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What's the going rate for a bottle?

I just (today) bought a 125cf bottle for $185, Argon re-fill $36.
Shop around... I heard prices up to $300 for a 125cf bottle.

Be careful if you decide to buy one from an individual. One company told me they will not fill a bottle larger than 80cf unless you have a receipt from the company that sold the bottle.

Ed
 
MenkeMoose,
Do you have .030 tips or remember to get them?
Using an oversize size tip will usually give you problems with the wire not feeding straight out of the gun.
Because your using a different filler wire that you may not have used before I suggest getting your parameters dialed in on some scrap metal before you start your project.
Try to make the joints fit as close as possible. Measure twice, cut once.
If you do happen to have a loose fitting joint, don't try to fill it all up with one big pass. Run a small fast bead on one side of the joint, let it cool. Repeat.
Do this until the weld almost bridges the gap. Then weld a quick pass to join the two sides of the joint. This method will look and work much better than trying to fill a gap like using a caulk gun.

dfma200, thanks for the advice. I have both .035 and .030 tips. I'm using .030 wire in it now. This one's a simple project, no tight tolerances. Since my conical has two flat sides, my plan is to make two upside down T's and connect them at the bottom to keep the weight from forcing them outward. I'll use a couple stainless bolts through the sides of the conical and into the tubes at the top.

Now I just have to hope my steel supplier gets the tube in by tomorrow.

Moose
 
If you attach a regulator to it and it still has pressure then it should still be good.
I've never heard of welding gases having a shelf life.
The only thing I can think of being an issue is if it was stored outside fluctuating from hot and cold. That could cause condensation inside the cylinder and some rusting. Be sure to give the valve a quick open and close to blow out any debris before you attach a regulator to it. Even small particles can cause a regulator to malfunction.

Sorry for the double reply my computer froze and I hit the post button again.
Someone please delete the copy.
 
If you attach a regulator to it and it still has pressure then it should still be good.
I've never heard of Argon having a shelf life.
The only thing I can think of being an issue is if it was stored outside fluctuating from hot and cold. That could cause condensation inside the cylinder and some rusting. Be sure to give the valve a quick open and close to blow out any debris before you attach a regulator to it. Even small particles can cause a regulator to malfunction.
 
Monti, don't mean to call you out but high frequency does not provide the cleaning action while welding aluminum.
It happens during the electrode positive cycle of an AC sine wave.
High frequency is used to initiate the arc, and stabilize it during welding.
Because AC current alternates back and forth from the positive to the negative state at some point the current is at a zero state which causes the arc to become unstable and possibly extinguish during welding.
High frequency overcomes this problem.


You are right.:D


GreenMonti & Tigmaster - thanks for the tips on the Miller HF. I'll do a little more research on the machine itself and see if I can do some test welds with it.

Thanks guys!

Your welcome.

Also, I asked a guy at work today about our welders running a wire unit. He said, it should run a suitcase wire feeder but not the constant current ones. IMO you don't want a suitcase unit.
 
Monti,
I'll give it to you. You do slick work.
I hope no one gets offended by my replies. I, in no way think I'm one of the best welders out there just merely very experienced.
Although I can hang with the best of'em
Tigmaster, you also do very good work. I like to hear that you have that passion I once had. Don't get me wrong I still like what I do, I don't have that fire in me like I used to.
Never settle for the level your at. Always critique your work and think of what you can do next weld to make them all look like their picture perfect.
Also be humble, share your experience with others don't hoard your knowledge.
There's a shortage of welders these days, and with your talent and a good attitude you'll never go without work.
 
Monti,
I'll give it to you. You do slick work.
I hope no one gets offended by my replies. I, in no way think I'm one of the best welders out there just merely very experienced.
Although I can hang with the best of'em
Tigmaster, you also do very good work. I like to hear that you have that passion I once had. Don't get me wrong I still like what I do, I don't have that fire in me like I used to.
Never settle for the level your at. Always critique your work and think of what you can do next weld to make them all look like their picture perfect.
Also be humble, share your experience with others don't hoard your knowledge.
There's a shortage of welders these days, and with your talent and a good attitude you'll never go without work.

I'll drink to that. Cheers:mug:

Thank you for the kind words. I know I'm not offended in any way. In fact, thank you cause, I was under the impression the the newer welder with the option for more or less "cleaning" action. Was controlling the HF. I'm glad that I learned that its in fact adjusting the "time" frame at which you are either + or - on the wave. My old welder is just the plain old 50/50. Good thing I'm anal about cleaning my weld joints.:D
 
I am working on my electric brewery setup and luckily have a nice Lincoln Precision Tig 185. I am getting really good welds on the outsides of my keg, but am still getting a bit of sugaring on the insides. I am backpurging but have not been sealing the purge setup with tape. I was using aluminum foil on the end of the purge can and "crushing" that to form the seal. Definitely better than nothing at all. However, I do have a couple of questions:

1. Are you guys doing multiple passes on the couplings? I tack in 3 spots and then fully weld the coupler in place.

2. Are you guys chamfering your couplers at all? I seem to be also getting some molten filler flowing through to the back side in certain spots. I think my unibit is making some slightly oblong holes that are producing gaps in some spots.
 
I am hopelessly over my head here, but is it possible to do good work with the Lincoln 225? My stepdad has had one of those forever and used it on everything from the earth mover to the rack for his fishing boat. If I can use an analogy, I just need to do some extract brewing and I want a 3 gallon pot to do a partial boil. I'm not after a 30 gal mash tun w/ a RIMS module. Any thoughts?
 
Just looked at my community college to see if there were any Saturday welding classes. They're all Monday-Thursday 3hr classes.... brutal. No thanks.
 
Is this weld ok for my boil kettle or should I take it back and have him try to fill it in???

image.jpg
 
Too bad he didn't hit it with a wire brush while it was still hot... would have cleared up the discoloration. If no leaks, you should be fine for a boil kettle.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Home Brew mobile app
 
Ok, so my brew stand will be my first welding project. Practicing on a bunch of scrap material, and seem to be getting better at laying down a decent bead and getting decent penetration. I keep seeing stuff about how you should bevel the edges that you are welding for a cleaner lower weld bead. Do I really need to grind a bevel on every edge of the tubing that I am welding? Is it more of an asthetics thing than anything? I haven't tried it yet in my practicing, just curious what everyone's thoughts are.

Thanks!
Craig
 
My thoughts: You get better penetration, and should you wish to "dress up" your welds, there is less chance of you "compromising" your welds.

Plus, it's just a good practice in the art of welding.
 
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