Adapting my electric brewery

[jcojr72]

So, I currently brew with a 240V heatstick. I have built a control panel with SSR, PID, etc that I plug into my 30A 240V dryer outlet. I really love this setup, however I am moving......

I will not have a 240V receptacle to plug into at the new place, so I am trying to figure out how to modify my setup to make it work. I had 2 options:
1. Make a couple 120v heatsticks. I would probably pipe one through the control panel so I could control it with the PID. The second would be hardwired, so full in full off. This should be me enough flexibilty for varying batch sizes.
2. Maybe an out there idea, but I was thinking maybe I could pull (2) 120V circuits into my control panel and utilize both the hots for a 240V element. Please tell me I am crazy, but if the 2 circuits are from the opposite poles is this not the same thing as a 240 volt circuit?

Any ideas?

Thanks.

 

[processhead]

Your idea isn't too far out there.
A dedicated 240 volt circuit is nothing more than what you described only run through one cable. Two hots to each breaker, a neutral, and a ground. The breaker rating and the conductor size are the limiting factors to the capacity of the new circuit.

 

[jcojr72]

That is what I thought, just seemed a little odd. So, if I did this I would bring the 2-120V hots in just like I currently have the 2-240V hots wired now. With the 2 neutrals, can I tie these together?

Also, given this will be a 20A 240V circuit, looks like I would need to downsize to a 3500W element in lieu of the 4500W I have now.

 

[processhead]

I would suggest you purchase some 12-3 w/ground cable. to run to your brewing area from the panel.

It will have an insulated black, red, and white conductor, and a bare ground.

The black and the red will go to each 20 amp breaker. The white will go to your panel neutral buss, and the bare ground will go to the ground buss.

You only need one neutral conductor for a 240 volt circuit and then, only if you have some 120 volt control circuits that you need to provide with power.

3500 watts will be about the right size for your element.

 

[jcojr72]

I will not be able to wire this directly to the panel. I am going to be plugging into (2) separate 20A outlets on separate circuits. So, I envision (2)-20A extension chords running from my control panel to these outlets.

 

[processhead]

I will not be able to wire this directly to the panel. I am going to be plugging into (2) separate 20A outlets on separate circuits. So, I envision (2)-20A extension chords running from my control panel to these outlets.

OK, I see what you are saying now.
This should do what you are wanting. Be aware that any other electric loads on those circuits will reduce the available amperage to your brewing system.

 

[Bobby_M]

I have no idea what NEC says about doing it this way. One thing is for sure though, you'll only get 240v across the two hots if they are in fact on the different bus bars in the main panel. You'd have to plug in your two extension cords and then use a meter set on voltage to see if you can get 240v. If all you read is 120v or 0v, no dice.

 

[processhead]

Also, it goes without saying that you would need to add any GFCI protection devices in your brewing panel to ensure your own safety.