Another "help me with my basement Brewery" thread

[phyllobeddo]

During a conversation that my wife and I were having about my brewing of beer the other night, she said that I need to go ahead and install a sink in the basement, one that I had already planned to install, and then also install an induction burner for brewing. I was kinda floored for a second or two while my head spun, but I recovered quickly and told her that I would get right on it! I guess she wants me out of the kitchen!? I know she doesn't like the smell on brewday, but she sure enjoys the beer I've made. I don't want to lose this opportunity to go above and beyond what she is proposing, so I need to act kind of quickly.

I'm not sure that an induction burner is the best route to go, however. I was thinking of maybe a new pot with an element in it instead?? I'll need to get an electrician to install an outlet on that side of the basement either way. Seems that it will need to be a 240v outlet for either a 3500 watt induction burner, or a 5500 watt element.

Currently, I brew 2.5 gallon batches on the stove using BIAB. I mash in a 10 gallon round Igloo cooler. I do have a 7 gallon turkey pot that I can do five gallon batches in, but I have opted for inside brewing to help out in the house. I do mundane tasks like cleaning up and what not while I brew. It's usually chaotic on brewday with me brewing and trying to do 50 other tasks, but it's worked out OK so far. It can be quite exhausting, though.

My goals for the basement brewery at this point would just be five gallon full boil batches (BIAB), and to keep it simple and cost effective. However, I would like to brew all grain without BIAB at some point, probably by the end of next year.

What are some good options for an electric brewery? The more that I read, the more I am overwhelmed. I'm not sure where to start. What I need to do is try and get it planned out soon because I will have an electrician available onsite (on a different project) within a week or two. I could at least get an estimate from him if I had an idea of what type of plug I needed, maybe both a 120 and a 240 in the area that I plan to have the heating element.

Any suggestions or thoughts on the matter are appreciated. In the mean time, I'm reading up on the subject. Thanks!

Again, I'm kinda lost here as to what direction I need to go, but I don't want to waste an opportunity to have an ebrewery in my basement.

 

[cixelsyd]

I am not much help on the electric side of things, though I will say that an induction burner would help out if you ever needed an extra strove to cook things besides beer, say if you are hosting Thanksgiving or something. I would also definitely go 240V, regardless, just so you have capacity if you need to go bigger in the future.

One thing that I would strongly, strongly recommend, since you are looking at adding a sink, be sure to make it a "utility sink" or large laundry basin, something of the size you can wash out fermenters and kegs INSIDE the sink. I would also recommend making sure you have options as far as a sprayer, and a flexible hose rather than a straight faucet.

Things I want to modify about my own basement setup

 

[brewguyver]

Is your laundry downstairs? There's a few good threads about the 3500 watt burner from webrestaurantstore. I'm over engineering a connection that I can do the burner and a pump/rims setup off my dryer outlet. It'd probably be cheaper (and way faster) to have an electrician run a 20A 240 circuit for you.

 

[phyllobeddo]

One thing that I would strongly, strongly recommend, since you are looking at adding a sink, be sure to make it a "utility sink" or large laundry basin, something of the size you can wash out fermenters and kegs INSIDE the sink. I would also recommend making sure you have options as far as a sprayer, and a flexible hose rather than a straight faucet.

Things I want to modify about my own basement setup

Yes, I am planning on putting in a utility sink/tub like the one here.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/MUSTEE-U...ility-Tub-in-White-19F/100030653?N=5yc1vZbqkn

Getting cold water to the utility sink won't be much of a problem, but getting hot water will be. The closest hot water line is much farther. I have a friend at work that's a plumber in a former life, and I will enlist his help for this part of the brewery. Good idea on the flexible hose. I haven't thought about that.

 

[cixelsyd]

Yes, I am planning on putting in a utility sink/tub like the one here.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/MUSTEE-U...ility-Tub-in-White-19F/100030653?N=5yc1vZbqkn

Getting cold water to the utility sink won't be much of a problem, but getting hot water will be. The closest hot water line is much farther. I have a friend at work that's a plumber in a former life, and I will enlist his help for this part of the brewery. Good idea on the flexible hose. I haven't thought about that.

