Adjusting Monster Mill 2.0

[LLBeanJ]

Bringing back an old thread. I recently purchased the MM-2 and have been having nothing but problems with it. After reading through this thread I understand the way it's supposed to be adjusted and I have tried that with varied success. My problems are always with the shaft side knob (the opposite side knob is always locked in with no issues).

When I first adjusted it, the shaft side knob would always get loose really quickly. What I noticed is that the knob was pushed in all the way and the screw wasn't fitting into the groove inside the knob, so I moved the knob out a little and then it definitely felt like it got a lot tighter.

I crushed about 6 pounds of grain and everything seemed to be good. Unfortunately, when i continued crushing it eventually got loose, and I didn't notice until after I finished crushing the grains. I noticed a few grains weren't crushed. Still brewed and my efficiency was terrible as a result.

I'm thinking of giving up on this mill, unless anyone has any other ideas here.

One more thing, I did reach out to the company (twice) but never heard back.

How tight are you tightening the clamp screws? They need to be pretty tight to keep them from loosening. I use a small Crescent wrench to put some decent leverage on them, as my experience has shown me that finger tight is not sufficient, and the adjustment has stayed right where I set it. I'd have to guess I've crushed over 200 lbs of grain since the last time I messed with the gap. I know there have been a number of users who replaced the original 1/4-20 thumb screws with socket head cap screws so they could be tightened easier. I would venture a guess that if you are having trouble with the knob not holding the setting, then you need to clamp it tighter.

 

[IslandLizard]

Just for clarification, you have the MM-2, with the thumb screws on the back, not the MM2 2.0 now called the MM-2Pro with the locking collar?

What the others said, those "thumb" screws need a bit more tightening than you can by hand. I use 1/2" pliers to give them that little extra nudge. But not over-tightened or to the point where you're stripping the threads.

I've put some heavy duty grease on the screws/threads, in hopes the aluminum threads won't wear out as much and to prevent binding.

I adjust the mill at least once each brew/milling session. I use ~0.028-0.030" gap for Barley, ~0.024-0.026" for wheat, rye, flaked goods, and other small kernel grain. I use 2 credit cards with different thinness as my gauges. Mash efficiency is around 84%.

If your efficiency is low, definitely tighten down on the gap. Don't run the mill too fast either.

 

[chrisvaf]

Wow - thanks for the replies! Some updates to questions asked.

Yes, I have the original MM-2 with the thumbscrews, not the Pro.

I have only hand-tightened the screws as I have been scared of over-tightening. After I moved the knob out it definitely tightened a lot more securely. I use a cordless drill in the "low" setting which maxes out at 400 RPM, and I only push about halfway so I don't think I'm crushing too fast.

Is it normal to have to push the knob out in order for it to tighten more securely? If not is it possible I didn't install the base correctly?

 

[IslandLizard]

Regarding the adjustment knob pushing in too far. I don't think that's even possible with a correctly mounted mill, unless something has changed in the manufacturing. The knurl is higher than the sleeve that goes entirely inside the mount. The knurl provides for a natural stop there.

Double check the mounting to the base board from the bottom. There should be no visibly perceptible gap between the rollers and the mounts. Just enough play so it doesn't chafe or bind, perhaps the thickness of a 24# sheet of paper on each side. Make sure both rollers spin freely within the frame. Check again after you've tightened the bolts to the base.

Remark:
A 1/8" steel plate covering the whole side mount on the bottom of the base would have been much better than those 4 little washers, especially on that narrow edge of MDF board.

When you adjust the gap, don't unscrew the thumb screws any more than half a turn, just enough to loosen the eccenters. That way you cannot even pull the adjustment knob/eccenter out.

Your milling speed sounds fine, optimal being around 15" per second. For 1.5" diameter rollers that means around 180rpm.

 

[mabrungard]

It does make a difference which side of the eccentric the thumb screw is tightened on. Recognize that there are points on the eccentric bushing that will produce the same gap. You need to have the eccentric situated so that its forced INTO the thumbscrew and not away from the thumbscrew.

By the way, I converted to the upgraded eccentrics and haven't ever had to adjust them again.

 

[chrisvaf]

By the way, I converted to the upgraded eccentrics and haven't ever had to adjust them again.

Which upgraded eccentrics are you referring to?

 

[mabrungard]

I'm referring to the eccentrics that now come stock on the Monster mills that have the big dial-looking knobs with the bolt that secures the dial. I bought one of the mills that had the thumbscrews and I converted that mill with the kit that you can get from Monster.

 

[IslandLizard]

I'm referring to the eccentrics that now come stock on the Monster mills that have the big dial-looking knobs with the bolt that secures the dial. I bought one of the mills that had the thumbscrews and I converted that mill with the kit that you can get from Monster.

The dial knobs with the lock down bolt are only on the "Pro" models, which have 2" rollers. All the 1.5" roller models still have the thumb screw on the back, and cannot be converted simply.

What gap do you mill at and how do you handle small kernel grain such as wheat, rye, etc.?

 

[mabrungard]

Ah, I do have the 2" rollers (which produce a fantastic crush, by the way).

I condition my malt with a water spray prior to crushing and use a 0.036" gap. I don't alter the gap for wheat.

 

[IslandLizard]

Ah, I do have the 2" rollers (which produce a fantastic crush, by the way).

I condition my malt with a water spray prior to crushing and use a 0.036" gap. I don't alter the gap for wheat.

I'm surprised you don't end up with half the wheat being uncrushed with that gap.