To be honest, just get it clean, give it a sniff test afterwards to be sure it doesn't smell like oil, metal or cleaner, and then go for it. I wouldn't get too wrapped up about BKF vs PBW vs. etc. Clean it, and go.
tsp will for sure kill the grease just make sure you wash it out real good with some dish soap afterwards.thanks, I also have some TSP cleaner left over from cleaning my SS Brewbucket, would that suffice in place of barkeepers?
Trying to limit my time in stores bc of covid, so would like to use what I have on hand.
Sorry, never used TSP, so not sure. Hopefully someone else can chime in.thanks, I also have some TSP cleaner left over from cleaning my SS Brewbucket, would that suffice in place of barkeepers?
Trying to limit my time in stores bc of covid, so would like to use what I have on hand.
Definitely provide some photos when you get it all together and going. Always interested in the mods people are choosing to use on these all-in-ones. Id say that as long as the false bottom clears the top of the dip tube nut, you are good to go. This may actually be a tiny bit higher than the malt-pipe since the malt-pipe has a smaller diameter, it only needs to clear the dip tube itself. With my bent legs, it barely clears the nut closest to the kettle that the dip tube is connected to.I think folks are probably right about the false bottom being unnecessary with a quality brew bag. I got one, anyway, just in case. I ended up drilling holes in the legs (brewzilla false bottom) and got some u bolts (304 stainless). I’ll take some photos, and go through my process, if anyone is interested. My goal was to lift it as high as the bottom of the malt pipe.
Are you saying your grain bed floats? Is this common? I have never had this happen even over many years using a cooler mlt.
I brewed a Session IPA yesterday with a recipe that called for 9.5 pounds of grains. So far, I've been going by the Foundry's user manual's chart for the "5 gallon Sparge method at 240 volts." The chart for 9.5 lbs of grain, calls for 6.2 gallons of strike water and 1 gallon sparge. This just looked like way too much water once I mashed-in the grains. Nothing like the consistency I've seen in the past when following the chart for 11 lbs of grains. However, the recipe says OG should have been 1047 and I hit 1052, so I guess it went OK? I'm kind of confused about the Foundry manual's chart because everything I've read says to use ~1.25 qts of water per lb of grain. Why so much more with the Foundry?
To be honest, just get it clean, give it a sniff test afterwards to be sure it doesn't smell like oil, metal or cleaner, and then go for it. I wouldn't get too wrapped up about BKF vs PBW vs. etc. Clean it, and go.
What would you have done different? It looks like a pretty good idea. I assume those are U-bolts used for an antenna?So here is my take on the brewzilla false bottom mod. I drilled out 1/4 in holes for the u bolts. If this interests anyone, let me know. I can give parts lists, steps, and what I would do different if I were to do it again. What I like about it is you can adjust the height to where you want it.
View attachment 714303
I would have gone with smaller u bolts, I think. If you can see, the bolts are too close to the edge of the feet keeping them from fully coming together. It’s actually not that big a deal because the fit is so tight it stays into place unless you put a bit of force on it. I went with 1/4 inch because I wanted it to be able to handle as much weight as possible but even the smaller sized can hold way more than whatever grain we could throw at it.What would you have done different? It looks like a pretty good idea. I assume those are U-bolts used for an antenna?
What diameter U-bolt did you get? Or what is the length of the bottom of the leg on the false bottom?I would have gone with smaller u bolts, I think. If you can see, the bolts are too close to the edge of the feet keeping them from fully coming together. It’s actually not that big a deal because the fit is so tight it stays into place unless you put a bit of force on it. I went with 1/4 inch because I wanted it to be able to handle as much weight as possible but even the smaller sized can hold way more than whatever grain we could throw at it.
The u bolts are the 304 stainless from the hardware store. Keep in mind, that unless it says “304 stainless” it is not 304 stainless. So I had to order some extra hex nuts from Amazon that specifically states they are 304 stainless.
The pump is a good pump. You get it and hoses for $100 so you can't beat that. At some point I'd like to upgrade to a Riptide but for now, I'm happy with the Anvil pump.I'm thinking about buying the anvil with 10% off going on right now. My question is, should I get the pump with it or use another pump? How do you flow control with the pump? I see you can use flow reducers on the line. Do those come with it if you don't get the pump? Thanks.
I realize this post has many pages but earlier I posted my solution (see below) but many have just used a SS bolt and two nuts to accomplish this:What would you have done different? It looks like a pretty good idea. I assume those are U-bolts used for an antenna?