Depending on your budget/what your buddy costs, it may be more economical just to do a point-of-use tankless water heater rather than try to plumb across who knows what. They come in a variety of capacities, and if you are having an electrician over anyway, might be cheaper to have him do another circuit just for the water heater.

 

[phyllobeddo]

Is your laundry downstairs? There's a few good threads about the 3500 watt burner from webrestaurantstore. I'm over engineering a connection that I can do the burner and a pump/rims setup off my dryer outlet. It'd probably be cheaper (and way faster) to have an electrician run a 20A 240 circuit for you.

Nope. Laundry is upstairs next to the kitchen. I think she wants me brewing away from that area....

 

[phyllobeddo]

Depending on your budget/what your buddy costs, it may be more economical just to do a point-of-use tankless water heater rather than try to plumb across who knows what. They come in a variety of capacities, and if you are having an electrician over anyway, might be cheaper to have him do another circuit just for the water heater.

Ah! Interesting idea. That's a great idea if he doesn't think he can plumb the hot water line in. I'll hold on to that idea. Thanks.

 

[jeffmeh]

You will need to figure out ventilation also. Adding a gallon of water or more to the ambient air can get pretty moist.

If you are willing to undertake the project or purchase a panel, an element in a kettle will give you more flexibility and room to grow. Don't undersize the kettle or the element, unless you want to lock yourself into 5 gallon batches. If you start with e-BIAB, then you will want a 15 or 20 gallon kettle anyway to easily accommodate high gravity or larger batches. And you could always plan out a control panel for a 3 kettle e-HERMS, buy the large panel, and just wire the components you need for one element for the initial e-BIAB. Don't forget about the GFCI.

An induction burner is turnkey, but constraining if you have bigger aspirations, lol.

 

[Mike_kever_kombi]

Have you thought about a heat stick? May be cheaper than induction burner. If you are handy you can make one yourself.

And if you are handy, and there is a hot water line somewhere in the basement, you can get yourself a shark bite fitting (T) to tap in to a water line, then use either flow guard gold (glue together pvc water line), or a run of pex. Either option is really easy to work with, if you wdon't with pex, there would be no other cuts, connections, elbows etc, except for at the T and at the faucet, easy peasy, just need to buy the throw away crimp attachment for a few bucks.

If you are only doing 5 gallon batches, you could get away with a Broan economy hood vent and some 4" exhaust ducting.

Get it in now, and upgrade as your addiction grows stronger.

Lastly, if you have a restaurant auction (like rciauctions.com) or a second hand restaurant supply store near, you can pick up a stainless steel sink, and goose neck sprayer for about the same cost as a slop sink.

 

[phyllobeddo]

Great ideas thus far.

I plan to have the brewstation in front of a window that can be cracked for ventilation during boil time. I don't think I need to boil off a gallon or two of water into the basement atmosphere. I try to run a dehumidifier all the time down there as it is. It's not wet or moldy, but I have one so why not use it?

I'm reading up on the subject at work when I'm not busy.

 

[phyllobeddo]

You will need to figure out ventilation also. Adding a gallon of water or more to the ambient air can get pretty moist.

If you are willing to undertake the project or purchase a panel, an element in a kettle will give you more flexibility and room to grow. Don't undersize the kettle or the element, unless you want to lock yourself into 5 gallon batches. If you start with e-BIAB, then you will want a 15 or 20 gallon kettle anyway to easily accommodate high gravity or larger batches. And you could always plan out a control panel for a 3 kettle e-HERMS, buy the large panel, and just wire the components you need for one element for the initial e-BIAB. Don't forget about the GFCI.

An induction burner is turnkey, but constraining if you have bigger aspirations, lol.

I'm hoping I'll be good on ventilation. There's a window right where I plan to build the brewery. A fan in the window during boil time should be good, I would think.

10 gallon batches may not be out of the question. So maybe a 62 quart Bayou Classic with a 5500 watt element? Is that enough power for a good rolling boil?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VXHKMC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RD7MK0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

What about GFCI on a 240v plug? Is that an option? How does that work? I can always ask the electrician, but obviously I need to learn some more.

