ANVIL FOUNDRY ALL-GRAIN BREWING SYSTEM

[cswant88]

Thanks-- that's what I was thinking. Just pondering the benefit of their recirculation kit vs. a "bring your own pump" option, especially since it looks like the recirculation kit is on back-order right now. Seems like it shouldn't be too hard to rig something up with maybe a stainless steel head pump in the same ballpark as the price of the Foundry+recirc.

You can buy the bent tube and screen separately on their website, though I’m sure you can figure something out without them. Bring your own pump and tubing.

 

[Oginme]

Good point.
I failed to realize that both units are equal in kettle diameter so mashing with only 2.5 gallons may be insufficient volume.

Thanks!

I wish I had taken a measurement of the feet on the basket when I was at HBC. I am guessing that it is about 1.5 inches to the bottom of the grain basket. This would put the volume below the mash basket at somewhere around 0.8 gallons. From that, you should be able to get a reasonable estimate of the remaining water versus grain weight to figure out just how low in batch volume you can go.

 

[Spyderbyte07]

I wish I had taken a measurement of the feet on the basket when I was at HBC. I am guessing that it is about 1.5 inches to the bottom of the grain basket. This would put the volume below the mash basket at somewhere around 0.8 gallons. From that, you should be able to get a reasonable estimate of the remaining water versus grain weight to figure out just how low in batch volume you can go.

The legs raise the bottom of the malt tube 2.25". The malt tube has a lip/seam that hangs down 0.5" past the bottom screen, and I didn't take note of whether the legs rest on the slightly raised ring on the bottom of the foundry, but if you only need 2" in the center of the vessel you should be in the clear.

 

[Bubman]

I wish I had taken a measurement of the feet on the basket when I was at HBC. I am guessing that it is about 1.5 inches to the bottom of the grain basket. This would put the volume below the mash basket at somewhere around 0.8 gallons. From that, you should be able to get a reasonable estimate of the remaining water versus grain weight to figure out just how low in batch volume you can go.

Anvil responded that due to loss of efficiency they do not recommend batches less than 2.5 gallons.
Not a deal breaker as I only brew smaller batches once or twice a year.

 

[M54B25]

One additional question: hypothetically speaking, what happens if you switch the unit to 240v and still plug it into a standard 120 outlet?

Will it work normally, just at 120 power levels? Will it try to pull 2800 watts which would be 22amps instead of 11 and (hopefully) trip a circuit breaker? Or would it damage the unit somehow?

Not that I'm planning to do that, just weighing the options of a 240 adapter approach (similar to highland_brewer's) vs. replacing the actual plug.

 

[Bobby J]

Just ordered mine! went for the 10.5 gallon system and am going to build the recirculation pump on my own. Will update with pictures and possibly a video once it comes

 

[Bassman2003]

I put an order in as well but went with the pump. I look forward to the system and hope it lasts a long time. Hope to make some videos after I am comfortable with the setup.

 

[Oginme]

I stopped by my LHBS yesterday to place an order for the 6.5G system. Today I stopped at the local hardware store and picked up the parts needed for the connector cord to go from the Anvil to my 240v outlets.

 

[bleme]

One additional question: hypothetically speaking, what happens if you switch the unit to 240v and still plug it into a standard 120 outlet?

Will it work normally, just at 120 power levels? Will it try to pull 2800 watts which would be 22amps instead of 11 and (hopefully) trip a circuit breaker? Or would it damage the unit somehow?

Not that I'm planning to do that, just weighing the options of a 240 adapter approach (similar to highland_brewer's) vs. replacing the actual plug.

If a 2800w/240v element is plugged straight into a 120v socket, it will run everything at 1/4th power (700 watts). With the way the Foundry only goes from 1600w to 2800w, that tells me that there must be multiple elements in there and some of them stay at 120v even after switching to 240v. It shouldn't blow a breaker though.
.
PS Not sure, but the math works out if there is a 1200w element that runs at 120v all the time and a 1600w element that just runs at 1/4th power (400w) when plugged into 120v.

