Any drawbacks to the Bayou Classic SQ-14?

[Catt22]

thanks ... guess im off to the hardware store ...

Any hardware store guy worth anything at all will be able to hook you up in about 90 seconds for a total cost of about 50 cents or less.

 

[DanPoch]

I use one in my garage with the doors open. If you turn it up too high, you can "push" the flames right off the burner. So, you have to throttle it back enough to keep the flames close to the burner.

I noticed the same thing. I had a hard time keeping it adjusted right with the air-vent to keep the flame strong, yet close to the burner. Mind you this was the first time I used it, so tomorrow (second time) perhaps it will be easier.

 

[Catt22]

I noticed the same thing. I had a hard time keeping it adjusted right with the air-vent to keep the flame strong, yet close to the burner. Mind you this was the first time I used it, so tomorrow (second time) perhaps it will be easier.

FWIW, I have noticed that the SQ-14 burns better after it has been running and warmed up for a few minutes and at that point I usually check/re-adjust the air damper for an optimum flame.

 

[DanPoch]

Thanks for the tip, Catt.

Personally I'm a little fuzzy on the whole 'optimum flame' thing.
I tried to get the flame to be coming from all of the burner holes and set so it sounded like a propane torch (the kind that used to be used to sweat copper plumbing pipes together). But not so high so the flames come up the sides of the brewing pot. If that makes any sense.

 

[Catt22]

Thanks for the tip, Catt.

Personally I'm a little fuzzy on the whole 'optimum flame' thing.
I tried to get the flame to be coming from all of the burner holes and set so it sounded like a propane torch (the kind that used to be used to sweat copper plumbing pipes together). But not so high so the flames come up the sides of the brewing pot. If that makes any sense.

Generally you want the flame to be mostly blue with only a little yellow showing at the tips. By 'optimum flame", I mean regulating the air/fuel mixture for the cleanest burn. Only you can decide how high to run the burner and that will, in turn, depend on what you are doing with the burner. It will be much different direct firing a mash tun vs heating the sparge water. Hope that lessens the confusion some.

 

[DanPoch]

Yes, thank you again. That does lessen my confusion.

When I started this hobby so many years ago I never though I would have to learn so much about so many different thing. I am loving it!

 

[devils4ever]

FWIW, I have noticed that the SQ-14 burns better after it has been running and warmed up for a few minutes and at that point I usually check/re-adjust the air damper for an optimum flame.

I think the issue is that there isn't enough jets for the propane pressure. So, the flames gets pushed off the burner. I think if there were more jets, it would be able to handle the pressure and the flames would not jump off the burner. You just need to lower the pressure. Even with this, I'm still pleased with this for the price.

 

[cincybrewer]

I love mine...once I got the correct screw.

 

[UnderDogs]

I've used it since day 1 and if anything ever went wrong with it I would buy another but I don't see that happening. It's very easy to hook up to the propane tank and controlling the temp is a piece of cake. I use a 10 gallon Bayou kettle and it fits with room to spare. I would recommend the SQ-14 to anyone.

 

[Tuggy]

I picked up the King Kooker at our local "farm & fleet" today.

It's 38K BTUs which is plenty. It got my 7 gallon to a boil in 17 min. The thing that I like about this option is that it comes with it's own stock pot. It's also very solid. It also has a wind gaurd with the Bayou is lacking.

For 49.99 I got a great burner and a back up pot (and all the turkey frying utensils).

The model number that I got was "King Kooker 1266"

I have no complaints


http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6934920&CatId=4575

 

[shmEk]

My thanks to you all are here - 'cause I was buzzing this thread lots, and picked up much great info here as well =)

Btw... I never saw a part number listed but here is the Gas Vent Thimble (Lowe's) referred to earlier in the thread if you liked that way of doing a windshield.

 

[masonsjax]

The part in that link is only 3". I think you'll need something a little bigger than that. Does it come in bigger sizes? I have a roll of (10" I think) aluminum flashing from the roofing dept of HD that I keep meaning to make a wind shield out of. It's pretty flexible and easy to work with.

 

[shmEk]

Ya, i wasn't sure about that 3" thing as well, but the actual website description differs so I'm not totally sure.

Here's what the description says: Wall Thimble adjusts from 4 1/8" to 7" to fit the thickness of the wall. I don't know what kind of adjusting they are talking about without getting it in my hands. That is the only one I could find on the website that looks the same (and I like the style of it), and I couldn't find the same thing at home depot at all, though I did find some parts that would work as others have used.

Once my sq14 arrives, I'll take it down there with me and see if this part works or not. I've got 4-7 days left counting down on the burner getting here.

 

[rico567]

I have used the SQ-14 for 2.5 years with my 30 qt. SS pot to do full 6.5 gal boils. It's almost perfectly suited for this job. The height is not an issue for me, as I use buckets to ferment. After chilling, I just pour into the bucket, oxygenate, pitch, and seal up the bucket.

 

[mmonacel]

Here are two links from Amazon that might work. The 6" one looks most promising price-wise (the other has ridiculous shipping costs) but I'd need to remeasure. I roughly measured the burner on mine and it was almost a 6" diameter exactly. Any (health) concerns about high temperature and galvanized steel? I'd be very interested to see the OP's experience so far with it...

http://www.amazon.com/Selkirk-Thimble-187706-Chimney-Fittings/dp/B0045LU2RQ/ref=sr_1_66?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1310928833&sr=1-66

http://www.amazon.com/Selkirk-Thimble-187706-Chimney-Fittings/dp/B0045LU2RQ/ref=sr_1_66?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1310928833&sr=1-66

 

[mmonacel]

Also seems that galvanized ducting might work just fine. Just would need to cut it down to size. A 10" like this might provide enough of a wind screen (esp. with a pot on top) while also allowing plenty of air flow beneath as well as keeping a good distance from the flames itself. A 12" might be even better.

10" galvanized ducting / pipe from Lowes

 

[Coldies]

I would be carefull using galvanized steel that close to a flame. It will vent off toxic fumes when heated. I know its a big no no when welding it, but maybe you will be okay since its not getting direct heat.

Just throwing it out there.

 

[mmonacel]

Yeah - trying to find the balance between the toxicity of aluminum flashing / galvanized steel (and proximity to the flame) and going all out bling with stainless and figuring out how to I'm going to get someone to weld it. Jerry-rigging (sp?) a wind-block with aluminum foil or random parts on hand is getting old and I'm looking for a more permanent solution.