 

[Roadie]

You can take a look at what we have as it's a pretty common electric brewery setup. To get a step-by-step idea of what's involved take a look at theelectricbrewery.com. I love brewing indoors summer and winter. We typically brew 5 gallon batches but can go up to a 15 gallon batch as long as it's not a huge abv.

We did our own electric/plumbing/tile work and as long as you're careful it's not really that hard and it saves you a ton of $$. I refuse to do drywall so sub'd that out. I've never ran across anyone who said they were sorry they went electric.

 

[Hoppity]

Floor drain would be nice for clean-up. Tile floor too! Design the ultimate set-up on the footprint of the space (fermentation chambers, keezer, hop/yeast fridge, grain storage, etc.) and build one phase at a time as budget permits. See the future and arrive one step at a time. Good luck.

 

[phyllobeddo]

Floor drain would be nice for clean-up. Tile floor too! Design the ultimate set-up on the footprint of the space (fermentation chambers, keezer, hop/yeast fridge, grain storage, etc.) and build one phase at a time as budget permits. See the future and arrive one step at a time. Good luck.

I need a vision!!

 

[phyllobeddo]

You can take a look at what we have as it's a pretty common electric brewery setup. To get a step-by-step idea of what's involved take a look at theelectricbrewery.com. I love brewing indoors summer and winter. We typically brew 5 gallon batches but can go up to a 15 gallon batch as long as it's not a huge abv.

We did our own electric/plumbing/tile work and as long as you're careful it's not really that hard and it saves you a ton of $$. I refuse to do drywall so sub'd that out. I've never ran across anyone who said they were sorry they went electric.

Awesome! I'm off work right now, but will try and read some more tomorrow morning if I'm not busy here at work.

I had not even thought about cooling. I will need to make sure I can get my copper wort chiller hooked up to the sink or maybe run a pump and use ice water in the sink.

 

[Roadie]

I had not even thought about cooling. I will need to make sure I can get my copper wort chiller hooked up to the sink or maybe run a pump and use ice water in the sink.

I ran a dedicated chiller line which works great except that it's inside an exterior wall and last winter when it was -15F the line froze. We chill very quickly using a Duda Diesel B3-36A 40 plate chiller. Never regretted buying that!

 

[augiedoggy]

I also brew with my electric setup in front of a window.... I made a cheap hood out of taped together foam core board and use a dual window fan unit as the exhaust fans... it gets the job done rather well. I also use a duda chiller.. the 20 plate long model though. I do most of my brewing in the winter and I can bring a 5.5gallon batch like the amber ale I did today down to 65 degrees in one pass in under 5 minutes... 70 degrees in 3 minutes... sorry I know the pic doesn't show the hood ...

 

[DoWBrewer]

I built an electric BIAB set-up to brew in my basement in the winter. I use a Bayou Classic 15.5 gallon with and induction burner (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FAD57SC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) and an element (http://www.homebrewstuff.com/2000-w-ss-heat-stick-w-weldless-gasket-kit.html). You can get the burner for less than $60 if you find it on sale. The nice part is you don't need a 240V circuit if you just run these on different circuits. It is an easy and cheap way to do electric brewing.
I haven't had an issue with too much moisture.

 

[augiedoggy]

I built an electric BIAB set-up to brew in my basement in the winter. I use a Bayou Classic 15.5 gallon with and induction burner (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FAD57SC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20) and an element (http://www.homebrewstuff.com/2000-w-ss-heat-stick-w-weldless-gasket-kit.html). You can get the burner for less than $60 if you find it on sale. The nice part is you don't need a 240V circuit if you just run these on different circuits. It is an easy and cheap way to do electric brewing.
I haven't had an issue with too much moisture.

There is always the "tomlinson" 3500w induction setup which is the best value I have seen yet .. a friend just ordered this one for $125 with free shipping... there is a recent thread here about it if you use the search function...

