Anyone brewing all wheat beer?

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Electric Brewer

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I read a lot about brewing with wheat. I came up with a recipe.

7# German pale wheat malt
6# flaked wheat
Rested at 104, 124
Mashed at 154 for 2 hours

OG was 1.052
FG 1.014

The beer taste mighty fine and the dry hopping really elevated the taste. The color is also pale just like how I like them.

Someone suggested to put a few pounds of pilsner malt, which I intend to do this weekend. I also read that 6 row could provide a bit more enzymes.

I would like to hear opinions on all wheat beer, experiences etc...

Here's the batch no5, all wheat with saaz and hallertau dry hops.
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No experience whatsoever with all wheat beer, although it looks good. Wheat malt should be able to convert itself and a bit of flaked grain AND you mashed for 2 hours. It might be overkill, but you gave it plenty of time to convert.
But I had to mention the glass you're using: Dieu du ciel! is one of the best!
 
Base wheat malt actually has a prodigious amount of mashing enzymes - typical up around 120 as high as 160 Lintner - and thus can convert a lot of unmalted adjuncts.
I am curious what type of mash tun was used and if the OP used any lautering aids in it, as that grain bill looks particularly gooey :)
I'd use at least a pound of rice hulls and not do anything overt wrt recirculation lest the bed plug itself hard...

Cheers!
 
Quite fond of White IPA. Have had good competition success in this category too.

last one I made was Sabro Citra - blew a 3 gallon keg in just under an hour at Halloween:

BIAB
mash 148 degrees - 1hr
34.8% Pilsner
34.8% White Wheat
30.4% Flaked Wheat
1oz whole cone Cascade mash hop
1oz pellet FW hops
1oz pellet Sabro whirlpool
14g pellet Citra whirlpool
Sigmund Voss Kveik and WLP670 (SaccTois) primary
Ferment 14-21 days at 12 PSI <- I dont temp control - 50-80s depending on garage ambient

spicy and really great citrus fruits

the longer it ferments, it will drop near clear due to the SaccTois, and take on a saison like dryness.
 
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I am curious what type of mash tun was used and if the OP used any lautering aids in it, as that grain bill looks particularly gooey :)
I'd use at least a pound of rice hulls and not do anything overt wrt recirculation lest the bed plug itself hard...

Cheers!

I use an Anvil 10.5 gallon electric kettle with the grain basket, no bag. I milled too fine and had stuck recirculation so I had to paddle the bottom a few times. I'll definitely milled coarser next time. Used one pound rice hulls.
 
Thanks for the confirmation on both counts :)
All-wheat beers are going to be challenging, no doubt about it. I wonder if given you have a grain basket something like a Wilserbag as a liner wouldn't help wrt unsticking the mash if it happens...

Cheers!
 
Wow thanks for the recipe.

What does the pressure fermentation beings to the beer? What do you use? Something like the SS brewtech conicals?
I actually converted all of my 5g ball locks to fermentors. I bent the dip tube about 1" off the bottom of the keg and use a SS braided line as a filter pinched off over the dip tube. Spunding valves relieve pressure.

I serve straight from these. Burst carb 30 PSI for 24 hours at serving temp and then kick it down to serving pressure. 1st 2 pints or so will be hazy and have some scooby snacks (yeast), but then pours generally pretty clear.

no soapy/lipid taste as long as you handle your yeast and know your temp. 0 beers have had an issue with diacetyl.

The PSI - there is a belief that increased head pressure to a certain PSI will offset the phenols and flaws that are associated with an off temp fermentation - this works 1000% in the practice that I use. The caveat being you still cannot subject WLP001 or english yeast ect except for Kveik to the high 80s without some issues.
 
I milled too fine and had stuck recirculation
What is "too fine?"
Wheat malt are small, hard kernels, they need a good crush at a "proper" mill-gap for their size to allow thorough hydration so the enzymes can get to work. I use a 0.025" gap for wheat malt, that's a tad narrower than a regular credit card (~0.034").

As mentioned before, your recipe doesn't contain anything that provides husk material that helps keeping your mash permeable, that's why it plugs up. As @day_trippr said, you need to add rice hulls to make up for that lack. A pound of rice hulls sounds like a good start, you may need even more. [Edit, you do use a pound of rice hulls, per #5]

There's no need for adding barley malts (e.g., Pilsner, 2-row ale malt) if you don't want to and stay strictly with 100% wheat. It's the gooeyness of the mash you need to deal with.

Before the sacch rest (~146-160F), performing a protein rest at 121F or better, a combined protein/beta-glucanase rest at 131F for 10-15' may help reduce the stickiness, as does good and thorough stirring, and often.
 
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I actually noted the OP covered both beta-G and protein rests (look close, it's there) - and good on him/her for that.
May well have saved the batch from a complete "Failure To Lauter" :)

Cheers!
 
I actually noted the OP covered both beta-G and protein rests (look close, it's there) - and good on him/her for that.
May well have saved the batch from a complete "Failure To Lauter" :)
Ah, I now remember reading it before:
Rested at 104, 124

Just by adding the pound of rice hulls, leaving everything else alone, brewing this recipe will be much easier to handle.
 
Disclaimer: Until recently I was doing BIAB so I was not very concerned about using wheat. Honestly it's still harder to brew with wheat even with BIAB as it gets gluey & sticky. However it works :) and allows you try things you won't see often in commercial (small or large) breweries. I will go back to BIAB if/when I brew more all wheat beers.


Two years ago I brewed a "Wheat IPA" that was 96% Wheat (with 4% Biscuit Malt). It turned up pretty good and I became interested in doing other 100% "non-traditional" wheat beers.

In the last year I did:

1. a "Wheat Wine"

That was a disaster :( I scorched and the beer, while looking good, tasted of burn. I keep it for months hoping that burnt taste would eventually fade... and I eventually dumped it :(. I suspect I'll try it again someday...

2. a "100% Wheat IPA"

Closer to the original it was made with 90% Wheat Malt (Pale) and 10% CaraWheat. It ended up quite clear (more than the photo suggest) using US-05 and fined with gelatine. It was a very agreeable beer to drink. Close, without being identical, to the other West Coast IPA.

4d4d5faa739db2db32135d6dc498856a_raw.jpg


3. a "Stout Weizen"

56% Dark Wheat Malt, 15% CaraWheat, 14% Flaked Wheat, 8% Wheat Malt (Pale) and 7% Chocolate Wheat. I used US-05 and gelatine again but the colour remained muddy, looking more like a brown ale. It was an interesting/good beer but not better than any other stout (or porter/brown) I made. Considering it's a bit harder to brew "all wheat" I'm not sure I'll repeat this one.

4bf8918d408d968835c3ec71ceb26de3_raw.jpg
 
I've never brewed with Carawheat. Is it what gives a darker shade to your IPA?

Yes. You don't have a lot of option for caramel/crystal wheat malt - but you can adjust the amount of CaraWheat to get the taste/colour you're looking for.
 
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