Anyone Here Use a Straight Razor

[billtzk]

I've used a straight razor for the past several years. Up until then I used a Gillette Fat Boy, and I still sometimes do if I'm really pressed for time. I like the ritual of stropping and shaving with a straight razor and a mug and brush with high quality shaving cream. It takes a fair amount of practice to get a good shave, but once you get the hang of it, it's the best shave you can get. I look forward to it as part of my daily centering routine. I make time for it, but honestly it doesn't take that much more time than using a double-edge razor.

I have Dovo and Thiers Issard razors of recent manufacture that I mostly use. I have some vintage blades with Solingen steel and Sheffield steel, including one seven day set. I covet a Heribert Wacker and a Mastro Livi, but haven't set aside funds for one yet.

A forum related to straight razors is Straight Razor Place.

Good place to get shaving supplies for straight or double-edge shaving and brushes and exotic shaving soaps is Classic Shaving. That my favorite e-store, by the way.

 

[zoebisch01]

Now you guys have done it. Seriously though, I am really thinking about a double edge safety razor. The fully disposables are trash, you might as well try to shave with sandpaper. The cartridge style razors are convenient, but only really ever give an OK shave and the cartridges are ridiculously expensive (apparently from several sources they seem to be one of the most commonly shoplifted items). 100 blades for probably somewhere between $20 and $30, the razor ~$25 (less expensive). It will easily pay for itself in a few years.

 

[flyangler18]

The cartridge style razors are convenient, but only really ever give an OK shave and the cartridges are ridiculously expensive (apparently from several sources they seem to be one of the most commonly shoplifted items).

I cringe when I see the prices on those things. And they are the suck if you need to shave any measureable amount of facial hair- clog like a mofo.

 

[bradsul]

I'm looking through the online sites now, trying to find a nice little starter kit. Wouldn't mind finding one that comes with the safety razor and maybe some blades and a badger brush, one of those stands would be nice too.

 

[DUCCCC]

I have both a modern Merkur, and an old Gillette, safety razors and I really prefer the old Gillette. The Merkur I have kept in the back of my shaving kit for a while, but I really need to just toss it. the chrome started peeling off the face of it before it was even 6 months old and scratched the hell out of my face.

The Target store near me used to carry Proraso Italian shaving items, including a decent enough boar's hair brush and a pretty good quality soap for a great price, but last time I was in there I didn't see them anymore.

 

[MikeFlynn74]

What is a good price for an entry level straight razor?

 

[bradsul]

What is a good price for an entry level straight razor?

$20-30 seems to be the minimum price point that I've been able to find. That's certainly about the max I want to spend to start. That is buying on eBay so quality is questionable of course. There are some for much less than that but they don't give details about it so I bypassed them.

 

[billtzk]

What is a good price for an entry level straight razor?

This is the first one I bought, and I think it is an excellent razor.

DOVO "Black Star" Pakkawood 5/8

It's a 5/8th hollow ground with a round point, and is probably the easiest to learn to use. Later you might want a 6/8 or 7/8 with a different point. My next razor will be a 6/8 with a spike point, but I don't recommend that to learn with.

You are going to need a strop, a mug and brush, and some soap. The latter three are easy to find anywhere. You can find all of them on the Classic Shaving site too.

Stick with a new Dovo or Theirs Issard for your first razor and avoid the very inexpensive ebay razors. Some of those sold on ebay are poorly made and will not sharpen well. Of course, there are also some very high quality vintage razors sold on ebay. They usually need a good cleaning and sharpening. It's best to study up on the before buying just any razor.

Even though straight razors are factory sharpened, most aren't shave-ready sharp. You need to sharpen your razor before you use it. You can have it sent to someone who knows how to do this properly, then you'll be able to keep it sharp for a long time with just the strop. I recommend this approach for your first straight razor. You can find someone on The Straight Razor Place forum. But eventually you are going to want to buy a couple of sharpening stones of the right sort for razors and learn the technique yourself.

Buy this DVD. It'll teach you how to shave properly, how to strop, and how to sharpen a razor. It's well worth $20, and will greatly speed your learning process.