 

[phyllobeddo]

There is always the "tomlinson" 3500w induction setup which is the best value I have seen yet .. a friend just ordered this one for $125 with free shipping... there is a recent thread here about it if you use the search function...

Very tempting! This is the first I've seen about the Tomlinson 3500w. I've seen the Avantco 3500w. This one looks promising, assuming I don't wait too long and it sells out. I'm back at work now and as long as nothing breaks, I'll do some more reading. Thanks.

 

[phyllobeddo]

I talked to my general contractor yesterday and got a rough estimate to add a 220/240 plug and a couple of 110s. I'll have those installed when the electrician comes back to finish up the other work.

I'm thinking of ordering the Tomlinson 3500, and maybe a new pot that's large enough for five gallon boils.

I still have to get the plumbing done as well. The hot water line is closer than I thought, so I'm hoping I can get both hot and cold water to the sink.

 

[phyllobeddo]

After some more reading, it seems that my current brew pot (Tramontina 22.5q) is induction ready according to this thread.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/request-induction-equipment-information-465923/

It's only sized for 2.5/3 gallon sized full boil batches, but I won't need to invest in a new pot just yet. I will want to upgrade to a 10 gallon pot as soon as possible so I can go ahead with five gallon batches, however.

Also, I'm looking at the Avantco 3500w induction burner. There's $43 difference in the price, and the Avantco has more reviews and comments.

 

[phyllobeddo]

You can take a look at what we have as it's a pretty common electric brewery setup. To get a step-by-step idea of what's involved take a look at theelectricbrewery.com. I love brewing indoors summer and winter. We typically brew 5 gallon batches but can go up to a 15 gallon batch as long as it's not a huge abv.

We did our own electric/plumbing/tile work and as long as you're careful it's not really that hard and it saves you a ton of $$. I refuse to do drywall so sub'd that out. I've never ran across anyone who said they were sorry they went electric.

Man, that is bad ass! That looks great! My e-brewery is gonna be ghetto compared to that. haha

 

[phyllobeddo]

Quick update.

I bought the Avantco IC3500. I'm kinda freaking out about what I need in terms of electrical wiring, though. The electrician should be by in a week or two, and I would like to be knowledgeable enough to relay to him what I need done. Maybe he'll understand, but then again, maybe he won't. I understand that I'll need a 240v circuit run to that area for the IC3500. The reading on the interwebs that I've done on this indicates that I need a GFCI breaker as well. How does this part work? Is it wired inline, or is it a receptacle that the IC3500 will plug into or what? What's the added cost? Surely he'll know what I want/need???? Would someone please give me a quick education on this? I feel like such a DA....

 

[Onkel_Udo]

Quick update.

I bought the Avantco IC3500. I'm kinda freaking out about what I need in terms of electrical wiring, though. The electrician should be by in a week or two, and I would like to be knowledgeable enough to relay to him what I need done. Maybe he'll understand, but then again, maybe he won't. I understand that I'll need a 240v circuit run to that area for the IC3500. The reading on the interwebs that I've done on this indicates that I need a GFCI breaker as well. How does this part work? Is it wired inline, or is it a receptacle that the IC3500 will plug into or what? What's the added cost? Surely he'll know what I want/need???? Would someone please give me a quick education on this? I feel like such a DA....

Slow down:

A: do you need 30 Amp or 50 Amp 220V...do not know?

If you do not know have him install a "spa" panel which includes a shutoff and 30 Amp GFCI breaker BUT have him run wire for a 50 Amp load in case you want to upgrade later. (Edit: the spa n=anle needs to output to NEMA 30 amp socket that is current code compliant in your area...which will be 4-prong)

Have him run this plus 2, 3 or 4, 12 gauge 20 amp 110 volt circuits in two separate 4" boxes (Edit: these are know as "handi" boxes but this is a double handi box so may not apply) with two duplex outlets per box.

Finally, INSIST that this is all be run in a 2" or better conduit with two pull strings inside.

Of course, I would just run a 50 Amp sub panel with 8-10 spaces but I am comfortable doing this all myself.

