in a bag) method of brewing as well as no-chill I can do 5 gallon batches with no problem. to do 10 gallon batches you need at least a 15 gallon pot.

 

[Jewsh]

Hey guys, so I've been doing extract brewing for almost two years now I guess and I want to start transitioning to AG. I've skimmed through this thread and searched the forum but I can't find anything in regards to what is actually needed as far as a setup.

I found this on another site:
Brew Pot ( 13 gallon )
Brew Pot ( 5-8 gallon )
Propane Burner, maybe 2
Lauter Tun
Metal Stirring Spoon
Mash Paddle
2 Floating Dairy Thermometers
Hydrometer and test tube
Plastic Funnel
Strainer
Hop Bags(optional)
Grain Bags
Wort Chiller or a big tub of ice

Is that everything I would need that I don't already have in my setup? How big a batch can that brew and would I need larger/different equipment for 10 gallon batches? If I'm looking at purchasing from a site such as midwestsupplies is this something I should look at. Any sites in particular that would be best to order from?

Any help would be much appreciated.

I boil in a converted sanke and mash in a 52q igloo ice cube. You can brew in a bag, it works just fine. A nesecity is a large kettle for full volume boils. Depending on batch size will determin your kettle size. but I do 5,8 and 10 gal batches in my kettle. A refractometer is very helpful for seeing if you hit your numbers, instead of drawing a sample and cooling it before using your hydrometer.

 

[tschoolman]

I have the same question as keepthedrive (post #175 back in May) -- my first two batches of all grain have resulted in LOT of thick hazy crap -- what am I doing wrong? Am I not allowing the mash runnings recirculate long enough to clear (no grain chunks, but still hazy)? I can't get it to whirlpool out, it just sits at the bottom of the kettle. I've been dumping the wort through a screen colander, but it seems to only get the hops.

 

[DanPoch]

I have the same question as keepthedrive (post #175 back in May) -- my first two batches of all grain have resulted in LOT of thick hazy crap -- what am I doing wrong? Am I not allowing the mash runnings recirculate long enough to clear (no grain chunks, but still hazy)? I can't get it to whirlpool out, it just sits at the bottom of the kettle. I've been dumping the wort through a screen colander, but it seems to only get the hops.

I've notices this in my first few AG batches also. I decided to not worry about it and add Gelitan (sp) to me secondary as a clarifier. I've ended up with two of the best, and clearest, batches of brew I've ever made. I don't know what causes it, but I don't think it's anything to worry about either.

 

[brettwasbtd]

I've notices this in my first few AG batches also. I decided to not worry about it and add Gelitan (sp) to me secondary as a clarifier. I've ended up with two of the best, and clearest, batches of brew I've ever made. I don't know what causes it, but I don't think it's anything to worry about either.

Are you talking about the protein break? This is normal and fine. If you use a fining agent in the boil, like irish moss or whirlfloc, you will see a lot of the "thick hazy crap" as you call it. Its not gonna hurt, the majority of it will flocculate out in the fermenter and settle to the bottom with the yeast to create the trub. I think it actually can aide the yeast in fermentation? NOt sure about that though. I only use whirfloc, chill my wort pretty quickly and then leave my bottles in the fridge about a week before drinking and I am producing some REAL clear beers!

 

[Justggw]

I just started all grain in January.
I would like to add 2 more bits of advice.
1. Make a wet run with your new equipment.
Go through the pre-boil process using hot water.
Monitor your temps and times. If you run into a problem you haven't wasted grain. This also helps to get the "new" oder out of the tuns.
2. I used about 3 1/2 gallons to approx 10 lbs. of grain. I have found out the higher volume of water will help the mash stay at a more consistent temp.
I have very good efficiency and an excellent final product.

 

[DanPoch]

I just started all grain in January.
I would like to add 2 more bits of advice.
1. Make a wet run with your new equipment.

Congratulations on your AG advancing.

