Advice on ebiab build

[BeerGoggles403]

Hi all looking to tap into some of the vast knowledge here

I’m looking to put together an ebiab system capable of doing up to 15 gallon batches at (1.055)ish .

Looking at 25 or 30 gallon kettle but unsure which and what size element or elements.

Any advice is appreciated

 

[doug293cz]

What size batches will you be doing most? I wouldn't want to do a 5 gal batch in anything bigger than a 15 gal kettle. If you are going to routinely do 15 gal batches, then the 30 gal might be the best option.

With larger batches, you might want more than 5500W heating capability if you don't like waiting for strike water to heat up or wort to come to a boil. You can add more elements, but then you are looking at putting in a 50A service rather than a 30A service.

Brew on

 

[craigmw]

I have a 20 gallon Concord tri-clad kettle that I've used exclusively for BIAB (over a Blichmann propane burner) for over six years and it has worked quite well for 5 and 10 gallon batches. I've done the occasional 15 gallon batches by incorporating a Concord steamer basket that fits the kettle to hold the bag and then pumping 170F sparge water over the suspended grain. For this, I use something similar to Alton Brown's "turkey derrick" which involves a ladder, some rope and a couple of "carabiner-like devices." This allows me to do a "hanging basket sparge" and thus I can get better efficiencies and makes 15 gallon batches doable despite the Concord kettle being closer to 18.5 gallons.

I just purchased a 22 gallon BrewBuilt kettle for an electric BIAB system. I've only tried a couple of 11 gallon hanging basket sparge brew days, and thus far, that system is working quite well. In fact, one was a Russian Imperial Stout that used 46 pounds of grain for an 11 gallon batch (O.G. about 1.110), really pushing the limits of that system. I have not done a 5 gallon brew day yet, but see no reason why a 5 gallon batch wouldn't work fine.

If you are planning to use propane, I see no reason why a 20 gallon kettle wouldn't work out fine for 15 gallon batches so long as you add some sort of sparge step. If you want to simplify and just do a standard 15 gallon full volume BIAB mash, then you will certainly need a larger kettle. Also keep in mind that if you are planning to use a standard electric element, that will require some sort of steamer basket or BIAB "false bottom" like that sold by BrewHardware to prevent the bag from contacting the element. Apparently, the Blichmann Boil Coil does not require this, but standard water heater elements do. With a water heater element and a false bottom/steamer rack to separate the bag from the element, you might be pushing the ability to mash sufficient grain for higher gravity 5 gallon brews. So, this is something to consider during your system design. This really shouldn't be a problem with a gas fired kettle, especially if it incorporates a tri-clad bottom.

 

[BeerGoggles403]

Thanks for the reply.
I would be doing 15 gal batches more often then not.

So maybe I’ll look at the 30 gal.

Is there a source for sizing heat elements?

I’m going to be piecing this together as funds allow.

 

[BeerGoggles403]

I have a 20 gallon Concord tri-clad kettle that I've used exclusively for BIAB (over a Blichmann propane burner) for over six years and it has worked quite well for 5 and 10 gallon batches. I've done the occasional 15 gallon batches by incorporating a Concord steamer basket that fits the kettle to hold the bag and then pumping 170F sparge water over the suspended grain. For this, I use something similar to Alton Brown's "turkey derrick" which involves a ladder, some rope and a couple of "carabiner-like devices." This allows me to do a "hanging basket sparge" and thus I can get better efficiencies and makes 15 gallon batches doable despite the Concord kettle being closer to 18.5 gallons.

I just purchased a 22 gallon BrewBuilt kettle for an electric BIAB system. I've only tried a couple of 11 gallon hanging basket sparge brew days, and thus far, that system is working quite well. In fact, one was a Russian Imperial Stout that used 46 pounds of grain for an 11 gallon batch (O.G. about 1.110), really pushing the limits of that system. I have not done a 5 gallon brew day yet, but see no reason why a 5 gallon batch wouldn't work fine.

If you are planning to use propane, I see no reason why a 20 gallon kettle wouldn't work out fine for 15 gallon batches so long as you add some sort of sparge step. If you want to simplify and just do a standard 15 gallon full volume BIAB mash, then you will certainly need a larger kettle. Also keep in mind that if you are planning to use a standard electric element, that will require some sort of steamer basket or BIAB "false bottom" like that sold by BrewHardware to prevent the bag from contacting the element. Apparently, the Blichmann Boil Coil does not require this, but standard water heater elements do. With a water heater element and a false bottom/steamer rack to separate the bag from the element, you might be pushing the ability to mash sufficient grain for higher gravity 5 gallon brews. So, this is something to consider during your system design. This really shouldn't be a problem with a gas fired kettle, especially if it incorporates a tri-clad bottom.

Great info thanks.

 

[craigmw]

Thanks for the reply.
I would be doing 15 gal batches more often then not.

So maybe I’ll look at the 30 gal.

Is there a source for sizing heat elements?

I’m going to be piecing this together as funds allow.

30 gallon might be best if you are mostly doing 15 gallon batches. You could go with a smaller kettle, but that would likely require a sparge step. Doing 5 gallon batches with a 30 gallon kettle and electric water heater element might be difficult (except maybe with the Boil Coil).

Here's a calculator (at the bottom of the page) for determining how long it would take to bring up different volumes of water to a specific temperature with a given heating element wattage:

https://manskirtbrewing.com/Calculators.aspx#electrichdr

 

[BeerGoggles403]

30 gallon might be best if you are mostly doing 15 gallon batches. You could go with a smaller kettle, but that would likely require a sparge step. Doing 5 gallon batches with a 30 gallon kettle and electric water heater element might be difficult (except maybe with the Boil Coil).

Here's a calculator (at the bottom of the page) for determining how long it would take to bring up different volumes of water to a specific temperature with a given heating element wattage:

https://manskirtbrewing.com/Calculators.aspx#electrichdr

That’s perfect Thanks

 

[Bobby_M]

I have a 31 gallon BrewBuilt kettle available that I can install a 5500 watt ripple element into via TIG welded TC port. If my math is correct, that's a 15 gallon batch at 13% ABV.

I also have a Brewmaster 25 gallon kettle on hand that is already setup with three 1.5" TC ports. A bottom drain, an element port and a steam condenser port up at the top. This kettle fits my 17.5" BIAB false bottom perfectly. A single 5500 watt element is fine for this size.

 

[craigmw]

I have a 31 gallon BrewBuilt kettle available that I can install a 5500 watt ripple element into via TIG welded TC port. If my math is correct, that's a 15 gallon batch at 13% ABV.

I also have a Brewmaster 25 gallon kettle on hand that is already setup with three 1.5" TC ports. A bottom drain, an element port and a steam condenser port up at the top. This kettle fits my 17.5" BIAB false bottom perfectly. A single 5500 watt element is fine for this size.

Bobby, I went with your 5500W stainless TC ripple element connected to my 22 gallon BrewBuilt kettle that I had two 1.5" triclover ports added to. It works beautifully in this configuration! I also purchased an 8 foot cord from you to connect the element to my controller and really like its waterproof connection. BrewHardware really helped me get going with eBIAB, so kudos to you for all the help!