A new kind of kettle whirlpool

[iijakii]

Not meaning to hijack but since it is popping up... I have your current whirlpool arm which has a compression fitting. This works really well in my config. The problem I have is pump cavitation - wort at boiling temp running through the pump then whirlpool arm at low to no restriction = cavitation and decoupling. I have thought about putting a nozzle at the exit of the whirlpool arm, but can't seem to find an off-the-shelf solution, such as a socket weld reducing fitting in SS.

Have you given this any thought with this new design or seen/heard of this issue with the old design? I suppose many whirlpool through their CFC or plate chiller which creates a restriction. I go through the chiller to sanitize it during the final stages of the boil, but then go straight from pump to arm for the whirlpool stage. The volume really creates a legit hop/trub cone.

Why not just add head by having a partially closed valve after the pump / before the whirlpool arm? Or maybe you could try this kind of camlock fitting on the hose to hook up to your whirlpool arm https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/camc.htm . Should marginally increase velocity too.

 

[BrunDog]

Thanks. I can't add a ball valve as all the valves are automated motorized ball valves. I just need some type of nozzle at the end. I am going to try crimping off the end of tube a bit. That should do it for cheap, but of course there is no turning back if I screw it up.

 

[pennengr]

Ordered.

 

[Vesteroid]

I recently ordered new 15G kettles from Spike and had a recirculation port welded near the top. I picked up a chugger, plate chiller, cam locks and connection kits from Bobby. I am going to wet test everything today prior to first brew. Was planning to use a 90* el with 3/8" hose barb to generate a whirlpool (see pic).

I gather from this thread that trying to whirlpool from the top may not be effective. I'm also now concerned about spraying wort everywhere. Are these valid concerns? With the welded port, what would be a more effective way of achieving a whirlpool? Seems like Bobby's new whirlpool arm would be hard to spin-thread into the in-place welded port?

I have similar set up on the MLT and was going to use a length of high-temp silicon hose purchased from Bobby to recirculate during the mash. That approach still seems okay?

are you doing biab with that pot, as I see a false bottom... or is it a mash tun?

Just not sure why you would want to whirlpool a mash tun if that is what you use that pot for. And if its a boil kettle, while the whirlpool would help with an immersion chiller, I dont think you're going to see any benefit in trub reduction with that false bottom in there.

 

[Bobby_M]

Bobby. I like the looks of the Spincycle better than what I'm using now, but already have a hole drilled that I'd want to use. The tube would have to be shorter than the 10" drop length. I have a tube bender. Do you see any problem in cutting it off and bending it? What's the wall thickness?

I can do it as short as you need it. I just picked three random lengths.

 

[orangehero]

Long hop stands/steeps. My last beer had 2.25 hours of whirlpooling and was the best beer I have ever brewed. I did it partially by hand because it was too cold out (I didn't want too much heat loss through pump hoses), but in the warmer months I plan to let the pump go for that long.

Why are you running your pump that whole time though? Some IPA brewers even use CO2 pressure to transfer from the kettle just to avoid additional pumping stress.

This looks great Bobby, I'll probably be picking one up. Keep up the awesome product innovation!

 

[ViciousFishes]

are you doing biab with that pot, as I see a false bottom... or is it a mash tun?

Just not sure why you would want to whirlpool a mash tun if that is what you use that pot for. And if its a boil kettle, while the whirlpool would help with an immersion chiller, I dont think you're going to see any benefit in trub reduction with that false bottom in there.

Yes, that's the mash tun, it was just more readily accessible for the picture. The MLT & BK are similarly outfitted.

 

[Hello]

I like the look of this a lot. May have to order.

 

[kevink]

Why are you running your pump that whole time though? Some IPA brewers even use CO2 pressure to transfer from the kettle just to avoid additional pumping stress.

It probably doesn't make much of a difference from a utilization/extraction standpoint as long as the wort is stirred periodically during a long hop stand, but why not leave the pump running? What bad can happen? Are you talking shear stress? What's the concern?

 

[orangehero]

Yeah shear stress denaturing proteins and affecting other flavor compounds. Whether it matters for some or all beers I can't say, but I do try to avoid it if I can. You'll also grind up the floccs more finely and make the trub pile less solid.

 

[AnOldUR]

I can do it as short as you need it. I just picked three random lengths.

Would 4-1/2" be too short to allow for bending?

 

[Bobby_M]

I got one to bend to 5" drop. 4 would be minimum.

 

[Gavin C]

I was just looking at something similar but wanted to repurpose the hole in my pot where the dial thermometer was. (I don't need a dial thermometer)



I just used a 90° NPT/compression fitting and short SS tube.



The drop down length was going to be too long for me with a similar setup



Beautiful looking product though. If I had a hole higher in the pot this is what I would get. (I'm too chicken to drill holes in my pot despite watching all of your great videos on the technique.)

 

[AnOldUR]

I got one to bend to 5" drop. 4 would be minimum.

I'll take the 5" drop. Be by to pick it up. Thanks!

 

[pennengr]

Installed - water batch photo. Very happy with this whirlpool arm - very low profile.

 

[BrunDog]

Tight!

 

[cantrell00]

Installed - water batch photo. Very happy with this whirlpool arm - very low profile.

How well do those trub dam's work?

 

[pennengr]

How well do those trub dam's work?

I'm fairly happy with it - Friday was my first batch with this kettle (I received the new whirlpool arm Saturday, so used my old whirlpool arm for the brew day). I got a decent cone, albeit with a small hop bill. Some hops and break of course still scoot around the dam with the liquid flow.

 

[MilkStout]

I received the whirl pool arm and am very pleased. I think it is of very good quality and performed very well. Thanks again Bobby for a quality product and great service.

 

[AnOldUR]

Testing. Testing. Short version. Damn! Looks like it belongs there . . .
(throttled back so camera didn't get splashed on)

 

[Gavin C]

Testing. Testing. Short version. Damn! Looks like it belongs there . . .
(throttled back so camera didn't get splashed on)

That's a really beautiful low profile setup there.

 

[AnOldUR]

That's a really beautiful low profile setup there.

Thanks. The thermometer is new also. I had a 3" dial with a 2-1/2" stem, but the stem stuck further into the kettle and it was a pain getting my kettles neoprene insulation sleeve around the dial. This one has a short thermowell, so the thermometer slides off when I want to remove the sleeve. It's slower to react to temperature change, but plenty fast enough to keep up with my induction hob on the way up and my IC on the way down.

Between this thermometer and the Spin Cycle they'll be a lot less chance of catching the bag or hitting it with a stir spoon when I BIAB.

 

[Gavin C]

Thanks. The thermometer is new also. I had a 3" dial with a 2-1/2" stem, but the stem stuck further into the kettle and it was a pain getting my kettles neoprene insulation sleeve around the dial. This one has a short thermowell, so the thermometer slides off when I want to remove the sleeve. It's slower to react to temperature change, but plenty fast enough to keep up with my induction hob on the way up and my IC on the way down.

Between this thermometer and the Spin Cycle they'll be a lot less chance of catching the bag or hitting it with a stir spoon when I BIAB.

Thanks for the link. That is great price on a dial thermometer. Nice and squat and stubby. Ideal for my purposes too as a BIABer.

I've ditched mine to install my whirlpool. Just used it one time. Worked really well but had I the hole higher up I would for sure have wanted this product. (The version you got.)

 

[Sleepyemt]

Between that and the trub guard it should work very well

 

[Bobby_M]

And here's where I regret only making 100 in the first run. I got 150 more in the works but I hope they don't run out.

 

[The_Bishop]

Wow, they're sold out already?

 

[Hobnob]

I ordered one this morning! Another elegant solution from Bobby!

 

[Bobby_M]

Wow, they're sold out already?

No, I have about 50 left but I can see they will run out before I get more.

 

[BrunDog]

I am still looking for a way to restrict/nozzle the end of my BrewHardware 5/8" OD whirlpool arm to prevent cavitation. So don't need one of these, yet!

 

[PeteNMA]

I'm ready to pull the trigger on one of these as part of a big order to get my RIMS system going. When are the 2000W stainless elements going to be back in?