The problem with chalk is that, under normal conditions i.e. where you add it to mash or water (which is effectively the same as adding it to mash as it doesn't dissolve in water), it reacts so slowly that you do not get the proton absorbing effect which you are depending on it to provide when you need it. Thus mash pH is not raised as much as you hope it would be. Much of the chalk you add to mash or water will thus wind up sitting on the grains after sparging but some will make it through into the kettle and into the fermenter where it will continue to react thus raising pH during parts of the process where you want it to be falling. You may argue that this is beneficial as it is finally doing what you added it to do but presumably you added it to control pH in the mash tun and you won't get that effect from it.
There are work-arounds such as dissolving it in acid but you need to be careful that you don't acidify below pH 8.4 (at which pH all the carbonate has been converted to bicarbonate which does react rapidly enough to do what you want to do. One of the acids proposed for this purpose is carbonic acid. To use it the CaCO3 is placed in a pet bottle with water and CO2 injected to raise the pressure to the point where enough H2CO3 is dissolved to, in turn, dissolve the CaCO3. Again the goal is to get the CO3-- converted to HCO3- and the tricky part is that as soon as the pressure is released the HCO3- will convert back to CO3-- and re-precipitate as microcrystals you cannot see and so are lulled into thinking you have dissolved the chalk. And some of is still dissolved. But how much? The problem is that you won't really be able to tell exactly what is going on with this method and you will wind up with CO3-- going forward.
The problem here is a common one in home brewing. Someone who knows enough chemistry to know that CO3-- is basic reasons that it should be able to absorb protons and thus compensate for the use of acidic malts. He doesn't experiment and he doesn't know enough about chemistry to appreciate the kinnetics. He publishes books, nomographs, spreadheets, articles in Zymurgy... and others imitate him and it becomes one of the foundations of home brewing lore that you add chalk to dark beer. Once so established these foundations are hard to eradicate.
If you need to absorb protons (and as has been noted in another thread in this forum that you really shouldn't) you need to use a faster acting base. The obvious one is Sodium Bicarbonate which a lot of people shun because of sodium phobia and, of course, if your source water is rich in sodium this can be a problem. Another base is Ca(OH)2 but I am a little wary of that because I have seen it, in the laboratory, ehibit some strange kinnetics which I don't fully understand at this point. Another candidate is Na2CO3. I'm a little wary of it too because while I suspect that the slow kinnetics with CaCO3 relate to the presence of the Ca++ ion I am not sure that using the much more soluble sodium salt removes the CO3-- problem. It seems it should though as I suspect the low rate constant applies to CaCO3 + H2O --> Ca++ + CO3-- + H2O and not to CO3-- + H+ --> HCO3-. Note, also that your water may have a fair amount of calcium in it before adjustment. Also whilst NaHCO3 gives you proton absorbing capacity of 0.9 mEq per mmol added sodium Na2CO3 only gives 0.95 which isn't much of an improvement if sodium is a problem. NaOH gives 1 mEq/mmol as does KOH (of, respectively, Na and K) but they seem to be rarely used by home brewers.
Thus I'd say NaHCO3 is your best bet if you can tolerate the sodium and if not, Ca(OH)2.