Another newbie with a kegerator

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Frogmanx82

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I picked up a kegerator, a pinlock keg, and a couple CO2 containers. Now all I need is a regulator and some connections for the pinlock right? I have my Captain Hook ESB in secondary so I'd like to keg it next weekend.

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I would replace the beer lines up to the taps. The top of the tower pops straight off, you'll can see threaded nuts inside. Typically need a faucet wrench to get them off. I got mine from Kegconnetion.com, but you can find them elsewhere.
 
I have been reading that the hoses should be a bit longer as well. The guy I bought this from said I should have at least 6 feet of hose, is that right.

Also, the hoses appear crimped on to the connectors, see last pic. Is this usual? Do I need a special tool or clamp for these?
 
Check out what kegconnection.com has or local home brew shop if u have one. Hose clamps will work. As far as length, there are tons of threads on here about the subject. Mine are about 6 feet long and dont seem to have many issues. but others do from what I have read. Just looked at mine. Mine have hose clamps.
 
Definitely replace those beer lines. Those look like MFL (threaded) connections. You don't have to have those. If you get new beer line and want to use hose clamps (which work just fine) then make sure you buy pin lock connectors with barbed connections. If you want to clamp on MFL connections to your new beer line (like what you have now) then make sure you buy pin lock connectors with MFL connections (again, that's the threaded kind).

IMO, hose clamps and barbed connectors are the easiest to work with for initial setup and work just as well as MFL. It's really a matter of personal preference.

Cheers! :mug:
 
Woohoo, got my ESB under 30 pounds of pressure, will knock it down to 12 tomorrow. Plan on drinking some draft beer next weekend when I'll be brewing a nice Nut Brown for the other keg.
 
Looks like your lines have some serious beer stone in them, wonder if the PO ever cleaned them. No worries Beerline is Real cheap....personally I would start with ten foot of line per run. Otherwise nice kegerator.:D
 
Those lines look hideous, so -- as folks have said -- I would replace them first. They ought to be dirt cheap at [Big Box Hardware], your LHBS, or online, so there's no reason not to replace them.

I have 5' lines that came with my tower and I have no issues. But, for the price, why not get longer and shorten if you need to?

Clamps can be had even cheaper at [Big Box Hardware] or even [Slightly Smaller Hardware].

For the love of anything holy, spend a little on the regulator. Stay away from this one from Kegco. I just got it, it's awful. Adjusting is a ***** and turning that knob rips flesh from your fingers. A total nightmare.

That keg looks a little creepy, so you might want to pick up some extra o-rings too.
 
I did replace those lines. Glad i did as it also turned out they were 1/4 inch lines instead of 3/16. Also got 6 feet instead of 5 to help keep foaming issues down. Its all working great though I never go to 30 psi now. That first beer got overcarbed and it took me a week to get it to settle down.
 
I did replace those lines. Glad i did as it also turned out they were 1/4 inch lines instead of 3/16. Also got 6 feet instead of 5 to help keep foaming issues down. Its all working great though I never go to 30 psi now. That first beer got overcarbed and it took me a week to get it to settle down.

Did you shake the keg while under pressure? I never had a problem when carbing at 30 psi for 24-36 hours.
 
I overcarbed when I had 1/4 inch lines 4.75 feet long, and didn't know why. Just ordered 10 foot lines 3/16" ID. Why would a brew store even sell 1/4" lines?
 
spaceyaquarius said:
I overcarbed when I had 1/4 inch lines 4.75 feet long, and didn't know why. Just ordered 10 foot lines 3/16" ID. Why would a brew store even sell 1/4" lines?

Some of us run beer further than 10 feet!
 
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