arduino Keezer-meter project

[krashkropp]

The last board had header pins for Bluetooth and still used the ds18b20 sensor.
I fully populated a new board with a HM-11 bluetooth module and si7021.
The new temp sensor also has an accurate humidity sensor and refreshes much faster.
This will be the first one I mount in my Keezer and intend to have everything functioning except the GUI in a few weeks.
I also changed from 1, 5mm round led to 3 warm white surface mount leds each about as bright as an iphones led.
The code is almost done. I need to make a function to track scale drift. I have an extra PCB of this revision if anyone wants to solder it up and help development. The only issue I know of is the bluetooth needs to be shutdown with a solder blob to upload code since they use the same serial pins. Eventually I will add a MOSFET and have the atmega control this.

 

[krashkropp]

I have this board in my Keezer and have noticed that the fan Is important for temperature measurements. Also that the fan is not powerful enough on 5v it moves air but I don't think more effort would be wasted. I have added a switching boost ic to bring up the 5v rail to 12v and it will supply fans up to .5A but .2-.3 seems plenty. I also added a button to toggle threw the future lcd display. The leds are really bright and work great. I have moved the bluetooth to other pins so usb and bluetooth can both be used. The biggest problem so far is the si7021 onboard temp sensor. I reads high with the location I have mounted it and think the ds18b20 probed sensor will be the better way to read the keezer temp. The last thing I added was pins for a pressure transducer to measure Co2 psi. The current pcb is available from OSH park just search "keezer517rip"
If you want to build Let me know and I will help with what I can.

 

[raysmithtx]

I have ordered the board. Where can I find info on downloading the program you use and instructions on how to put that into the chip on the board?

 

[krashkropp]

I have added some info on my page with A BOM and PCB CAD file. I will try to have The current version of the code on there as well an a day or two. I Will Also try to have some basic instructions for installing the boot loader and firmware.

http://krashkropp.com/bn-beer-homebrew/

 

[raysmithtx]

I have added some info on my page with A BOM and PCB CAD file. I will try to have The current version of the code on there as well an a day or two. I Will Also try to have some basic instructions for installing the boot loader and firmware.

http://krashkropp.com/bn-beer-homebrew/

Perfect. Thank you.

 

[raysmithtx]

The boards arrived yesterday. I'll begin soldering all the components on over the next week or so.

Any updates on posting the source code? Any other tips would also be helpful.

 

[krashkropp]

Nice hope it all goes well. The source code is at the top of this page http://krashkropp.com/bn-beer-homebrew/
For soldering there are some small pins, and a stencil from https://www.oshstencils.com/#%20
helps but costs more money. probably the hardest ic is the usb/UART cp2102n. I prefer solder paste for pcb work. For most of the components I put a dot on the pads and set the part in the paste after all the parts are set you can use a heat gun or toaster oven(don't use the toaster oven for food after or so i'm told.)
When programming use an arduino uno to burn the bootloader(arduino nano) via the pads on the back. That will set the fuses and let you program threw the usb it also makes it use the external crystal instead of the internal. The workaround is to use an existing arduino nano ic. Heat the board up from the bottom with a heat gun and pluck the atmega328p chip off. If you use that chip it will have the bootloader already burned into it. Make sure to download and install the cp2102n driver for your computer so you can load the firmware. Let me know if you run into any problems and ill do my best to help.

On another note I have almost finished the previously mentioned revision with a 12v fan set up. I should have it ordered in a day or two and can make some more progress on the code.
Things to change
-timeout on leds from 10 seconds to 5 min
-ds18b20 to main temp sensor
-add second ds18b20 to outside temp sensor
-si7021 to pcb temp sensor

please let me know any suggestions.

 

[raysmithtx]

Thanks for the information. I hope to start working on this in a week or so. Looking forward to it.