+1 on the wet run. If you're using weedless connections I recommend a water test with each batch, even if you don't disassemble the connections.

 

[dabassy]

First off, new to this forum and I LOVE this site! Great job and great people. The coolest people I know are brewers!

I am getting ready to start my first all grain batch. I am in the process of finsihing building my single tier system, but what I am looking for is a full, but brief PROCESS. Single tier brewing can be tricky, with recirculation and sparging, etc. even though the priciples are the same. It would be great to see a post that very quickly, in bulletized form, show some quick steps, from cracking grain thru kegging, in a single tier system.

Does that make sense? Moving up to a RIMS system from cooking on my stove is spooking me out a bit, but i will keep trying with the help of this awesome forum.

Cheers!

 

[TenaciousBrew]

1. Low efficiency.
I have found that the most common thread here is not using enough water during mashing and sparging. All you need to do is figure 1 to 1 1/4 quarts of water per pound of grain for the mash and about 1/2 gallon of water per pound of grain for sparging.
I think some folks are concerned about too much wort volume when they are figuring how much water to use but if you want decent efficiency you have to use the correct amount of water.
If your brew pot isn't big enough for the volume required you will need to compensate by using more grain and know that your efficiency will be lower. (You will want to use the 1 to 1 1/4 quart per pound of grain for the mash and adjust your sparge water for the volume required)
If you have a large enough brew pot you will need to calculate the boil time so you will have the correct volume when completed. Some high gravity brews can take 2 hours or more to boil down to the correct volume.

So what your saying is that if I want to brew 10 gallons of doppelbock and I use 36 lbs of grain I'll need 27 gallons of Water!!!!!! Which means I'd have to get the 30 gallon kettles.

 

[hank427]

Really helpful. I've done three all grains so far and all three times low efficiency and missing mash temp were the two main problems I had. One question: Do you recommend a certain amount of water to pre-heat the mash tun with? Or does it really vary among brewers? Thanks!

 

[millaj92]

Really helpful. I've done three all grains so far and all three times low efficiency and missing mash temp were the two main problems I had. One question: Do you recommend a certain amount of water to pre-heat the mash tun with? Or does it really vary among brewers? Thanks!

The best thing you can do to hit your temps is to not rush. Dedicate a whole day to brewing and start early, at least until you get your system down and you know it'll only take 6 hours or whatever you end up with. First of all, decide your mash ratio, whether it be 1 quart per pound of grain, 1.5 quarts per pound of grain, or somewhere in between. Heat the liquor to at least 10 degrees over your strike temp, which will be higher than your target mash temp because even if you pre-heat the mash tun, your grain will absorb heat. Pre-heat the mash tun with the total volume of liquor you'll be using to mash. Like I said, at least 10 degrees higher than needed. If you go too hot, it'll just take a few more minutes. It's easier to cool off than to heat up at this point. Throw the hot liquor in, put the lid on (and blanket if you're using one) and let it sit at least 5 minutes, I do 10. After that, check the temp. If it's too high, take the lid off and let it sit until you reach strike temp. Then, quickly dough in while stirring gently, replace the lid and walk away. If you're hitting your strike temp but not maintaining temp, that's a whole 'nother matter!

 

[DrBrewDC]

Here is one for ya'll. I ran into a problem and was unable to brew after I milled the grains. Certainly, the best case scenario is to mash within hours after "cracking", however, how long would it be before it would not be worth the effort? 2 Days? A week?? Two weeks?

 

[Mysticmead]

if kept cool, dry and in an airtight container cracked grains will last several months

 

[DanPoch]

+1

if kept cool, dry and in an airtight container cracked grains will last several months

I did a batch with grains I had milled 3 months prior. Keep 'em in an airtight container in a cool place and you should be fine.

 

[DrBrewDC]

Thank you. ...and if I did not keep it air tight for a week now?

 

[DanPoch]

You're probably still just fine.

