Air Lock Question

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scottyg354

Plant Based Homebrewer
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I started a batch of brown ale on friday. I've been checking my fermentor every so often. Saturday night and Sunday we were bubbling pretty good. By sunday night I was watching it bubble every 30 seconds to a minute. Today I went and checked, I watch for 5 minutes and it didn't bubble once. Is this typical. I followed all the rules. My temp is kind of on the low end between 66-68 degrees. Does the bubbling eventually slow down? :drunk:
 
Airlock bubbling and fermentation are not the same things, so a slowing airlock doesn't equate with slowing fermentation, or really anything....


Airlock activity is irrevelent. Just gravity points on a hydrometer. And yes bubbling slows down eventually.

Airlock bubbling (or lack) and fermentation are not the same thing. You have to separate that from your mindset. Airlock bubbling can be a sign of fermentation, but not a good one, because the airlock will often blip or not blip for various other reasons...so it is a tenuous connection at best.

If your airlock was bubbling and stopped---It doesn't mean fermentation has stopped.

If you airlock isn't bubbling, it doesn't mean your fermentation hasn't started....

If your airlock starts bubbling, it really doesn't matter.

If your airlock NEVER bubbles, it doesn't mean anything is wrong or right.

Your airlock is not a fermentation gauge, it is a VALVE to release excess co2. If it bubbles it is because it needs to, if it doesn't, it just means it doesn't need too...


Your HYDROMETER is the only BEST indicator of fermentation activity. Nothing else is accurate or consistent...

Unless you take a gravity reading you don't know what's really going on, not by airlock bubbling or by krausen formation. Neither of those signs are effective, they don't tell you exactly where on the fermentation process you are.

The amount of krausen can vary for whatever reason, it can come quick and depart quickly or it can linger long after fermentation is complete, and it all be normal.

And airlocks sometimes bubble or they don't. And airlock is a valve, a vent to release excess co2...NOT a fermentation gauge. It's important to make that distinction, or you'll be panicking everytime a an airlock doesn't bubble, or stops bubbling.

Fermentation is not always "dynamic," just because you don't SEE anything happening, doesn't mean that any-thing's wrong,, and also doesn't mean that the yeast are still not working diligently away, doing what they've been doing for over 4,000 years.

That's why you need to take a gravity reading to know how your fermentation is going, NOT go by airlocks, or size of krausen, or a calendar, the horoscope or the phases of the moon (those things in my mind are equally accurate). :rolleyes:

The most important tool you can use is a hydrometer. It's the only way you will truly know when your beer is ready...airlock bubbles and other things are faulty.

The only way to truly know what is going on in your fermenter is with your hydrometer. Like I said here in my blog, which I encourage you to read, Think evaluation before action you sure as HELL wouldn't want a doctor to start cutting on you unless he used the proper diagnostic instuments like x-rays first, right? You wouldn't want him to just take a look in your eyes briefly and say "I'm cutting into your chest first thing in the morning." You would want them to use the right diagnostic tools before the slice and dice, right? You'd cry malpractice, I would hope, if they didn't say they were sending you for an MRI and other things before going in....

Fast fermentations/slow fermentations/big krausens/small krausens/bubbles starting and stopping, in the long run is really irrevelent....just that you have fermentation. Yeast don't normal normally die/stop fermenting/get tired, that's a premise new brewers believe, but it's not the truth. Yeast have been doing this for 4,000 years, and know how to ferment the beer, they WANT to ferment the beer, it's their entire purpose in life is to eat sugar, peer alcohol and fart co2 (along with some major screwing during the reproductive phase) especially modern 21st century yeast.

All those other things are really just superficial to the purpose at hand, if your yeast took off, unless you let the temp go down near 50, your yeast is still working happily away, despite what the supreficial signs like airlock may indicate.
 
Another problem. I forgot to test my OG. Another user on here told me to wait until day 12 and test it, then wait a few days and test again. If it stays the same my brew is ready to be bottled. Is that correct?
 
Another problem. I forgot to test my OG. Another user on here told me to wait until day 12 and test it, then wait a few days and test again. If it stays the same my brew is ready to be bottled. Is that correct?

That's the correct way to test for fermentation completion, yes. However that does not tell you what your OG was. The only way to know that is to take a hydrometer reading before fermentation begins.
 
Is it an issue that I didn't take the OG? I just slipped my mind. I know that how you calculate ABV
 
Any recipe or brewing software will tell you what your OG should be. IF it's an extract recipe your beer is automatically the og that it says in the recipe if you've dilluted to the correct final volume. It's foolproof. You are dilluting your fixed gravity wort to a fixed final volume, it is hard not to hit your target. Obviously in AG brewing it's up to your process whether you hit your numbers, but if you are following your recipe, and are pretty conisistant in things you usually get in close to the gravity, but with AG brewing you really should be taking constant readings from preboil to yeast pitch so you can adjust things as you go along.
 
Not a problem. Wait a couple weeks, check the gravity, give it another 3 days then recheck it and if it isn't dropping then it can be bottled. Wait longer and it'll clear up some and get better! :D
 
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