A few noon questions for my second batch

[sawalke4]

My gf gave me the coopers kit for my birthday because I was always saying that I wanted to brew my own beer. She gave me a red ale and dark ale kit extra. So I made the lager with the extract that it comes with and followed the directions exactly (i didn't know any better, before I found this place) and it came out ok. I think ill leave the bottles to condition for a few more weeks. Anyway I am now planning on making the red ale and have a few questions that I am confused with.
1) malting grains and specialty grains. The malting grains are used to produce the fermenting sugars and the specialty just to add aroma and flavor, is this correct? I was planning on using a dry malt extract in place of the sugar that comes with the kit, but if I steep grains, will this provide the sugars and not require the use of the DME but still use the coopers red ale extract? Or should I steep specialty grains only for flavor and still use the DME along with the coopers red ale extract? Or should I use malt grains and speciality grains and less DME but use the whole can of coopers? How do i calculate how much of each to use?
2) Hops. Should I use plugs of bittering hops during the boiling and flavoring hops at the end? What is the difference? are they different species or something or does the name just mean when to use them? Are they required when using the coopers extract because doesn't that have hops extract in there as well?
3) Secondary fermentation. Can I just keep the fermenting wort in the primary for three weeks instead of transferring it to a carboy?
4) Priming. Should I transfer to a priming bucket and add all the carbonation drops at once to the entire batch? or should I boil the whole pack of carbonation drops in water and add this syrup and mix in a priming bucket, then bottle?
sorry for the noob questions but all this is kinda confusing.

 

[ifishsum]

1. Steeping grains do not add significant sugars to the wort, they primarily contribute flavor and color so you'll still want to use the DME if you want to hit the intended OG. If you perform an a mini-mash with some base grains in addition to the specialty grains, then you can reduce or eliminate the DME.

2. Not really sure what you're asking. Bittering hops are added near the beginning of the boil and flavor/aroma hops are added closer to the end. They can be different hops, but they also may be the same depending on the recipe.

3. Absolutely. You may even like the result better with a long primary instead of a secondary.

4. The carbonation drops are made to put directly in each bottle in the recommended amount. So you would rack the beer to the bottling bucket, add the recommended number of carb drops to a bottle then fill it up. If you want to prime the whole batch at once (in the bottling bucket), I would recommend using powdered dextrose or sugar to make a syrup instead of the drops.

 

[DRoyLenz]

2) Hops. Should I use plugs of bittering hops during the boiling and flavoring hops at the end? What is the difference? are they different species or something or does the name just mean when to use them? Are they required when using the coopers extract because doesn't that have hops extract in there as well?

The longer you boil hops, the more IBUs (International Bitterness Units) you get from them by isomerizing the amino acids. As you boil them, however, you lose the aroma and taste that so many people like about "hoppy" beers. You will sometimes find recipes that use the same kind of hops as the "bittering" hops and the "aroma" hops. The bittering hops you boil for 45+ minutes, then the aroma hops you just add in the last few minutes of the boil. That way you get the bitterness you need out of the bittering hops, and the flavor/aroma you get from the aroma hops without boiling it away.

And as far as Plugs, versus Whole, versus Pellets of hops, they all have their own advantages and disadvantages.

Make sense?

 

[tomheff]

How did your gf get you the kit? I'm just curious because I'm a Coopers rep.

First off, let me say following the instructions on the beer kit is a good thing. It will insure that you will make the beer as Coopers Brewery has intended. Coopers Brewery has been making beers since 1865 and has 3 Master Brewers on staff.

Steeping grains does not provide any additional fermentable sugars, dry malt extract does.

All the Coopers beer kits contain bittering hops. The Original Series beer kits do not have any aroma hops. You can add aroma/bouquet in these kits by dry hopping.

You do not need to go to a secondary fermenter. You can age your beer in bottles. The sediment should drop to bottom of your Coopers fermenter by the end of 2 weeks.

The Coopers carbonation drops are designed to be added to the bottle before filling with beer. One drop per 12 oz bottle. If you have the Coopers equipment kit, 2 drops per 740 ml bottle.

 

[sawalke4]

How did your gf get you the kit? I'm just curious because I'm a Coopers rep.

First off, let me say following the instructions on the beer kit is a good thing. It will insure that you will make the beer as Coopers Brewery has intended. Coopers Brewery has been making beers since 1865 and has 3 Master Brewers on staff.

Steeping grains does not provide any additional fermentable sugars, dry malt extract does.

All the Coopers beer kits contain bittering hops. The Original Series beer kits do not have any aroma hops. You can add aroma/bouquet in these kits by dry hopping.

