^what he said.
5 days is too short in the primary for just about any beer, but for something with such a high OG it's insane. Though I disagree with "at least a month in the secondary". I generally keep most beers in the primary for a good 4 weeks or so and don't even bother with secondary, as do many other brewers, and even then 4 weeks is longer than it needs - I wait that long mostly so that I can be pretty confident my beer has finished fermenting without having to constantly check gravity (some beers/yeasts need longer, but it's not typical). I'll check it once before I transfer to the bottling bucket, and will continue with bottling if the FG doesn't seem to high, though with this method I've *never* had it finish too high.
Like I said, I (and many of the best/most experienced brewers on this site) don't bother with secondary, and I recommend just simplifying it for yourself and sticking with a primary for typical beers. However, if you *insist* on using a secondary, there's something you must know...
The "secondary fermentor" is a misnomer. It's a term *only* used by homebrewers, which is unfortunate because it gives newer brewers the wrong idea. Professional brewers that use it generally call it a "bright tank" (or brite tank), because it's used to let suspended yeast and other particles drop out of the beer in order to make it clearer, or "bright", though for many homebrewers it's counterproductive because it can make it take *longer* for stuff to settle.
Why is this important to know? Well, the term "secondary fermentor" is a misnomer because it is NOT used for fermenting *whatsoever*, and thus is not a fermentor. What this means is that, if you want to transfer to a "secondary" (and again, I really recommend making it easier on yourself in the future and trying it with just a primary), you have to make sure that the beer has FINISHED fermenting before doing so. You clearly did not do so, and now you've got only a small fraction of the original yeast... no good.
Now, if it really IS just a case of racking it off the yeast too early, chances are it will still finish, but it will take much longer (since you have fewer yeast cells trying to do the same job). However, it's possible that the yeast could just stall, especially since it's a high gravity beer. So if you don't see any progress, your best bet is probably to pitch more yeast. If you know how to make a starter, make a big one. If you don't know, learn how... a beer this big should always be pitched from a large starter (ANY beer will benefit from pitching from a starter, but it's practically essential for beers over 1.070, along with a good amount of aeration, or ideally oxygenation). Pitch the starter at high krausen... if you have a stirplate it can be difficult to see, but it'll be a very thin layer, and 18 hours is a safe bet (usually longer if no stirplate is used, but it can - and should - be determined by sight if that's the case). The yeast is most active at high krausen, so it's like giving it a running start when you add it to your beer.
Anyways, what yeast strain did you use?