Smell the grain and taste a little bit of it. If it smells and tastes fine, you're most likely good to go. I've left my crushed grains in a canning pot with the lid on it (not air tight) for 2 weeks and have been fine. RDWHAHB

 

[millaj92]

Here is one for ya'll. I ran into a problem and was unable to brew after I milled the grains. Certainly, the best case scenario is to mash within hours after "cracking", however, how long would it be before it would not be worth the effort? 2 Days? A week?? Two weeks?

Just from my experience, milled malt starts to have a stale taste after about 7-10 days, even if put into an airtight container. It will still work for the beer, just might taste different. That being said, I've never vacuum sealed it...

 

[slatebrew]

Rich,
Thanks for the info! I am new to AG (and the forum) and have two batches fermenting now - an American Wheat and Pale Ale (both AG kits from Northern Brewer). I followed the recipe instructions to a "T" on both. Water quantity was spot on and my mash temp was also spot on with very little heat loss by the end of the mash.

All that said, both batches appear to be much "watery" than what I would have expected. The taste (and appearance) of both are just very weak. The OG on both was low also.

Pale Ale - OG 1.04
American Wheat - OG 1.031

Any thoughts on what I screwed up??

Thanks!
Mark

 

[DrBrewDC]

I have another question...

To this point I have always brewed from a recipe, however, I am becoming more intrigued to experiment.

Recipes usually give a time frame in which to keep in the primary, i.e. 7-10 days.

My question is: Is the specific gravity used to determine when to transfer to the secondary? Or how about this.... As a rule, when do you transfer to the secondary?

 

[Mysticmead]

I have another question...

To this point I have always brewed from a recipe, however, I am becoming more intrigued to experiment.

Recipes usually give a time frame in which to keep in the primary, i.e. 7-10 days.

My question is: Is the specific gravity used to determine when to transfer to the secondary? Or how about this.... As a rule, when do you transfer to the secondary?

as a rule...I don't secondary. its not really needed. I do primary for 2 weeks at a minimum normally 3-4 weeks in primary

 

[DrBrewDC]

How about from those of you who do rack to a secondary?

 

[Denny]

First, forget about any schedule given in a recipe. The beer makes the schedule, not the recipe or the calendar. Second, most homebrewing experts (Palmer, Zainasheff, White Labs, Wyeast) no longer recommend using a secondary. Just leave the beer in p.
primary for 3-4 weeks. If you;re an AHA member, I can point you to some specific info from Palmer.

 

[DanPoch]

I have another question...

To this point I have always brewed from a recipe, however, I am becoming more intrigued to experiment.

Recipes usually give a time frame in which to keep in the primary, i.e. 7-10 days.

My question is: Is the specific gravity used to determine when to transfer to the secondary? Or how about this.... As a rule, when do you transfer to the secondary?

To answer your question. yes, the SG is used to determine if it's okay to rack to secondary. When SG is nearly at your predicted FG, you can rack.

But as others have mentioned it's not needed. I recently did a double batch and racked half to secondary and kept half in the primary. Now that they are in the keg there is no difference between the two.

 

[DrBrewDC]

I like the idea of not racking to a secondary! Less hassle. More beer!! ...but what the heck am I going to do with these 5 gallon carboys now??

 

[Mysticmead]

I like the idea of not racking to a secondary! Less hassle. More beer!! ...but what the heck am I going to do with these 5 gallon carboys now??

brew lots of 3 gallon batches!!!

 

[DrBrewDC]

hmmm... never thought of that before. in fact, for the length of time it takes to brew (and the fact that brewing is not that high on my wife's list of priorities for me), i was considering going bigger, not smaller.

 

[Mysticmead]

brew a 12 gallon batch, split into 4 carboys.. you could even do yeast experiments. or sell the 5 gallon carboys and use the money to buy grain and hops..

 

[DrBrewDC]

youre a thinker! do you have a homebrew in hand right now??

 

[Mysticmead]

youre a thinker! do you have a homebrew in hand right now??

well.... since I work from home.. my keggerator is within 15 paces