 

[Kevin79]

Thinking about picking this system up but was wondering if Anvil gives any guidance or if anyone else knows from experience whether a standard 15amp breaker/outlet is enough when running on the standard 120V mode or if it will trip. Is 20amps recommended?

 

[Bobby_M]

Thinking about picking this system up but was wondering if Anvil gives any guidance or if anyone else knows from experience whether a standard 15amp breaker/outlet is enough when running on the standard 120V mode or if it will trip. Is 20amps recommended?

It will run on 15 amps. Its simple math. 1600/120v =13.33333 amps.

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

Sometimes a homes voltage is somewhat diminished with respect to the nominal ideal of 120VAC. For the perhaps extreme case of 110 volts, this would be 1600/110 = 14.55 amps.

I believe that a breaker needs some degree of margin, so if that margin is 20%, then 1.2 x 14.55 = 17.46 amps.

Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician.

 

[garrettbuckeye]

I wonder if the lid from something else would fit this. It would be cool if you could buy a fermenter lid and use for kettle sours, or for something like Kveik.

I have an anvil fermenter and a couple SsBrewtech kettles. Wonder if either of those lids would be close to fitting.

 

[ba-brewer]

Sometimes a homes voltage is somewhat diminished with respect to the nominal ideal of 120VAC. For the perhaps extreme case of 110 volts, this would be 1600/110 = 14.55 amps.

I believe that a breaker needs some degree of margin, so if that margin is 20%, then 1.2 x 14.55 = 17.46 amps.

Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician.

I am assuming the wattage listed is from a resistive load and based on the nominal lines voltage, so if the voltage drops below 120V so would the current drawn by the device and you would not get the 1600W specified.

 

[Bubman]

Thinking about picking this system up but was wondering if Anvil gives any guidance or if anyone else knows from experience whether a standard 15amp breaker/outlet is enough when running on the standard 120V mode or if it will trip. Is 20amps recommended?

A 15 amp circuit will be sufficient assuming the voltage is 120, now if there are other loads on that circuit you could have issues.

 

[Bobby J]

Well just got my anvil yesterday plugged it all in, cleaned it out, started heating up my sparge water and then I noticed water all over the floor. Where the plastic black ring on the bottom meets the stainless steel it was leaking water like crazy. Ended up with a floor full of water and a disappointing afternoon. Overall thoughts clearly cheap quality...

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

Overall thoughts clearly cheap quality...

Or alternatively, poor quality control and quality commensurate with price. ???

 

[Bobby J]

Or alternatively, poor quality control and quality commensurate with price. ???

I mean honestly I don't think so, because look at the mash and boil and how positive the reviews have been from that. I don't think it is that difficult to build a high quality SS electric all in one brew kettle

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

I mean honestly I don't think so, because look at the mash and boil and how positive the reviews have been from that. I don't think it is that difficult to build a high quality SS electric all in one brew kettle

How close could one come to 'home building' a system such as the one being discussed here with a ballpark $25 PID, a pump, one kettle which slips inside of another kettle, and to which a bunch of small holes can be drilled, an immersion thermostat, and a common brewing appropriate 120 VAC or 240 VAC heating element?

 

[Bobby J]

How close could one come to 'home building' a system such as the one being discussed here with a ballpark $25 PID, a pump, one kettle which slips inside of another kettle, and to which a bunch of small holes can be drilled, and a common brewing appropriate 120 VAC or 240 VAC heating element?

Very good point, I am still a very new homebrewer, and the reason I was leaning towards electric brewing is because I live in an apartment. So I honestly just figured buying something all premade would be easier and cheaper. I am definitely going to take your advice though and return this piece of junk and just build one myself. Any good recommendations on parts or just a general materials/supplies and where to get them. If you don't mind, shoot me a PM.

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

Very good point, I am still a very new homebrewer, and the reason I was leaning towards electric brewing is because I live in an apartment. So I honestly just figured buying something all premade would be easier and cheaper. I am definitely going to take your advice though and return this piece of junk and just build one myself. Any good recommendations on parts or just a general materials/supplies and where to get them. If you don't mind, shoot me a PM.