My decision ultimately came down to adjustability and materials.I realize this post has many pages but earlier I posted my solution (see below) but many have just used a SS bolt and two nuts to accomplish this:
Where do you see the 10% off? I looked at morebeer and also the anvil site and did not see itI'm thinking about buying the anvil with 10% off going on right now. My question is, should I get the pump with it or use another pump? How do you flow control with the pump? I see you can use flow reducers on the line. Do those come with it if you don't get the pump? Thanks.
Try Dawn dish washing soap to get rid of oil film and oil scent.
Thanks for the information. I went with the anvil and the riptide pump.The pump is a good pump. You get it and hoses for $100 so you can't beat that. At some point I'd like to upgrade to a Riptide but for now, I'm happy with the Anvil pump.
Might I ask what’s recipe you used? Chimay grand reserve is probably my favorite beer. I did one I am still drinking on but used the monastery yeast. I am curious to try the safe ale 33 because I am a little tired of starters. Every time I use dry yeast I high five myself.View attachment 714985
Chimay double Trappist ale clone. Brewed 12/20 kegged 1/10. Cold crashed Friday. Brought back to 45 Sunday where it will stay until my pale ale is spent. Took a sample today and it hit the mark. It will be interesting to see it condition when it’s moved to the kegerator but I love already. Smooth malty and it came in at a whopping 8.5% ABV with the safe ale 33.
Anvil Foundry is producing some very very good beer (fermentation fridge takes a bow as well. This was my first brew using BrewFather (concurrently with BeerSmith). I like the app.
Might I ask what’s recipe you used? Chimay grand reserve is probably my favorite beer. I did one I am still drinking on but used the monastery yeast. I am curious to try the safe ale 33 because I am a little tired of starters. Every time I use dry yeast I high five myself.
To clear the dip tube and temp probe at the bottom. You could just throw it in there, unlevel, but that would be bad if you are recirculating.What is the reason for raising the height of the Brewzilla false bottom when used in the Anvil Foundry?
I posted this a while ago didn't hear from anyone. Can this be done with the items I've listed from amazon? and do you have to do wiring differently on the plug with the ground and neutral bonded together? Thanks for any help.[/QUOTE]I'm trying to figure out how to make an adapter for my 3 prong dryer to the anvil. I'm checking to see if these items I've linked will work. Thanks.
View attachment 711650
3 prong plug
Leviton 515CV
In-Line User Attachable GFCI
[/QUOTE]I posted this a while ago didn't hear from anyone. Can this be done with the items I've listed from amazon? and do you have to do wiring differently on the plug with the ground and neutral bonded together? Thanks for any help.
I think the valve is a little undersized, perhaps 3/8". Ive seen a few posts on this thread I think where peeps have done this at the valve with 1/2" QD but need a lot of tape to make it work.Hey does anyone know what size of quick disconnect I would need for the valve? Wanting to upgrade but I’m not sure what to measure. Is it a 1/2” female for the foundry side? Also want to add a valve for flow control instead of this clamp thing that sucks. Anyone find a decent one on Amazon or anything? I was thinking of putting one right where the hose disconnects from the valve as well, every time I disconnect it before the boil I get a bunch of hot wort spilling everywhere. Thx
For the spigot- forget what it’s called but it’s some kind of straight thread pipe. Many (including me) wrap it with several layers of Teflon tape and turn a female 1/2” NPT QD onto it.Hey does anyone know what size of quick disconnect I would need for the valve? Wanting to upgrade but I’m not sure what to measure. Is it a 1/2” female for the foundry side? Also want to add a valve for flow control instead of this clamp thing that sucks. Anyone find a decent one on Amazon or anything? I was thinking of putting one right where the hose disconnects from the valve as well, every time I disconnect it before the boil I get a bunch of hot wort spilling everywhere. Thx
Im totally with you on the clamp to control flow. I recently added a ball valve myself to finally, after over 30 brews with the clamp, have an easier way to control flow. In the beginning, the clamp was "ok" but as the more I brewed, I found myself fidgeting with it constantly to get the flow I wanted. After a while it just seemed that the tubing would bulge outside of the clamp. So this is how I configured it. (ball valve was brewers hardware). At about 30 degrees of the valve turning open, I calculated a flow of about 30 seconds per quart equating to 0.5 gal per minute. Very easy to achieve the flow I want without fidgeting with the clamp.Hey does anyone know what size of quick disconnect I would need for the valve? Wanting to upgrade but I’m not sure what to measure. Is it a 1/2” female for the foundry side? Also want to add a valve for flow control instead of this clamp thing that sucks. Anyone find a decent one on Amazon or anything? I was thinking of putting one right where the hose disconnects from the valve as well, every time I disconnect it before the boil I get a bunch of hot wort spilling everywhere. Thx
Enter your email address to join: