A few loose ends to tie up

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Inverted_Giraffe

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Well, I brewed my first batch a week and a half ago (partial-mash oatmeal stout) and it looks to be doing very well (from my limited experience). I did take pictures and videos of the entire process which I would like to eventually share for critique purposes, and to help others to see what I may have done correctly or incorrectly.

A few questions I would like to ask to tie up some loose ends:

1) The vial of White Labs for my last batch, I had sit out for about 6 hours prior to pitching, and vigorously shook at pitching (it did say to shake well :drunk:). Unfortunately, half of the yeast culture gushed out and I immediately tried to get what I could in the fermenter. Fermentation began within 10 hours and produced an inch of kraesen which sunk to the bottom after about 3 days. I have not tested FG yet (a little scared at this point to do anything that could affect the beer, coupled with a need to test the wine thief on a carboy of water first), so obviously this may be hard to answer, but I'm probably ok with what happened with the yeast geyser?

2) Similar to the last question, are there pros/cons, cut-off times, etc. for introducing more yeast into a fermenter after initial fermentation? In other words, can one add more yeast after a week and a half in the primary, if the FG is off?

3) I currently brew outside and use the outside tap to run water through the immersion chiller. I'm thinking that once we get to freezing temps, this won't be an option. None of the faucets in our house are the typical faucet; the kitchen one has that large detachable handle integrated into it, and the bathroom one is maybe semi-normal but a garden hose won't attach to that directly. What options do I have to continue using the immersion chiller in winter?

4) Has anyone else had problems with the immersion chiller not correctly fitting in their brew pot? I have an 8 gallon pot that had roughly 5 gallons of wort in it, but half of the immersion chiller was immersing the wort, the rest, air. I crushed down the immersion chiller (looks a little deformed now) to get more copper surface area in the wort, as I was starting to get worried when I couldn't get the wort temp under 100F after 15 or so minutes.

5) I noticed that the 3-piece airlock likes to leak its internal fluids if disturbed; I believe I lost an entire shot of vodka into the fermenter when I carried the carboy from outside to our basement. How will this affect the brew, and should I be looking at a s-type?

6) Do many people invest in air stones to aerate their wort?

7) Concerning the boil, is hotter better? I can crank the propane burner up to where the therm states @215-220F, which even at 5 gallons in an 8 gallon pot can cause boil overs if not continually stirred. At one point I cranked down the burner intensity to where it was still boiling, but I noticed that it wouldn't ever even come close to producing any foam on top. It wasn't until I cranked the intensity back up that the foam came back. Should I keep that intensity up?

8) The oatmeal stout is fermenting in a small closed storage space underneath the stairs that lead to the basement; it's a constant 64-66F there. Is that 64F getting too low? I fear as winter approaches I may need to find a different area if that temp drops any further.

9) I would like to brew the Irish Red this weekend, as the weather is forcasted to be nice; my concern is that the smack pack I got in two weeks ago has sort of ballooned, even though the nutrient pack inside is intact. I had put it in the fridge right after delivery, but curious if this yeast is going to be viable. I unfortunately do not (and won't until next week) have the option to utilize a second smack pack or make a yeast starter as I don't have the supplies on-hand and the closest HBST is likely over 3 hours away (I found one an hour away but it was very limited in selection, and no refrigeration in-store).

Whew... I think that's all; sorry for all the questions but thanks for everything I've learned so far in this community! Brewing is fun, yes? :ban:
 
To answer your questions:

1) RDWHAHB! Your fine.

2) Take a gravity reading. Your beer is probably done fermenting and your fine.

3) They make faucet adapters. http://www.midwestsupplies.com/faucet-adapter.html

4) Try some KY to get it to fit.

5) Boosts your ABV. It happens with both type. I recommend waiting to install your airlock until you have moved your fermenter to where you want it.

6) Yes, people do invest in oxygenation equipment. Especially if your doing high gravity beers or batches more then 5 gallon. Hard to shake 10 gal to aerate.

7) Once you have a boil, turn down your burner. You are only wasting propane and increasing your boil off rate. You want to match the heat from the burner with the heat lost from the kettle. Ambient temperature and wind play a huge factor in heat loss.

8) Nope, it's perfect temp. White labs WLP004 Optimum Fermentation Temp: 65-68°F

9) Make a yeast starter to check for viability.
 
I think I may have something to worry about...

I just took a specific gravity reading, twice, and both came out at 1.010; what went wrong to produce this?

The only thing I can think of, is that during my initial brew I had about 6.5 gallons of wort in the 8 gal pot and I had a near boil-over; being my first time I didn't know what to do as I didn't seem to be able to control the temp (and I was already a few hours in, had a few beers etc.). I freaked a little bit, while relaxed, and decided that I just got too liberal with my sparge where I was trying for a super-high conversion (I added no extra water unless it was sparged) or something noobish like that. Therefore I ended up with too much wart (probably not really, just should have turned down the burner a bit) but anyhow I ended up auto-siphoning out about two gallons of boiling wort into a discard bard so I could boil instead with 4.5 gallons in the pot, thinking I could simply top off later. Was this a no-no?

Any other thoughts on my odd SG reading?

Edit: Oh and unfortunately during my initital brew that ended up taking 6 hours and finished up in the dark, with the whole yeast explosion episode, I completely missed taking an OG reading so I have no idea what it was to start with.

Edit 2: Maybe I'm fine; doing some more reading shows that perhaps this is where the FG should be. I can't find the print-out of the recipe to see where the FG should be but I'll dig it up somewhere. I was looking on the hydrometer and reading the SG, and the column next to it states potential alcohol by volume at 1.3% which didn't make sense to me... but using a calc online I see that it's OG-FG, and typing in my numbers (assuming a OG of 1.070 which I think it was near) leads me to an acceptable 7.8% ABV. I'll have to do some more reading out what that ABV reading on the hydrometer really means...
 
Ignore the ABV gauge on your hydrometer. if you started at 1.070 and you're at 1.010 now, you're sitting pretty.
 
Yes, thinking the same here; thanks for that confirmation.

I would like some clarification on the dumping of the wort situation I described; is this bad, undesirable, doesn't matter, or really won't ruin a thing?

I suppose I get a little confused about all the topping up and stuff, thinking that would dilute the wort.
 
I'd say for a 5 gallon batch, 6.5 gallons of wort for the boil is about right (depending on your rate of boil off). I have to do partial boils and top off out of necessity, but a full boil like that is always the best way to go.

If you remove wort and then top off, yes, you're diluting. If you do a smaller boil with the same ingredients, you're just boiling a more concentrated wort to dilute later, and you should theoretically end up about the same. Problem is that can throw off OG readings (the wort and top off water will never mix entirely no matter how much you shake it), you won't get as much hop utilization and have to accomodate by using more hops, and a few other things. Point is, if you can sustain a big enough boil to have your full volume after boil off without having to top off, that's what you should do.
 
I'd say for a 5 gallon batch, 6.5 gallons of wort for the boil is about right (depending on your rate of boil off). I have to do partial boils and top off out of necessity, but a full boil like that is always the best way to go.

If you remove wort and then top off, yes, you're diluting. If you do a smaller boil with the same ingredients, you're just boiling a more concentrated wort to dilute later, and you should theoretically end up about the same. Problem is that can throw off OG readings (the wort and top off water will never mix entirely no matter how much you shake it), you won't get as much hop utilization and have to accomodate by using more hops, and a few other things. Point is, if you can sustain a big enough boil to have your full volume after boil off without having to top off, that's what you should do.

Makes sense; thanks. I'll be sure to control my heat better to prevent a guaranteed boil-over on 6.5 gal batches in a 8 gal pot.

How are other marking their gal marks on the pot; perm marker on outside/inside?
 
So just curious; if I happen to brew this weekend due to the nice weather and my Wyeast (which I cannot at this time make a starter for) happens to not be any good, can I pitch additional yeast say 4 days later?
 
another method to prevent boilovers is a product called Fermcap-S
4-5 drops as it begins to roll, and it just rolls. never foams up and over. Awesome stuff.

pitching additional yeast 4 days later is not a good idea - the yeast need oxygen INITIALLY, and you don't want to provide oxygen to the new batch of yeast - it's only good when you oxygenate the wort, not the beer (and after 4 days of yeast, it's mostly beer!).

if you can't make a starter, one pack of yeast will do the job. I did it that way for years. Yes, starters are better, and when you can get there, pay attention to yeast pitching volumes, but other things are equally, perhaps even more important, such as temperature control...

take your time, learn the process, welcome to the hobby!

edit: - mis-read.... if your yeast happens not to be any good??? rare, but does happen. Wyeast is a smack-pack. If you want to brew this weekend, smack that pack (break the inner pack of nutrient). It won't hurt to smack a day early. if it doesn't swell up, then you might be concerned, but if it swells, you have no problem.
 
another method to prevent boilovers is a product called Fermcap-S
4-5 drops as it begins to roll, and it just rolls. never foams up and over. Awesome stuff.

pitching additional yeast 4 days later is not a good idea - the yeast need oxygen INITIALLY, and you don't want to provide oxygen to the new batch of yeast - it's only good when you oxygenate the wort, not the beer (and after 4 days of yeast, it's mostly beer!).

if you can't make a starter, one pack of yeast will do the job. I did it that way for years. Yes, starters are better, and when you can get there, pay attention to yeast pitching volumes, but other things are equally, perhaps even more important, such as temperature control...

take your time, learn the process, welcome to the hobby!

Thanks; I forgot about that little oxygen detail there :D

Edit: Any idea on the ingredients in Fermcap-S? I am brewing organic and would like to keep out anything additional.

I'll have to hope for the best with this Smack Pack in the fridge; I think it'll work just fine. I plan on doing starters next week, and am very interested in doing yeast washing at bottling time.
 
So just curious; if I happen to brew this weekend due to the nice weather and my Wyeast (which I cannot at this time make a starter for) happens to not be any good, can I pitch additional yeast say 4 days later?

Yes, pitching more yeast if there is no start of fermentation is fine. Just have a packet of dry yeast handy. Something like nottingham is good because it has a clean flavor.
 
Fermcap-S is simethecone - you can take it for gas :D
I don't know if you'd call it 'organic' though...

and +1 to the post above. I keep a packet or two of dry yeast in my fridge for any possibilities
 
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