I'm not an electrician type. I would hope that someone with a better knowledge of PID's would assist both of us here.

 

[BrewDrinkRepeat]

Well just got my anvil yesterday plugged it all in, cleaned it out, started heating up my sparge water and then I noticed water all over the floor. Where the plastic black ring on the bottom meets the stainless steel it was leaking water like crazy. Ended up with a floor full of water and a disappointing afternoon. Overall thoughts clearly cheap quality...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ain-brewing-system.666090/page-3#post-8619106

See this post earlier in the thread... I don't have one of these (yet), so I'm not 100% clear what he had to tighten up, but it sounds like something just came loose.

 

[BrewDrinkRepeat]

For those who have switched to the Foundry from a more traditional brewing setup, how's the quality of the beer? Outside of the normal adjustments you had to make in regards to efficiency, boiloff rate, etc. have you had to jump through any major hoops to maintain the quality of your beers?

 

[Bobby J]

Completed my second brew on this on sunday...after work, which was awesome.

Each brew has taken roughly 4 hours with cleanup. First batch was a NEIPA 12.5lbs overall 70% efficiency. Second brew was a kolsch with 9.25lbs 72% efficiency. I know I can increase those numbers as I was hitting OG but was over on total volume.

Overall super happy with this unit, excited to up it to 240v, I'm still on 120v and have no complaints.

One note the gap on the bulkhead can be a bit if a problem, after cleaning up after the first batch the alignment of the double wall came loose and I didn't notice until I added my strike water for the next brew and it started leaking like crazy out the seams all around the unit. Easy fix though just had to empty, realign, and tighten the bulkhead worked like a charm after that.

View attachment 631764

If you don't mind me asking, what is the "bulk head" that you had to tighten just ran into the same issue.

 

[Bobby J]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...ain-brewing-system.666090/page-3#post-8619106

See this post earlier in the thread... I don't have one of these (yet), so I'm not 100% clear what he had to tighten up, but it sounds like something just came loose.

Thank you! didn't see this

 

[tmendick]

If you don't mind me asking, what is the "bulk head" that you had to tighten just ran into the same issue.

Where your valve connects to your pot, and any other "holes" in the pot.

 

[William2887]

Is the pump needed? Is it recommended? I haven’t brewed an all grain batch yet so I was wondering. I was looking at getting the one designed for 2.5-3 gallons.

 

[Bent-Brewer]

Pumps aren't needed, but can help provide more consistent temperatures while mashing or quicker cooling after the boil. Either of those could be achieved by intermittent stirring for less money (and cleaning of equipment).

 

[BrewDrinkRepeat]

re pumps: can also be used for a more vigorous whirlpool after the boil, and to transfer the wort to your fermenter without lifting / moving the unit to a higher location.

For those of us with bad backs, pumps are an essential part of a brewing system. On my regular propane rig I have two, one March and one Chugger. And I'm planning on buying the Anvil pump for the Foundry as well.

 

[BrewDrinkRepeat]

Just pulled the trigger on the 10.5 gallon version, with the pump / recirc kit.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I completely agree that pumps can certainly help ergonomically to alleviate undo stress to make life easier, but I am curious if anyone here yet has tried to make some wort with the foundry who has NOT recirculated and instead possibly just restirred once every 15-20minutes to help with the temp evenness. One possible benefit of not recirculating would be to allow for a much finer grain crush to help with conversion, but this might likely need a bag added to the malt pipe, but Id be fine with that.

 

[Bassman2003]

I just got mine so I have yet to brew on it but I think a pump is essential for this type of setup. As with all things brewing, you can do a lot of different approaches and be successful to various amounts. Optimal is moving wort through the grain bed imho. Since the recirc kit is very reasonably priced I considered it a good value.

As to the quality of the beer, I see no reason why this system can't make world class wort. In my view, you make wort with your brewing setup and make beer from fermentation onwards. This system is capable of creating very clear wort and with some modification to your approach it can be used for all kinds of brewing styles.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I just got mine so I have yet to brew on it but I think a pump is essential for this type of setup. As with all things brewing, you can do a lot of different approaches and be successful to various amounts. Optimal is moving wort through the grain bed imho. Since the recirc kit is very reasonably priced I considered it a good value.

