ABT False Bottom

[craigsphillips]

Fellow brewers, I'm looking for some feedback before buying the 11.5" ABT false bottom sold by Northern Brewer (see link below). How did it perform in your keggle mash tun and brew kettle (with pellet hops)? Any issues? Alternatives are welcome; please include a link showing your solution. Thanks, happy brewing!

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/abt-large-hole-false-bottom-1-2-hole-no-elbow.html

PS. I'd really like feedback from people who have used this false bottom. Thanks.

 

[klyph]

Gotta rep the Jaybird false bottom.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f41/jaybirds-stainless-false-bottoms-146056/#post1666783

 

[craigsphillips]

Gotta rep the Jaybird false bottom.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f41/jaybirds-stainless-false-bottoms-146056/#post1666783

Thanks, klyph. I was hoping to get some feedback on the ABT false bottom. There is a lot already written about Jaybirds false bottoms, but it is a lot more expensive. Have you used the ABT false bottom?

 

[klyph]

If you look at his 12" it is actually cheaper than the ABT 11.5" one that you linked.

 

[JonW]

I'm not using it anymore because I switched from keggles to Blingmans, but I used the ABT with my keggle. I got it second hand from a friend and we both liked it. Never had an issue. No stuck sparges. I wouldn't hesitate to use it again.

 

[klyph]

And no, I have not used the ABT. I purchased a 15" from Jaybird, but haven't had a chance to use it. The only experience I have is with this colander I converted to a false bottom.

I'm guessing the ABT might seal around the edge more reliably since it is contoured to the shape of the keg. However, this shouldn't be an issue as long as your diptube holds the false bottom centered. The lautering performance between the two is most likely negligible. I bought from Jay because he's a small business guy and a supporter of HBT.

 

[mtnbikerbrewer]

I have used the ABT once now in my keg mash tun, I did a 15 gallon batch of a brown ale using 29 pounds of grain... My mash efficiency was good, though I did have to add about 1.75 gallons to my kettle to get my volume and gravity (my wort was super concentrated) since I had to cut runnings. My runnings were clear quick, less than two quarts of recirculation (though I did 4 qts to be safe) and I figured my mash efficiency to be around 80-85%. I ended up pretty much dead on (with in a point or two) for my end boil gravity and my volume was pretty much dead on. I'm going to do my second batch this weekend, so hopefully it will work well then too..

 

[BrewBeemer]

I used the ABT with my keggle.

Jon,
I have a couple questions;
how tall is it dome vs the edge of the ABT, measurement would
answer one question?
Can it be installed in the keggle inverted and still seal around the edges
before bottoming out on the center?
I want to invert a keg using the top fill as the center drain with
a dished FB downward vs up as intended for the ABT screen.

 

[Catt22]

I'm using one in my BK with excellent results. Works with either pellet or whole hops or a combination of both:

 

[BrewBeemer]

Still not the answer on inverting the FB question.
Adding a flat collar or ring that just fits high
up inside the keg then adding the FB will the
ring hold the FB up high enough for the drop
center installed downward to still clear the keg bottoms?
By adding a perforated ring of 15.5" this increases the
filtering area from 104 sq/in to 188 sq/in a 1.81 times
increase plus allowing less dead space in the MLT.
I'm thinking use this step FB in both.

 

[JonW]

Jon,
I have a couple questions;
how tall is it dome vs the edge of the ABT, measurement would
answer one question?
Can it be installed in the keggle inverted and still seal around the edges
before bottoming out on the center?
I want to invert a keg using the top fill as the center drain with
a dished FB downward vs up as intended for the ABT screen.

Sorry, I sold my keggles a few weeks back so I can't measure this.

 

[BrewBeemer]

No worries as Northern gave me a reply with specs i'm golden.

 

[Catt22]

Still not the answer on inverting the FB question.
Adding a flat collar or ring that just fits high
up inside the keg then adding the FB will the
ring hold the FB up high enough for the drop
center installed downward to still clear the keg bottoms?
By adding a perforated ring of 15.5" this increases the
filtering area from 104 sq/in to 188 sq/in a 1.81 times
increase plus allowing less dead space in the MLT.
I'm thinking use this step FB in both.