 

[phyllobeddo]

Slow down:

A: do you need 30 Amp or 50 Amp 220V...do not know?

If you do not know have him install a "spa" panel which includes a shutoff and 30 Amp GFCI breaker BUT have him run wire for a 50 Amp load in case you want to upgrade later. (Edit: the spa n=anle needs to output to NEMA 30 amp socket that is current code compliant in your area...which will be 4-prong)

Have him run this plus 2, 3 or 4, 12 gauge 20 amp 110 volt circuits in two separate 4" boxes (Edit: these are know as "handi" boxes but this is a double handi box so may not apply) with two duplex outlets per box.

Finally, INSIST that this is all be run in a 2" or better conduit with two pull strings inside.

Of course, I would just run a 50 Amp sub panel with 8-10 spaces but I am comfortable doing this all myself.

There's already a breaker box in the basement. It feeds a few overhead lights and now feeds two bedrooms. I guess that would be the sub panel, and it has 8 spaces. I think the electrician should be able to run the 240 and a couple of 110s from that box to the area next to the window where I plan to brew.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

There's already a breaker box in the basement. It feeds a few overhead lights and now feeds two bedrooms. I guess that would be the sub panel, and it has 8 spaces. I think the electrician should be able to run the 240 and a couple of 110s from that box to the area next to the window where I plan to brew.

Maybe. If the sub panel has say a 50 amp service from the main panel now and the wire is bare minimum and not in conduit, you might be asking too much of it to handle the existing requirements plus you new ones.

So where is the main panel in reference to where you want the 220V outlet? I am just used to the main panel being in the basement when there is one.

So everything I already said is true but add to that "If he has to pull from the main panel, have him install a sub panel in the brewing area (with the 2" conduit and extra pull strings)."

 

[phyllobeddo]

Maybe. If the sub panel has say a 50 amp service from the main panel now and the wire is bare minimum and not in conduit, you might be asking too much of it to handle the existing requirements plus you new ones.

So where is the main panel in reference to where you want the 220V outlet? I am just used to the main panel being in the basement when there is one.

So everything I already said is true but add to that "If he has to pull from the main panel, have him install a sub panel in the brewing area (with the 2" conduit and extra pull strings)."

It's probably 70 feet or so (rough estimate) from the sub panel to the area that I want the 220 outlet. My general contractor said the panel should be able to handle it, but the electrician won't be here until next week. The electrician's an older guy and supposedly knows his stuff, so we'll see what he says.

From some more reading I've done, it seems that a 20a GFCI would be enough for the 3500w induction burner. But again, I'm electrically stupid.

And I'll definitely be asking about the spa panel with GFCI and wire for a 50a load, because I may want to upgrade to a 4500 or 5500 watt kettle build later on. Thanks so much for the replies and advice. I hope I get all this figured out by the end of next week.

 

[augiedoggy]

Slow down:

A: do you need 30 Amp or 50 Amp 220V...do not know?

If you do not know have him install a "spa" panel which includes a shutoff and 30 Amp GFCI breaker BUT have him run wire for a 50 Amp load in case you want to upgrade later. (Edit: the spa n=anle needs to output to NEMA 30 amp socket that is current code compliant in your area...which will be 4-prong)

Have him run this plus 2, 3 or 4, 12 gauge 20 amp 110 volt circuits in two separate 4" boxes (Edit: these are know as "handi" boxes but this is a double handi box so may not apply) with two duplex outlets per box.

Finally, INSIST that this is all be run in a 2" or better conduit with two pull strings inside.

Of course, I would just run a 50 Amp sub panel with 8-10 spaces but I am comfortable doing this all myself.

he needs 15 amps actually (these units are really only about 3000w and draw about 13-14 amps)... unless hes running multiple units...a 20a line would be cheap and easy to run with 12gauge wire...

 

[Onkel_Udo]

he needs 15 amps actually (these units are really only about 3000w and draw about 13-14 amps)... unless hes running multiple units...a 20a line would be cheap and easy to run with 12gauge wire...

For 70' that is likely undersized.