Lynn Abrams "World of Straight Razor Shaving"

There is a short early version of the above on YouTube. It only covers shaving and doesn't deal with sharpening or some of the other material on the DVD.

 

[billtzk]

$20-30 seems to be the minimum price point that I've been able to find. That's certainly about the max I want to spend to start. That is buying on eBay so quality is questionable of course. There are some for much less than that but they don't give details about it so I bypassed them.

Yes, quality of those is questionable. In most cases though it is guaranteed bad. See my previous post for a solid recommendation. It's a bit more money, but you'll have a quality razor that will shave better and be easier to sharpen.

 

[bradsul]

I haven't had time to get a safety razor yet, but I decided to try a wet shave this morning as I was able to get an inexpensive brush, some Proraso shaving soap and a non-alcohol based aftershave.

WOW.

I'm a total convert even after just having used my regular crappy razor. The best thing is it only took about 5 minutes longer than my usual morning routine. And I imagine that it will even out a bit more as I get quicker at making the lather - for which I think I need to find a better mug, the one I used was awkward. I've also read that the badger brushes make the lather much faster so I still plan to get a better brush.

 

[zoebisch01]

I was looking, and now CVS has the cartridges in a plexi case with a button and by it says: "press button and wait for product to dispense". The newest cartridges are around $14 for I think it was a 4 or 6 pack? And to make it worse, they keep phasing out the older models leaving you with the choice of either a complete throw away or a seriously overpriced cartridge style. I am definitely buying a double edged safety.

 

[Donasay]

I haven't had time to get a safety razor yet, but I decided to try a wet shave this morning as I was able to get an inexpensive brush, some Proraso shaving soap and a non-alcohol based aftershave.

WOW.

I'm a total convert even after just having used my regular crappy razor. The best thing is it only took about 5 minutes longer than my usual morning routine. And I imagine that it will even out a bit more as I get quicker at making the lather - for which I think I need to find a better mug, the one I used was awkward. I've also read that the badger brushes make the lather much faster so I still plan to get a better brush.

I use the badger brush, and actually make the lather in my hand as opposed to in the mug. The best part about wet shaving is that the cream is hot as it goes on your face and helps open up the pores, so to me making the cream in the cold ceramic or metal mug or dish seems a little counter intuitive.

Additionally before you shave you want to hold the brush under hot water for a good 30 seconds and get it very very hot and very very wet, really soak that hot water in there. This will help it lather up the shaving soap better and make the shaving cream warm on your skin, again it opens up your pores and gives a better shave.




Oh, and I checked UPS today, and my strop is in Massachusetts, with any luck they will deliver it tomorrow and I can play with my straight razor some time this weekend.

 

[bradsul]

I use the badger brush, and actually make the lather in my hand as opposed to in the mug. The best part about wet shaving is that the cream is hot as it goes on your face and helps open up the pores, so to me making the cream in the cold ceramic or metal mug or dish seems a little counter intuitive.

Additionally before you shave you want to hold the brush under hot water for a good 30 seconds and get it very very hot and very very wet, really soak that hot water in there. This will help it lather up the shaving soap better and make the shaving cream warm on your skin, again it opens up your pores and gives a better shave...

I actually watched some videos last night and didn't use a cold cup. What I did was fill my basin with about 1" or so of really hot water and also filled my mug. I set the mug in the water in the basin and put the brush in the mug to soak while I had a shower. Everything was nice and hot when I started to make my lather.

It was recommended to leave the water in the basin so that you can leave your mug in that keeping it nice and hot. It worked really well, but they cautioned even on the video that the cheap brushes would take longer to build a good lather so I was prepared for that. I think I'm going to hit ebay hard tonight and find a safety razor and badger brush. Fortuitously I only have 1 disposable blade left in my current package and I don't intend to buy any more of them (even if it means not shaving until they get to me).

 

[Donasay]

I actually watched some videos last night and didn't use a cold cup. What I did was fill my basin with about 1" or so of really hot water and also filled my mug. I set the mug in the water in the basin and put the brush in the mug to soak while I had a shower. Everything was nice and hot when I started to make my lather.

