"All in" or through screen into fermenter? 5 oz. Whirlpool hops

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All in or through sieve?


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    15

lowtones84

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Hey all,

Brewing an IPA with 5 oz. of whirlpool hops today. Typically I transfer from kettle to carboy through a wire sieve to eliminate most of the junk before going into the vessel, but I'm wondering if I'll be losing something when doing a healthy whirlpool addition like that. Thoughts? I've only done a couple of oz. before, somewhat new territory for me.

Thanks!
 
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After the whirlpool and chiling, let sit for 10-30 minutes. Most trub will sink to the bottom. Then drain slowly through the kettle valve or rack clear wort from the top into fermenter, leaving the trub behind.

Putting some sort of filter inside the kettle, on the exit port, will hold more trub back.

You can even strain the leftover trub through a sanitized hop sack, fabric mesh, paint strainer, etc, to reduce your wort losses. You'll have plenty of trub again after dry hopping.
 
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Really? Obviously I've never dumped my kettle hops in my fermentors but I'd think it would be equivalent of leaving dry hops in too long...

Cheers!
 
Yep, really. I've been dumping the whole works for years. Never give it a second thought anymore. I also leave my keg hops in until it's time to clean the keg. No adverse effects that I can discern.
 
Well, I also leave keg hops 'til the keg kicks, but that's 36°F beer for the life of the keg.
I don't think that's the same as fermentation temperatures for an overly prolonged period, but again I don't have first hand experience with that practice...

Cheers!
 
I never filter out anything in my brew kettle as it goes into the primary (hops, proteins, etc). I haven't noticed anything amiss in my finished products.

I was reading about this on HBT and it seems that leaving it in the fermenter has some positive effects though I don't have a list of these qualities. I just remembered many have researched it and found it innocuous at worst.

All in is my recommendation.
 
I filter out as much as is reasonable, but I don't fret about it too much. Hops are generally in some kind of bag/steeping container, and I use a very coarse filter going into my carboy to catch any big stuff that got loose.
 
Never ever any trub into a fermenter, I will often times let cold break settle before transferring, so the wort is crystal clear. If not I’ll dump what cold break forms after 12 or 18 hours.

There is so much horrible oxidative material in hot break especially. All the oils that you want in your beer from the hops will be in the wort.
 
I’m going to try something new on the next batch with 5 oz of hops. Take a large sanitized mesh bag, and put it into my fermonster. Drain the wort, trub and all into the bag inside the fermentor. Then just lift it out after it’s all done, oxygenate and pitch the yeast. Cheap and simple.
 
I didn't answer the poll because I've done it both ways. Did not have a problem either way, nor was I able to tell a difference in the beer. It is definitely worth the experiment of dumping everything in, so you know firsthand.
 
This is my new favorite toy. It is a honey strainer (2 filter level). It gets out just enough, but it won't clog and it is easy to clean.

I LOVE this thing.
20190414_093733.jpeg


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EHIWX1K/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
 
All in if you want maximum chill haze. Good rest in a cold place and transfer the ~clear top phase only (no sieves needed cause they can not hold the fine stuff ) to leave behind most polyphenol+protein(haze) and lipids(head retention).
 
I went all in on this batch, not sure I will do it again when using this amount of hops, at least. I also had 6.5 oz. of dryhops in two stages, 5 of that was put in loose. Racking last night was a huge pain in the ass, surprised I even got 4.5 gallons out of 5.5 in the carboy. Need a conical :p
 
All in if you want maximum chill haze...

Here's one where I dumped everything into the fermenter. No finings of any type were used. It was cold crashed for a few days before packaging. If this is "maximum chill haze", I'll take it.


IMG_20190122_161601_208.jpg
 
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^It's good for you that this beer does not suffer from haze. Some beers still do. It is about small margins whether the amount of complexes is enough to show up.
 
Never ever any trub into a fermenter, I will often times let cold break settle before transferring, so the wort is crystal clear. If not I’ll dump what cold break forms after 12 or 18 hours.

There is so much horrible oxidative material in hot break especially. All the oils that you want in your beer from the hops will be in the wort.

I think the process for hoppy beers has some similarity to LODO processes, meaning that if you don't follow best practices the whole way through, and only change one or two variables, you may not see a real difference.

If you are meticulous on the hot side, but expose the beer to oxygen when packaging, then you are negating all of your hard work on the previous steps.

I fully understand that most people don't care to be bothered with every little meticulous step and as long as the beer is good enough for them then they see no reason to change their brewing practices. That is perfectly fine, as this is a hobby and it's supposed to be fun and a reprieve from every day stressors. That, however, is the problem with getting a good baseline on something like this. Everyone's brewing practices, palates, preferences, and experiences are different.
 
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