I am 90% sure the NEC forbids sub panels in series so just make sure they either run everything thing you want now, and in the not so distant future, or run it is a conduit of sufficient size to allow for addition pulls of wire at a later date.

If the electrician knows his stuff he will understand the desire for "future-proofing". Just tell him everything you want to run in your realistic dream brewery. Then tell him what you need now which sounds like one 30 Amp 220 line (for the spa panel...not because you need 30 amps) and two 20 amp 110V lines. If I were him i would run three stands of 8 ga copper plus a 10 ga ground for the 220V and 4 strands of 10 ga copper plus two (one if you are on an older code) 12 ga ground in a 2" conduit. This is assuming we really are exceeding 50'.

Both of those gauge suggestions are based of the run distance and assuming for "continuous load" on all circuits. This means it is overkill but not significantly so.

I still go back to "where is the main panel" because at 70' for the run from the sub panel it is hard to imagine you gaining much by coming from a sub panel instead of the main load center.

 

[phyllobeddo]

I still go back to "where is the main panel" because at 70' for the run from the sub panel it is hard to imagine you gaining much by coming from a sub panel instead of the main load center.

The main panel is upstairs, and not extremely far from the sub panel in the basement. I haven't looked at where power comes into the sub panel from.

I talked it over with the electrician and he seems to understand what I need/want. He is pricing a roll of 10 gauge wire, and hasn't done any work on this project yet. I'm hoping he can make one more trip to finish the main project and start and finish this one at the same time on the same day.

 

[phyllobeddo]

I finally got a quote yesterday from the electrician for the job, $435. I don't have the money for that right now, so I told him I'd have to wait. The quote was for installing two 110s (1 GFCI), and a 220 (30amp GFCI). One of the 110s would be installed close to the sub panel, and the other 110 and the 220 are approximately 75 feet from the sub panel. He priced it using 10 gauge wire.

I need to price all this on my own and see what I come up with and get a couple of different quotes.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

I finally got a quote yesterday from the electrician for the job, $435. I don't have the money for that right now, so I told him I'd have to wait. The quote was for installing two 110s (1 GFCI), and a 220 (30amp GFCI). One of the 110s would be installed close to the sub panel, and the other 110 and the 220 are approximately 75 feet from the sub panel. He priced it using 10 gauge wire.

I need to price all this on my own and see what I come up with and get a couple of different quotes.

FYI, that seems very reasonable if it includes everything.

 

[86turbodsl]

I am 90% sure the NEC forbids sub panels in series...<snip>

Not true. You can run a sub panel off a subpanel. I've done it. And passed inspection.

 

[phyllobeddo]

FYI, that seems very reasonable if it includes everything.

It does seem reasonable after looking up a few prices online.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

Not true. You can run a sub panel off a subpanel. I've done it. And passed inspection.

Yeah, that was why I put it at 90%. Do not remember reading the specific code that forbade it, but I thought the bonding requirements made it "frowned upon".

FYI, just because you pass inspect does not mean it meets the letter of the NEC code book. The number of variable or immense from what edition of the code is adopted locally, is it adopted in whole or in part, how knowledgeable the inspector is and is is specifically addressed. Finally, the inspector interpretation of the code comes into play as well.

 

[phyllobeddo]

I guess I could go this route......

10/3 Romex - $98
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-100-ft-10-3-NM-B-Wire-147-1803CR/202206569

12/2 Romex - $44
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-100-ft-12-2-NM-W-G-Cable-Yellow-147-1602CR/202942419

50A Spa Panel $70
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Midwest-...MW250P/100686230?keyword=50+amp+spa+gfi+panel

30A breaker $9
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-30-Amp-Two-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-HOM230CP/202353325

Receptacle $6
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-W...le-with-Side-Wiring-White-1876W-BOX/203492426

Receptacle $15
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...I-Duplex-Outlet-White-R02-N7899-0KW/203427638

$242


or this route.....