I don't know the answer to that. Next time I brew I will take some measurements. I'm not really clear on what you are describing other than you want to drain through the center of the kettle bottom when the keg is inverted. I think you'd be better off just buying a full width FB off the shelf if more surface area is what you are after.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Catt,
i'm looking for a dished FB that can be inverted that follows near to the radius of a inverted keggle, almost matching the same radius dish as the keg be it off the top or bottom this allows for more grain capacity with less dead space under the FB. I must add I want this dish at the maximum diameter for the most surface area exposed. Why settle for what's good enough or available at this time? This dished FB does not need that center pickup hole either with using the kegs center drain.

 

[Catt22]

Catt,
i'm looking for a dished FB that can be inverted that follows near to the radius of a inverted keggle, almost matching the same radius dish as the keg be it off the top or bottom this allows for more grain capacity with less dead space under the FB. I must add I want this dish at the maximum diameter for the most surface area exposed. Why settle for what's good enough or available at this time? This dished FB does not need that center pickup hole either with using the kegs center drain.

OK, I understand much better now. I don't think the ABT FB will work as it is not actually domed. It's flat on top with a sloping rim that's curved upward near the edge to match the curvature of the keg bottom. I can see how increased surface area would be beneficial, but you can get that with the available flat FB's. Here's a 12" dia domed one from NB:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewi...ipment/false-bottoms/12-s-s-false-bottom.html I have not seen any 15.5" versions, but maybe you could modify one of these. IIRC the depth of the curved part of the keg bottom is typically about 1-1/2" although I got that just doing an approximate measurement one time for volume calculations. Don't know if all Sankey kegs have the same bottom configuration or not. I plan to avoid all this and buy a 20 gal kettle with a full FB someday when I have a spare $400 laying around. It will happen eventually, but not real soon the way it's looking at the moment.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Don't laugh i'm already thinking a tight fitting FB in diameter then using a planisher hammer and English wheel for a flat perimeter with a domed center facing downward just above the keg radius.

 

[craigsphillips]

Catt,
i'm looking for a dished FB that can be inverted that follows near to the radius of a inverted keggle, almost matching the same radius dish as the keg be it off the top or bottom this allows for more grain capacity with less dead space under the FB. I must add I want this dish at the maximum diameter for the most surface area exposed. Why settle for what's good enough or available at this time? This dished FB does not need that center pickup hole either with using the kegs center drain.

No offense BrewBeemer, your questions and ideas are good ones, but they should be moved to a new thread. This thread was intended to be feedback about the ABT False Bottom not a mash tun design discussion. Can anyone move BrewBeemer's questions to a new thread. Thanks.

 

[craigsphillips]

And no, I have not used the ABT. I purchased a 15" from Jaybird, but haven't had a chance to use it. The only experience I have is with this colander I converted to a false bottom.

I'm guessing the ABT might seal around the edge more reliably since it is contoured to the shape of the keg. However, this shouldn't be an issue as long as your diptube holds the false bottom centered. The lautering performance between the two is most likely negligible. I bought from Jay because he's a small business guy and a supporter of HBT.

That's a pretty ingenious idea using a stainless steel colander. Did that work well? It has to be a lot less expensive than false bottoms.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Sorry Craig, kind of got off topic I guess asking parallel questions from your original ABT thread, about the ABT FB for BK and MLT use, FB is a FB in both keggles. I didn't mean to hijack it just expanding questions about this dishpan designed ABT FB.
I'll shut up and direct my questions instead to the ABT manufacture.

 

[craigsphillips]

If you look at his 12" it is actually cheaper than the ABT 11.5" one that you linked.

Thanks, Klyph. I can't believe I overlooked the prices. I am in talks with Jay now about a false bottom, but havn't decided which direction to go, yet. I wonder if I could get Jay's 12" into my kettle, though. The opening in my MT and BK is 12". I'm kind of intrigued by the shape of the ABT false bottom, whether or not it is advantageous or not, I'm not sure. Maybe some users can share more experiences with them.

 

[craigsphillips]

I'm using one in my BK with excellent results. Works with either pellet or whole hops or a combination of both:

Awesome, Catt22, the pictures are worth a thousand words. You couldn't have said it any better! One question, though, what is the piece of copper hanging on the side of the keg in your last picture? Is it holding the false bottom down? If so, were you having a problem with it staying down? Is that a problem to be concerned with? Thanks.

 

[Catt22]

One question, though, what is the piece of copper hanging on the side of the keg in your last picture? Is it holding the false bottom down? If so, were you having a problem with it staying down? Is that a problem to be concerned with? Thanks.