Nice hope it all goes well. The source code is at the top of this page http://krashkropp.com/bn-beer-homebrew/
For soldering there are some small pins, and a stencil from https://www.oshstencils.com/#%20
helps but costs more money. probably the hardest ic is the usb/UART cp2102n. I prefer solder paste for pcb work. For most of the components I put a dot on the pads and set the part in the paste after all the parts are set you can use a heat gun or toaster oven(don't use the toaster oven for food after or so i'm told.)
When programming use an arduino uno to burn the bootloader(arduino nano) via the pads on the back. That will set the fuses and let you program threw the usb it also makes it use the external crystal instead of the internal. The workaround is to use an existing arduino nano ic. Heat the board up from the bottom with a heat gun and pluck the atmega328p chip off. If you use that chip it will have the bootloader already burned into it. Make sure to download and install the cp2102n driver for your computer so you can load the firmware. Let me know if you run into any problems and ill do my best to help.

On another note I have almost finished the previously mentioned revision with a 12v fan set up. I should have it ordered in a day or two and can make some more progress on the code.
Things to change
-timeout on leds from 10 seconds to 5 min
-ds18b20 to main temp sensor
-add second ds18b20 to outside temp sensor
-si7021 to pcb temp sensor

please let me know any suggestions.

 

[Ruvort]

Nice hope it all goes well. The source code is at the top of this page http://krashkropp.com/bn-beer-homebrew/
For soldering there are some small pins, and a stencil from https://www.oshstencils.com/#%20
helps but costs more money. probably the hardest ic is the usb/UART cp2102n. I prefer solder paste for pcb work. For most of the components I put a dot on the pads and set the part in the paste after all the parts are set you can use a heat gun or toaster oven(don't use the toaster oven for food after or so i'm told.)
When programming use an arduino uno to burn the bootloader(arduino nano) via the pads on the back. That will set the fuses and let you program threw the usb it also makes it use the external crystal instead of the internal. The workaround is to use an existing arduino nano ic. Heat the board up from the bottom with a heat gun and pluck the atmega328p chip off. If you use that chip it will have the bootloader already burned into it. Make sure to download and install the cp2102n driver for your computer so you can load the firmware. Let me know if you run into any problems and ill do my best to help.

On another note I have almost finished the previously mentioned revision with a 12v fan set up. I should have it ordered in a day or two and can make some more progress on the code.
Things to change
-timeout on leds from 10 seconds to 5 min
-ds18b20 to main temp sensor
-add second ds18b20 to outside temp sensor
-si7021 to pcb temp sensor

please let me know any suggestions.

Has there been any more progress on this project? I am very interested in it and would love to learn how to implement it in a future build.

 

[krashkropp]

Yes Ruvort I have finished the updates and made samples I had 1 trace on the pcb from the bluetooth that was creating problems for the usb to reset. That has been fixed and I have bought 100 pcb's. After I assemble and test 1 I will have the pcb's for sale on my website krashkropp.com I hope to have that done sometime next week. I have made a lot of progress on the code. The lcd is now functional and the blutooth will alter its settings automatically the first time it runs. It can also save beer names so switching between displays(lcd, windows, bluetooth) will all reflect a change made from 1. The 12v fan works great. I will make a new page on my site when I have it ready with all the details. I plan on selling the pcb's and some parts. If there is enough people who want it fully assembaled I might have a small batch made please let me know if you want one or more and if there are any other questions about the current design.

 

[BeardedBrews]

If there is enough people who want it fully assembaled I might have a small batch made please let me know if you want one or more and if there are any other questions about the current design.

I am absolutely on board for an order, or a pre-order.

For the folks here, krash sent me an early board to play with and it was great. I have to think this will fall into TheBlackBox (http://www.blackboxbrew.com/store/) category with demand exceeding production fairly quickly

 

[krashkropp]

I have tested the batch of pcb's and everything checks out. I have put them up on my site for sale as well as a soldered version. I have put a 2 week lead time on all soldered pcb's as I don't have a lot of time to be making them. http://krashkropp.com/shop/

I have also been working on an Iphone app to make it all look nice.

 

[thekraken]

Subbed.

I'm sorry if this has already been explained but did you have results on the load cell drift concerns from the beginning of the thread?

 

[Bigdaddyale]

bump