I think you are now just trying to pick at any little thing somebody says because you are angry over the responses you have had from rubbing people up the wwrong way.
I am not angry at all. I fully expected that I would take heat for parts of my posting. My point of contention with some of the replies is that they amount to little more than character assassination, and character assassination is a sign that one has lost the argument. As I stated earlier, anyone who disagrees with the information that I posted in this thread is free to spend over an hour composing his/her own all-grain tips thread.
With respect to Bobby_M, well, let's say that anyone who teaches brewers how to commit what is in most cases a criminal act has no right to admonish anyone for giving what he/she believes is questionable advice.
I'm all for advice, BUT there is a line u crossed by bashing on batch spargers and ss braid users, when it's a proven method that is easily obtainable for many brewers.
I carried out a full volume mash last night that worked out very well, could have been better but the software I used grossly overestimated water volume so my efficiency was 68% but that's all the fun of this hobby.
I hope you can see why you have wound people up and would hope ONE may not make this mistake again.
Here's what I wrote about slotted manifolds and tubular mesh screens.
"A lot of people will attempt to convince you to build a slotted manifold or a tubular mesh-based mash strainer. Ignore these brewers. A quick examination of any professional craft brewery will reveal that their lauter tuns have proper false bottoms."
I did not bash those who use slotted manifolds or tubular mesh-based strainers in the paragraph quoted above. I merely stated that new brewers should ignore attempts by others to convince them to build slotted manifolds or tubular mesh-based mash strainers. I also gave a very valid reason for doing so. While some amateur brewers stick with slotted manifolds and tubular mesh strainers, most American amateur brewers who stick with the hobby for more than a couple of years eventually end up using a proper false bottom. Choosing to use a proper false bottom right out of the gate saves money in the long term.
Here's what I wrote about sparging:
"Finally, let's get to one of the most highly contentious subjects within the amateur brewing community; namely, sparging. Truth be told, I am not a fan of multiple lautering (a.k.a. "batch sparging"), as it tends to produce much dirtier "runnings" than traditional continuous sparging (a.k.a. "fly sparging"). Cleaner runoff means cleaner, smoother tasting beer that needs less aging to reach maturity. Continuous sparging will also produce more extract than multiple lautering for any given crush. The rollers on my non-adjustable Schmidling Malt Mill have a 0.045" gap, which is considered to be too wide on this forum. However, my average combined grist extraction rate with domestic malt is 30 points per pound per gallon with domestic malt and 32 points per pound per gallon with imported malt. "
I did not bash batch spargers in the paragraph quoted above. I merely stated that I am not a fan of multiple lautering, and gave my reasons for not being a fan of the process. Anyone who considers my use of the term "multiple lautering" to be bashing has fairly thin skin. There's no such thing as "batch sparging" just as there is no such thing as "fly sparging." They are both made up terms for brewing processes that have been around for a very long time. Batch sparging is little more than a specialized application of parti-gyle brewing in which only one beer is made.