Dunkles Weissbier Arkador's Dunkelweizen

[richwh]

I just brewed this last Friday (1.1.16) and I think it's done, but I have never bottled anything after only 8 days, so I'm a bit nervous. Took a gravity reading today and it was 1.000... tasted and smelled great.

 

[Roland_deschain]

I just brewed this last Friday (1.1.16) and I think it's done, but I have never bottled anything after only 8 days, so I'm a bit nervous. Took a gravity reading today and it was 1.000... tasted and smelled great.

I kegged this after 10 days and it was great!

 

[TxBigHops]

Since OP didn't respond, I'll take a shot at putting together an AG recipe. When I originally followed this thread, I was doing extract, but now I'm all grain. So if I were going to brew this, I'd research what makes beer a dunkelweizen. Here's a good article: http://byo.com/hops/item/1964-dunkelweizen-style-profile

This is going to be different, as OPs beer doesn't have any caramel malt, but I'd start here:

Efficiency: 75% (brew house)
Original Gravity: 1.059
Final Gravity: 1.015
ABV (standard): 5.82%
SRM (morey): 14.01

FERMENTABLES:
6 lb - German - Dark Wheat (50%)
3 lb - German - Munich Dark (25%)
2 lb - German - Vienna (16.7%)
1 lb - German - CaraMunich III (8.3%)

This is going to be darker than OPs, but still towards the lighter end of style. If you wanted lighter yet, you could use a lighter wheat or even an American wheat. Dark wheat (or Red wheat as its called at my LHBS) is only 6-8 L. You could also sub some Pilsner in place of some of the Munich, and use a lighter CaraMunich.

Let us know if any of you try to brew this. I will try to slot this in next year, maybe in the spring. My Hefeweizen with Wyeast 3068 turned out great, with low esters when fermented at 62 degrees. I would probably use that yeast and temp again in this recipe. I would also use German hops in place of the Cascade. But use Cascade if you want to get closer to the original recipe.

Edited: Subbed Vienna into the recipe in place of some of the Munich.

I have now scheduled to brew a "new" version of this beer on Saturday Jan 30! I made some mods to my all grain recipe and also decided to bump up the hops a bit. Warning - this is NOT Arkador's dunkelweizen, but instead, my own Arkador inspired version. I'm going to call it Frankenweizen! I will follow up in a few weeks with the results.

Title: Frankenweizen
Author: TxBigHops

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: Dunkles Weissbier
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5.75 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7.5 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.049
Efficiency: 75% (brew house)

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.064
Final Gravity: 1.015
ABV (standard): 6.52%
IBU (tinseth): 36.33
SRM (morey): 17.57

FERMENTABLES:
6 lb - American - Red Wheat (45.3%)
4 lb - German - Munich Dark (30.2%)
2 lb - German - Vienna (15.1%)
1 lb - Belgian - CaraVienne (7.5%)
0.25 lb - German - De-Husked Caraf II (1.9%)

HOPS:
0.5 oz - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 9, Use: First Wort, IBU: 9.07
0.25 oz - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 9, Use: Boil for 60 min, IBU: 7.49
0.25 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 6.9, Use: Boil for 30 min, IBU: 4.41
0.25 oz - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 9, Use: Boil for 30 min, IBU: 5.76
0.5 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 6.9, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 4.16
0.5 oz - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 9, Use: Boil for 10 min, IBU: 5.43
0.75 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 6.9, Use: Whirlpool for 20 min at 175 °F
0.5 oz - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 9, Use: Whirlpool for 20 min at 175 °F
0.5 oz - Centennial, Type: Pellet, AA: 9, Use: Dry Hop for 3 days
0.5 oz - Cascade, Type: Pellet, AA: 6.9, Use: Dry Hop for 3 days

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Temp: 149 F, Time: 60 min
Starting Mash Thickness: 1.25 qt/lb

YEAST:
Fermentis / Safale - English Ale Yeast S-04
Starter: No
Form: Dry
Attenuation (avg): 75%
Flocculation: High
Optimum Temp: 54 - 77 F
Fermentation Temp: 62 F
Pitch Rate: 0.5 (M cells / ml / deg P)


This recipe has been published online at:
http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/317761/frankenweizen

 

[Djkyoni]

So I started this on Saturday used lme and danstar Windsor. The beer went nuts the first two days but yesterday I checked the airlock and it would bubble every 30 seconds or so. This is my first try at something other than a cider so I'm pretty lost. Maybe because the beer used the blowoff to relieve some pressure? Would that also explain why it's starting to clear? Any help would be much appreciated!

 

[TxBigHops]

So I started this on Saturday used lme and danstar Windsor. The beer went nuts the first two days but yesterday I checked the airlock and it would bubble every 30 seconds or so. This is my first try at something other than a cider so I'm pretty lost. Maybe because the beer used the blowoff to relieve some pressure? Would that also explain why it's starting to clear? Any help would be much appreciated!

Every beer ferments differently. I've had some bubble continously for 6-8 days, while others nearly stopped airlock activity after only two days like yours did. Very Important - no airlock activity DOES NOT mean fermentation is complete. Wait at least 5-7 days, make sure krausen has dropped, then take a gravity reading. Then take another reading the next day. If it's the same two days in a row, and it's close to your expected FG, ONLY THEN is it done and ready to bottle. Also, temperature can have a big effect. What temp is the wort and how are you controlling it?

 

[Djkyoni]

Every beer ferments differently. I've had some bubble continously for 6-8 days, while others nearly stopped airlock activity after only two days like yours did. Very Important - no airlock activity DOES NOT mean fermentation is complete. Wait at least 5-7 days, make sure krausen has dropped, then take a gravity reading. Then take another reading the next day. If it's the same two days in a row, and it's close to your expected FG, ONLY THEN is it done and ready to bottle. Also, temperature can have a big effect. What temp is the wort and how are you controlling it?

Well currently it's sitting at 63 f and its in a closet where the temp really doesn't fluctuate too much. Maybe a couple degrees. As far as taking a reading,I don't just stick it into the carboy? Should I get out the siphon and put some into the time?