It was recommended to leave the water in the basin so that you can leave your mug in that keeping it nice and hot. It worked really well, but they cautioned even on the video that the cheap brushes would take longer to build a good lather so I was prepared for that. I think I'm going to hit ebay hard tonight and find a safety razor and badger brush. Fortuitously I only have 1 disposable blade left in my current package and I don't intend to buy any more of them (even if it means not shaving until they get to me).

Personally I don't think I could buy a used badger brush. I have a standard one now and it is fine, was purchased new, but I would really like to get one made from some silvertipped bristles (the finest quality of bristle), they are like $100 new, so I have been looking at them on e-bay, and all of the used ones I am a little skeptical of, I don't know why. They only touch soap and skin, but I don't think I could just buy a used brush off of e-bay.

 

[bradsul]

Personally I don't think I could buy a used badger brush. I have a standard one now and it is fine, was purchased new, but I would really like to get one made from some silvertipped bristles (the finest quality of bristle), they are like $100 new, so I have been looking at them on e-bay, and all of the used ones I am a little skeptical of, I don't know why. They only touch soap and skin, but I don't think I could just buy a used brush off of e-bay.

I couldn't either, I will be buying from one of the stores for sure.

 

[KopyKat]

I shaved with a straight razor for about 30 years. I purchased two and a strop from a retiring barber. My best one is German silver steel.

The key to not nicking yourself is to have a very sharp high quality razor. For sharpening, I have 3 grades of Arkansas stones and the finest being a black stone which appears to be as slick as glass but will put the final touch on it. If you do not have the stones to get the proper edge on the razor, you can send it out for sharpening. See link below.

Straight Razors - Safety Razors - Wet Shaving & Grooming Supplies

Once the razor is sharp, proper use of a strop will keep it sharp for months for most beards. For those with really tough beards, a hot towel on your face for a couple of minutes will help a lot with shaving and keeping your razor sharp. For those with light beards such as I have, if I shave after I shower I can just lather and shave without the hot towel and it's fine.

I have not found that shaving with a straight razor takes much longer than shaving with a safety razor. In fact, the shaving itself takes about the same amount of time. It is the care of the razor that takes longer. Stropping, making sure it is dry before putting it in its case, and of course sharpening. But then if you are a brewer you are used to taking more time. After all it is much faster to go to the store and buy your beer.

Finally to those that are afraid of cutting yourself when you first try it. I found that it came natural to me. I rarely nicked myself and never have nicked myself the length of the razor. And it was months of shaving before I first nicked myself and this was because I got cocky and let my razor get dull. I have never cut myself when my razor was properly sharpened and honed.

Here is a couple of more sites to check out:

straightrazorplace : Straight Razor Place

preface

 

[stever]

:cross:

 

[billtzk]

For lathering, I use a small stoneware bowl that I can hold easily in my hand. The capacity is about 1.5 cups, I'd guess. I place it and my brush in the basin full of hot water while I shower. Then I drain and refill the basin with fresh hot water, add a bit of shaving cream to my brush, and whip up a nice lather in about 20 or 30 seconds. You don't need a really thick lather, but it does feel nice when it's thick and hot.

Surprisingly, one of the best values in a quality brush I've ever found is from Crabtree & Evelyn. They cater mostly to women, but they do carry men's shaving and grooming products.

The $35 Cream Best Badger Small Shave Brush is made by Edwin Jagger of the UK. There are finer and more expensive brushes to be had, but this one is a really well made brush and a steal for $35.

I bought a really nice strop a couple of years ago from Tony Miller at The Well Shaved Gentleman.

I use the 4000/8000 grit Norton Waterstone for sharpening, which is a rare thing. Your strop will keep a properly sharpened razor sharp for a long time.

 

[Donasay]

For lathering, I use a small stoneware bowl that I can hold easily in my hand. The capacity is about 1.5 cups, I'd guess. I place it and my brush in the basin full of hot water while I shower. Then I drain and refill the basin with fresh hot water, add a bit of shaving cream to my brush, and whip up a nice lather in about 20 or 30 seconds. You don't need a really thick lather, but it does feel nice when it's thick and hot.

Surprisingly, one of the best values in a quality brush I've ever found is from Crabtree & Evelyn. They cater mostly to women, but they do carry men's shaving and grooming products.

