Another Hydrometer Question...

[RiversC174]

OK, one more, haha. This one is a three parter:

First, is there any other way to determine when fermentation is done besides when, after a few readings, the S.G. becomes constant? I am brewing an Ale with top fermenting yeast at 64 degrees F and I have just been doing a crude calculation of bubbles through the airlock per minute. My brew has been fermenting for about 5 1/2 days and it is down to about 1 bubble every 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. At its peak it was at about 12-13 bpm.

Second, I understand that you know fermentation is done when a couple of successive S.G. readings remain constant, but how do I take a couple of readings without compromising the sterility of my set-up every time I take a reading?

Third, is there any other way of determining roughly what the alcohol content of my brew is without using a hydrometer? I did not take hydrometer readings on this first batch because I didnt have a thief or turkey baster (which I now know to get) so I wont have an O.G. and a F.G. to do the calculation.

I appreciate the help and thanks to eveyone who helped answer my first couple of questions, it really helped clarify things!

 

[Sasquatch]

If you are bubbling, you are fermenting. So, when it stops bubbling, your fermentation is done, and you can let it sit for a few weeks in that state. Don't rush.

Every time you open your beer, you compromise it, for sure. I take readings with a giant 60cc syringe and a straw. Wine thief works well too. Discard samples. What comes out stays out.

Roughly, if two pints of beer make you really drunk, it's pretty strong, and if 4 pints don't make you very drunk, it's pretty weak. Hydrometer at the start and finish is the only way (other than a calculation of fermentables which is in fact do-able depending on what you are brewing) to know what your beer is doing.

 

[Janx]

Dude, take your hydrometer and throw it away in an environmentally friendly way. If you take all those measurements there won't be any beer left to drink.

One week in the primary. Two weeks minimum in the secondary. More is fine and better in the secondary. Bottle it. It really is that easy.

Despite what the books make you think, it's not rocket science, and hydrometers don't impress the chicks

 

[MrSaLTy]

....and hydrometers don't impress the chicks

Really? Dammit. There goes my game plan.

 

[Lou]

and hydrometers don't impress the chicks

maybe you just don't know how to use it correctly........

 

[Ivan Lendl]

OK,

how do I take a couple of readings without compromising the sterility of my set-up every time I take a reading?

its impossible to not compromise the beer by taking hydro readings that way...You can still impress some girls and know your alcohol percent and not compromise anything. Just take a reading before you pitch the yeast (i pour some wort into a pyrex container, then pitch, ) and take one more reading just before you bottle, but just take a reading from the beer thats left in the carboy after racking, beer that is going to be dumped anyway.

you know its done if A. the airlock is not bubbling (less then 1 per min)
b. the beer is clear
c. the beer has been in the secondary for 2 weeks (if at this point its still fermenting then youve got problems)(of course this only works for ales)

 

[Kaiser]

First, is there any other way to determine when fermentation is done besides when, after a few readings, the S.G. becomes constant?

I agree with the others don't worry to much and just wait until the bubbling slowed down significantly.

But yes, there is another way to know if the fermentation is done. It's called a forced ferment test. When you pitch your starter, leave some of it in the starter vessel and add about 1/2 - 1qt of the wort to this vessel. Now aerate well and keep is warm such that the fermentation starts faster. Once it is done fermenting, you can aerate again (to make sure it's not a stuck ferment). But once all the kraeusen is gone, it's done and you can measure the FG of your wort for the specific yeast that you used.

But this is not commonly used for low gravity ales. It is a very useful tool when you have high gravity beers or lagers to know what the FG of the wort will be before the main wort is done fermenting.

I'm currently using this method to be able to rack to a keg for controlled pressure fermentation once the wort gravity is 1.5 P over it's final gravity (5 P, yes there is a lot of body in this beer) . I had to take 2 gravity readings so far, in oder to determine the fermentation rate (currently 1.25 P/day) and predict the time of racking (6.5 P). This procedure is known as Gruenschlauchen (green-racking) by German brewers and is commonly practiced by home and commercial brewers.

But don't worry about this at all. I just posted this as an FIY.

Kai

 

[Beermaker]

maybe you just don't know how to use it correctly........

What if it is really, really BIG?

 

[Sasquatch]

FTR, I agree with Janx. Forget the hydrometer. Watch and listen to your beer. Move with the beer. Be the beer.