As to the quality of the beer, I see no reason why this system can't make world class wort. In my view, you make wort with your brewing setup and make beer from fermentation onwards. This system is capable of creating very clear wort and with some modification to your approach it can be used for all kinds of brewing styles.

I couldn't agree more with this. I am starting from scratch and spending more $$ on keezer/fermentation with temp controls for both and this system with the pump appears to be a perfect entry-point for me with what it offers (temp control for mash and hop stands, ability to brew indoors/garage, and easy setup/cleanup). will probably pull the trigger on this myself.

My only hesitation/unknown is that while offering clear wort through recirculation would be minimizing hop debris going into the fermenter as there is no hop screen of sorts. I know that the bulkhead can turn/rotate to minimize this though.

 

[Bassman2003]

Your best defense against trub/hops into the fermenter is cold temps and a rest period before transferring. Basically chill the wort down, let it sit for 15 min and draw from the upper range of the rotated spigot. The colder the wort the more that will settle out. I am going to try to go without hop bags initially, at least with pellets, and see how well it goes.

 

[greyghost]

Just pulled the trigger on the 10.5 gallon version, with the pump / recirc kit.

Me too.

 

[BrewDrinkRepeat]

Just got notified that the Foundry w/ the pump is on backorder... until late October. Grrrrrr....

 

[William2887]

greatfermentations website still had some two days ago. I called them to make sure before I put an order in online. They had both the 10.5 gallon and 6.5 gallon.

 

[Spyderbyte07]

I completely agree that pumps can certainly help ergonomically to alleviate undo stress to make life easier, but I am curious if anyone here yet has tried to make some wort with the foundry who has NOT recirculated and instead possibly just restirred once every 15-20minutes to help with the temp evenness. One possible benefit of not recirculating would be to allow for a much finer grain crush to help with conversion, but this might likely need a bag added to the malt pipe, but Id be fine with that.

I did not recirculate at any point but will look into this for future batches- I was noticed some significant (2-3 degree) temperature stratification during the mash (despite stirring), I had one moment of significant temperature overshoot during the mash (the display read 4 degrees above the set point, which resolved with a hasty stirring), and I suspect chilling will be much faster once I keep the wort moving. My efficiency was a lousy 62% but this was a no sparge with 23% red wheat malt, and I'm starting to suspect the red wheat malt is too small to be milled well at my LHBS. I plan to use only barley for my next batch to explore this variable. My one complaint about the system is it stubbornly displayed 203-205 degrees F during the boil, despite my thermapen confirming a boiling temperature closer to 211. It makes me wonder how much of the 2-3 degree temperature variation I observed during the mash was due to stratification and how much was due to measurement differences.

I found it worked just fine to stir instead of recirculate, but it did require some tending during the mash to keep temperatures even. If all goes according to plan tomorrow I will brew another batch without recirculation, and I may try to keep a temperature probe submerged near the bottom of the mash to investigate thermometer differences vs stratification.

 

[greyghost]

greatfermentations website still had some two days ago. I called them to make sure before I put an order in online. They had both the 10.5 gallon and 6.5 gallon.

Thats where mine is coming from. As of today still in stock

 

[BrewDrinkRepeat]

greatfermentations website still had some two days ago. I called them to make sure before I put an order in online. They had both the 10.5 gallon and 6.5 gallon.

Thanks, I'd found that too... from what I can tell they might be the only place to have any left in-stock.

I placed the order w/ them, and cancelled my order @ MoreBeer. I elected for free shipping, so not sure when it will actually get here. Not that I'm going to have time to brew in the next couple of weeks anyway, sigh...

As an aside, I was and am still a bit annoyed with MoreBeer as their website never said it was out of stock. And as of today it will still let you add it to your cart and checkout... only after you place the order do they alert you via email that the item is backordered until the end of October.