The $35 Cream Best Badger Small Shave Brush is made by Edwin Jagger of the UK. There are finer and more expensive brushes to be had, but this one is a really well made brush and a steal for $35.

I bought a really nice strop a couple of years ago from Tony Miller at The Well Shaved Gentleman.

I use the 4000/8000 grit Norton Waterstone for sharpening, which is a rare thing. Your strop will keep a properly sharpened razor sharp for a long time.

See, I don't look forward to learning how to hone one of these things on my own, I have a feeling that it is the kind of thing you really need to learn from someone. If you mess up, bam huge scar on your face, which is why I got one that is pre honed and hopefully I'll be able to keep it sharp using just the strop for about a year before I have to send it to get re-honed by a professional. By that time I should have a couple extra blades in my rotation, so missing it for a week shouldn't be that big of a deal.

 

[flyangler18]

See, I don't look forward to learning how to hone one of these things on my own, I have a feeling that it is the kind of thing you really need to learn from someone.

Look around your area for an old-fashioned barber. My barber has been in business for 35 years, and he taught me proper honing and stropping technique. Like any skill, it just takes practice.

 

[quickerNu]

I have been fed up with the prices of mach 3 and other replacement blades for years now. Never been a huge fan, they always clog up on me. I have thought about straight razors, but thought that was a big step. I saw an infomercial about a sharpening system for disposable blades, but figured it was crap. I didn't even think about the old saftey razors. I think that will be my next step. You guys always have me buying cool new crap!

 

[TwoHeadsBrewing]

I'm intrigued by the straight razor and the old-style safety razors, but my method works pretty well. Just shave at the end of the shower...no soap needed even. I think it must be hot water and steam for the 5-10 minutes prior, but I get a very close shave this way.

 

[billtzk]

West Coast Shaving has the greatest variety of double-edge blades. The Swedish Gillette blades are still the best, IMO. Look for a Gillette Fat Boy on ebay. It's an excellent DE razor. EDIT: Actually, just google it. I see some sites are selling refurbed Fat Boys.

 

[quickerNu]

Okay, stupid question time. I know it is best to shave after shower, but how do y'all deal with mirror fog?

 

[TwoHeadsBrewing]

Okay, stupid question time. I know it is best to shave after shower, but how do y'all deal with mirror fog?

I don't use one! It was a bit nervewracking at first, but you get used to it. Just be careful around the sideburns or you'll go to work with one side an inch higher than the other!

 

[DUCCCC]

West Coast Shaving has the greatest variety of double-edge blades. The Swedish Gillette blades are still the best, IMO. Look for a Gillette Fat Boy on ebay. It's an excellent DE razor. EDIT: Actually, just google it. I see some sites are selling refurbed Fat Boys.

Thanks for the idea to Google that model. Found the Gillette I use while checking out other. I never knew the specifics of it before, just that it was my wife's grandfather's razor and that it worked much better than the Merkur it replaced.

 

[billtzk]

Nice. My brother has a Super Speed that belonged to our Dad.

 

[bradsul]

Okay, stupid question time. I know it is best to shave after shower, but how do y'all deal with mirror fog?

I've always just wiped the mirror down and then opened the bathroom door. In my bathroom this causes the fog to disappear within a minute or so.

 

[bradsul]

West Coast Shaving has the greatest variety of double-edge blades. The Swedish Gillette blades are still the best, IMO. Look for a Gillette Fat Boy on ebay. It's an excellent DE razor. EDIT: Actually, just google it. I see some sites are selling refurbed Fat Boys.

Thanks for the link! I hadn't come across this place yet but I like the prices and they ship USPS so I won't get killed on brokerage fees.

I decided to order the following:
- Merkur Heavy Duty Safety Razor ($29)
- Col Conk Styptic Pencil ($2.25)
- DE Blade Sampler Pack (Standard) ($18)

 

[Donasay]

So my strop came, and I gave my razor a once over. I then proceeded to try it out, just to get the hang of it, I decided to try shaving my arm, the hair literally jumped off of my arm once it was touched by the straight razor. Once I thought I had the hang of it, I decided to take it to my face, and well the shave was amazing.

The one bad thing though is that my left arm is now hairless....