10/3 Romex - $98
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-100-ft-10-3-NM-B-Wire-147-1803CR/202206569

12/2 Romex - $44
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-100-ft-12-2-NM-W-G-Cable-Yellow-147-1602CR/202942419

30A GFCI Breaker - $77
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Murray-30-Amp-5-in-Double-Pole-GFCI-Circuit-Breaker-MP230GFP/202315509

Receptacle $6
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-W...le-with-Side-Wiring-White-1876W-BOX/203492426

Receptacle $15
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...I-Duplex-Outlet-White-R02-N7899-0KW/203427638

$240

Not sure I'm comfortable installing all this, however. I may just have to save up the $435 and/or get more quotes. In the mean time, I'll be brewing with my turkey fryer and propane.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

I guess I could go this route......

10/3 Romex - $98
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-100-ft-10-3-NM-B-Wire-147-1803CR/202206569

12/2 Romex - $44
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-100-ft-12-2-NM-W-G-Cable-Yellow-147-1602CR/202942419

50A Spa Panel $70
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Midwest-...MW250P/100686230?keyword=50+amp+spa+gfi+panel

30A breaker $9
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-Homeline-30-Amp-Two-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-HOM230CP/202353325

Receptacle $6
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-W...le-with-Side-Wiring-White-1876W-BOX/203492426

Receptacle $15
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...I-Duplex-Outlet-White-R02-N7899-0KW/203427638

$242


or this route.....


10/3 Romex - $98
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-100-ft-10-3-NM-B-Wire-147-1803CR/202206569

12/2 Romex - $44
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cerrowire-100-ft-12-2-NM-W-G-Cable-Yellow-147-1602CR/202942419

30A GFCI Breaker - $77
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Murray-30-Amp-5-in-Double-Pole-GFCI-Circuit-Breaker-MP230GFP/202315509

Receptacle $6
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Cooper-W...le-with-Side-Wiring-White-1876W-BOX/203492426

Receptacle $15
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...I-Duplex-Outlet-White-R02-N7899-0KW/203427638

$240

Not sure I'm comfortable installing all this, however. I may just have to save up the $435 and/or get more quotes. In the mean time, I'll be brewing with my turkey fryer and propane.

Wire, even hooking it up to the panel, is not hard. Easily and efficiently routing wire can be depending on the construction you are running through.

 

[phyllobeddo]

Wire, even hooking it up to the panel, is not hard. Easily and efficiently routing wire can be depending on the construction you are running through.

The wire run will be in an unfinished basement. I'll just have to grab a ladder and make the run from the sub panel to the spot where the receptacle will be. I'll need a few feet of conduit for the wall run, but if I do it like the rest of the wiring down there, it'll just need to be tacked to the joists and/or run along the outer perimeter. Does that sound about right? Just run it along with the rest of the existing wiring?

 

[Onkel_Udo]

The wire run will be in an unfinished basement. I'll just have to grab a ladder and make the run from the sub panel to the spot where the receptacle will be. I'll need a few feet of conduit for the wall run, but if I do it like the rest of the wiring down there, it'll just need to be tacked to the joists and/or run along the outer perimeter. Does that sound about right? Just run it along with the rest of the existing wiring?

Sounds right. In many jurisdictions NMB cannot be run exposed and unprotected. If the existing is that way, go for it.

Simple plan is run you wire leaving twice the height of you breaker box at the top of the box
Make you terminations (outlets, switches, etc)
Knockout the most convenient holes in the box (assuming the is not a large, partially filled conduit already in place) and run the wire through a clamp and then through the knockout
If you are uncomfortable around the live box, kill the main for the next 15-20 minutes but remember the main lugs are still hot
Strip the outer sheath off the romex in the box
make 180 degree bend at the bottom of the box with the individual wires before figuring out where to cut them off to enter the breaker, neutral bus or ground bus
Strip about 1/2" of the ends of the wires
Neutral and ground go in their bus bars (often the same bar but not if this is a sub panel)...Neutrals go into GFCI breakers and the pigtail on the breaker goes to the neutral bus
Hot(s) go into the breaker(s)
Breaker (s) snap into the panel

Leaving the breakers you added off, turn back on the main power
Turn one break on at a time and use a tester to check the termination
put the cover back on the breaker box