Any reason not to use 3-wire dryer cord to element?

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jeffmeh

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So is there any reason that one could not put a standard, 3-pole, flush-mount dryer receptacle in the control panel, and then use a standard, 3-wire dryer cord to power the element (both H-H-N), using the wire and pole normally used for neutral for a ground (to get H-H-G)?

Other than being non-standard, what are the real drawbacks? Wrapping some green electrical tape on each end of the wire that is being used for ground would provide a visible indicator, and if the dryer cable is hard-wired to the element it is not likely that someone is ever going to try to plug it into a H-H-N receptacle.

Given that one can likely get the receptacle and a ten foot dryer cord for under $20, it seems like an attractive option for keeping costs down.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-W...-3-Wire-Non-Grounding-Brown-38B-BOX/203492460

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000R8UA2S/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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I used dryer cords when building my two kettles.

About the only disadvantage with them is they are somewhat stiff compared to SO cord.

I have no regrets using them though. As you mentioned, they can keep costs down on a project.

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I can't remember where I saw it, but somebody used RV sockets and cords which is the same configuration (HHN) for their panel to element connection. You can find some good deals on RV extension cords on eBay and the sheathing should be rated for outdoor use, not to mention its a lot more flexible than dryer cord.
 
No reason not to. I'm doing the same. I'm going to use a receptacle on both the kettle and the box with a male on both sides of the cord. Should make cleaning easy and the party's are cheap.

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No reason not to. I'm doing the same. I'm going to use a receptacle on both the kettle and the box with a male on both sides of the cord. Should make cleaning easy and the party's are cheap.

You should not use a male connection that is "hot" because of the risk of electrocution. A double male cord is not safe.
 
You should not use a male connection that is "hot" because of the risk of electrocution. A double male cord is not safe.

Agreed, it is not safe if it is unplugged from the kettle while still live. There are different levels of safe. Truly safe minimizes hazards while energized. However, if I can make things more convenient while staying in budget I will do it. I can trust myself not to unplug the kettle side first. If it were a permanent install that stays energized I would not do this. The fact is the sub panel is unplugged after every session. I have extra u bolts and pad locks... maybe I'll rig up a safety lock. I don't ever need to clean my hlt so it is hardwired@the hlt with a male plug@the end. Once I have the funds to do my final build it will be CIP, so I'll do away with the plugs all together and hardware everything.

I guess I just like to live dangerously :)

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I like the dryer cord idea, other than the stiffness of the cord --Noticeable when I compare my Petra panel main cable, to the SOOW 10/3-- seems like a great way to shave some costs without sacrificing functionality. Once thing that might be a bit of a hassle is the 90 degree plug on the Petra cable, perhaps you can mount the outlets in the side of the box, rather than the bottom to mitigate this.
 
No technical reason. The 4 wire code is for dryers and ranges. To power equipment, there is no real standard, hence all the different available plugs and receptacles for 220v. Some are more appropriate than others based on conditions. You can get a 3 prong dryer plug and put it on bulk 10/2 dryer cable and be good. Or you can get the heavier jacketed 10/2 or 10/3 cable meant for wet outdoor applications and be even more protected. More important is GFCI protection somewhere on the circuit, inline or on the breaker.


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These type of threads terrify me. Being an Electrical Engineer and Electrical Safety Instructor for over 25 years, I get skittish when people do things like this. I wont state all that is wrong with this idea but PLEASE PLEASE be safe. Ive been to my share of funerals because of shortcuts. If you dont do anything else ditch the double male cord idea.

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Sorry to drag up this thread, but I am wanting to do something like this, if it is an ok idea.

What I want to do is buy 3 dryer cords with plugs already attached, for ease and cost.

One cord from dryer outlet (30 amp) wired to 50 amp spa panel.
One cord from dryer outlet (30 amp) in spa panel then wired to control panel
One cord from dryer outlet (30 amp) in control panel then wired to 4500w element

Does this seem like an ok idea? If not, where did I go wrong?
 
I can't remember where I saw it, but somebody used RV sockets and cords which is the same configuration (HHN) for their panel to element connection. You can find some good deals on RV extension cords on eBay and the sheathing should be rated for outdoor use, not to mention its a lot more flexible than dryer cord.

I built my box with the RV hookup. Both my daughter and son-in-law work for a RV outfit. I plan to take mine with me on beer club outings so that was my hat coulkreason. The RV cords are heavy and about 1" in diameter and heavy. But my electric setup is Mobile! I have about 15-20' of 4 wire 50amp cord that I don't need, it could be had for shipping and a couple of local brews.

One note - it's not really flexible as it's heavy but you can run over it with a snowblower and it won't get hurt. Don't ask.
 
One cord from dryer outlet (30 amp) wired to 50 amp spa panel.
One cord from dryer outlet (30 amp) in spa panel then wired to control panel
One cord from dryer outlet (30 amp) in control panel then wired to 4500w


Nothing wrong, but that dryer cord is not very flexible. IMO you're better off making up a cord for the last leg from some sooj and rated plugs and outlet. Especially if you're going to be unplugging it a lot.
 
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