A couple more questions...

[Gonefishing]

This is the wiring diagram I came up with for the electric box for my brewery. It doesn't show the PID and controls for the SSRs because all that is in a separate box.
I am not sure whether to connect wires A, B, and C to N or ground...can someone please help me out with that?

 

[doug293cz]

Wires A, B, & C should all go to ground. Your pump outlet won't work the way it is wired (what voltage is the pump?.) I assume HERMS means the HERMS pump. Is this correct? Finally, for safety reasons, you need to add a DPST mechanical switch to provide positive disconnect of the hot wires. SSR's tend to fail in the on mode, and you need a way to turn things off in the case of SSR failure. SSR's also have high enough leakage current to give you a shock, even when operating correctly.

Brew on

 

[Gonefishing]

I did buy a stop switch but realized it's only rated for 10 amps, so I need to pick up another one.
So those 3 wires all go to ground and not neutral...just pretty much opposite what I figured. Glad I asked.
The pump is a 220v. "Herms" means the small element for heating the water that surrounds the coil that the wort gets pumped through to maintain temperature...hopefully. Right now all I really need is for the boil kettle to work though.

 

[doug293cz]

So, you have a water bath separate from your HLT for the HERMS heat exchanger? Most HERMS systems just put the heat exchanger coil in the HLT.

And how did you end up with a 220V pump? But, since that's what it is, the only thing missing from the pump outlet circuit is a connection from the pump SSR to the RED bus.

What are the wattages of your different elements? Since you only have a 30A supply circuit, you will be limited on how many elements you can drive simultaneously.

A low cost option for the main power control switch is a Leviton 3032 (or equivalent) DPST "light" switch. These are rated for 30A.

Brew on

 

[Gonefishing]

I ended up with a 220v pump being cheap and buying it on ebay for like $6.
Yes, I have a separate wayet bath for the heat exchanger. I don't remember where I got that idea from...it was many years ago now. It's a much smaller element, if I recall correctly it's about an 1100 watt. The boil is a 5500, and I don't remember the hlt size, though I think it might be 3500. I know I'm limited in what I can run at one time. If I ran it all off of my welder outlet I would not be, that's a 60 amp circuit.
I checked out that switch last night and am thinking that will be the choice.