Firstly, here's the pickup tube that also serves to hold the FB firmly and securely in place. If you look closely at the end just below the elbow you will see a "ring" that I soldered onto the down pipe. This ring is just a bit larger in diameter than the hole in the FB and it prevents the FB from moving. I cut the ring from a copper coupling with a hack saw and soldered it onto the down tube. The fitting in the center of the horizontal pipe is a pipe union. The union can be separated so that the FB can be removed for cleaning, yet it seals completely when reassembled.

The copper piece is a section of 1/4" copper tube and it is attached to the edge of the FB with an SS sheet metal screw. This is my solution to the problem of the FB becoming clogged with hop debris and trub which can accumulate to the point of slowing the flow dramatically. Keep in mind that I am chilling by pumping the hot wort through a CFC and back to the kettle in a continuous loop. The severity of the clogging depends a lot on the type and quantity of hops used. Anyway, I want a high flow rate for quick chilling. When the wort flow slows, I use the copper tubing to lift the edge of the FB slightly and this restores full flow without disturbing the caked on debris. I call this my "Lift & Flow" design. I bent the top of the copper tube to hook over the edge of the kettle rim so that I don't have to hold it up when in use. When not in use, the lift rod just leans against the inside wall of the kettle. This mod cost me about $2.50 including the SS screw! Very little debris makes it out of the kettle and what does escape are very fine particles, almost like dust. I've tried all sorts of methods to screen out the hops while circulating the wort fast. I was never fond of the paint strainer bags as IMO, they inhibit late addition hop utilization and I feel the same about using hop bags. I like to have the hops free floating, particularly the late addition hops.

This mod has been working extremely well for me. I'd like to see someone else give it a try.

FYI, the center hole in the ATB FB must be enlarged a little if you use hard copper pipe. The hole as delivered is 1/2" IIRC. The hard pipe is about 5/8" OD. I used a rotary file and a cordless drill to enlarge the hole. No big deal at all really, but something to be aware of.

I wonder what ATB stands for? Anyone know?

 

[craigsphillips]

Firstly, here's the pickup tube that also serves to hold the FB firmly and securely in place. If you look closely at the end just below the elbow you will see a "ring" that I soldered onto the down pipe. This ring is just a bit larger in diameter than the hole in the FB and it prevents the FB from moving. I cut the ring from a copper coupling with a hack saw and soldered it onto the down tube. The fitting in the center of the horizontal pipe is a pipe union. The union can be separated so that the FB can be removed for cleaning, yet it seals completely when reassembled.

The copper piece is a section of 1/4" copper tube and it is attached to the edge of the FB with an SS sheet metal screw. This is my solution to the problem of the FB becoming clogged with hop debris and trub which can accumulate to the point of slowing the flow dramatically. Keep in mind that I am chilling by pumping the hot wort through a CFC and back to the kettle in a continuous loop. The severity of the clogging depends a lot on the type and quantity of hops used. Anyway, I want a high flow rate for quick chilling. When the wort flow slows, I use the copper tubing to lift the edge of the FB slightly and this restores full flow without disturbing the caked on debris. I call this my "Lift & Flow" design. I bent the top of the copper tube to hook over the edge of the kettle rim so that I don't have to hold it up when in use. When not in use, the lift rod just leans against the inside wall of the kettle. This mod cost me about $2.50 including the SS screw! Very little debris makes it out of the kettle and what does escape are very fine particles, almost like dust. I've tried all sorts of methods to screen out the hops while circulating the wort fast. I was never fond of the paint strainer bags as IMO, they inhibit late addition hop utilization and I feel the same about using hop bags. I like to have the hops free floating, particularly the late addition hops.

This mod has been working extremely well for me. I'd like to see someone else give it a try.

FYI, the center hole in the ATB FB must be enlarged a little if you use hard copper pipe. The hole as delivered is 1/2" IIRC. The hard pipe is about 5/8" OD. I used a rotary file and a cordless drill to enlarge the hole. No big deal at all really, but something to be aware of.

I wonder what ATB stands for? Anyone know?

That's a sweet fix! I really love all the pictures and feedback you've provided. I was a little concerned about the pellet hops stopping the flow. FYI, ABT is the abbreviation for the company name, Advanded Brewing Technologies.

 

[klyph]

That's a pretty ingenious idea using a stainless steel colander. Did that work well? It has to be a lot less expensive than false bottoms.

It certainly got the job done, never had a stuck sparge, though I was careful to keep my recirculation slow. I always got higher than 75% efficiency, and the wort was always really clear after recirculation. And yes, it was a freebie.

Come to think of it, I can't remember why I upgraded to the full false bottom.