You do not need to go to a secondary fermenter. You can age your beer in bottles. The sediment should drop to bottom of your Coopers fermenter by the end of 2 weeks.

The Coopers carbonation drops are designed to be added to the bottle before filling with beer. One drop per 12 oz bottle. If you have the Coopers equipment kit, 2 drops per 740 ml bottle.

I'm not sure where she got the kit, it was a gift. How do you dry hop in the fermenter? Wouldn't i have to transfer to a secondary for this? wouldnt it be better to buy a separate pot and boil the wort and add hops to the boil. I know this isnt the brew that the coopers brew master intended but I'm trying to experiment and create my own. What would a good steeping grain be for the red ale? and how much? thanks!

 

[tomheff]

Nice gf. Do you live in Belize?

The appropriate time to add dry hops is after primary fermentation has completed. Primary fermentation will be completed after 4-5 days. Put your hops in a mesh or muslin bag. Add some sanitized marbles to the bag so it sinks. Let the hops sit for 5 days or so. Then bottle. I would use Kent Goldings hops for dry hopping the Real Ale.

As far as steeping grains go, maybe a light crystal malt. It depends on the color that you want to achieve. I would just start out with a 1/2 pound or less.

 

[LSDracula]

Since you are new to the site I'll introduce you to the mantra.
3 weeks in primary
3 weeks in bottle (at least)
contrary to kit instructions it is not harmful to leave your beer in the primary for more that 5-7 days it is actually beneficial.
Temperature is also crucial in the first 5-7 days. Keep your temp at the low end of the range for the yeast at least for the first 5-7 days. Longer temp maintenance is even better.

 

[brian_g]

My gf gave me the coopers kit for my birthday because I was always saying that I wanted to brew my own beer. She gave me a red ale and dark ale kit extra. So I made the lager with the extract that it comes with and followed the directions exactly (i didn't know any better, before I found this place) and it came out ok. I think ill leave the bottles to condition for a few more weeks. Anyway I am now planning on making the red ale and have a few questions that I am confused with.
1) malting grains and specialty grains. The malting grains are used to produce the fermenting sugars and the specialty just to add aroma and flavor, is this correct? I was planning on using a dry malt extract in place of the sugar that comes with the kit, but if I steep grains, will this provide the sugars and not require the use of the DME but still use the coopers red ale extract? Or should I steep specialty grains only for flavor and still use the DME along with the coopers red ale extract? Or should I use malt grains and speciality grains and less DME but use the whole can of coopers? How do i calculate how much of each to use?
2) Hops. Should I use plugs of bittering hops during the boiling and flavoring hops at the end? What is the difference? are they different species or something or does the name just mean when to use them? Are they required when using the coopers extract because doesn't that have hops extract in there as well?
3) Secondary fermentation. Can I just keep the fermenting wort in the primary for three weeks instead of transferring it to a carboy?
4) Priming. Should I transfer to a priming bucket and add all the carbonation drops at once to the entire batch? or should I boil the whole pack of carbonation drops in water and add this syrup and mix in a priming bucket, then bottle?
sorry for the noob questions but all this is kinda confusing.

1) If your doing a Cooper's kit, I say skip the specialty grains. Cooper's kits have already added hops and specialty grains. If you want to add specialty grains and boil your own hops, try a more advanced kit. Cooper's kits are designed to be fast and easy. This is just my opinion though. I only recommend two changes to the Cooper's kit instructions.

a) skip the sugar, add 3 lbs of DME or 3.3 lbs of LME

b) make it as a 5 gallon batch instead of 6.

Personally, I just don't see the sense in monkeying around with the recipe. (I've also added fruit flavor to the Cooper's wheat beer, and dry hoped the IPA.) Think about it like this, say you make grape koolaid, but you decide it's not good enough as is so you decide to get a bunch of grapes and press them into juice and add them to the koolaid. Why not just skip the koolaid altogether and press the grapes? This isn't a perfect example, because grape koolaid doesn't really taste like grape juice, but you get the idea.

2) same answer as (1). You don't want to boil a Cooper's kit. You will boil off the hop aroma. If you want to add hops, try a more advanced kit.

3) Secondary is optional. It's only for clarifying the beer. There are several people on this forum who prefer not to use a secondary, and have been pleased with the results. When I make a Cooper's kit, I usually skip the secondary, and often I bottle right from the primary.

4) Carb drops are meant to be added to the bottle. 1 for each 12oz bottle. If you add them to the bottling bucket, they probably wont dissolve right. If you want to prime the whole bucket at once, add 3/4 cup of corn sugar to the batch. Carb drops are also more expensive then corn sugar. Your paying for the convenience of being able to drop one in each bottle. If that method doesn't work well for you, buy regular corn sugar.