75 Corny Kegs! ... with no bottoms :( -- Seeking brilliant ideas!

[vessels]

Ok.. so I searched around the forum for quite some time but didn't find a viable solution. There were many threads about gluing on bottoms and tops but I don't have the bottoms. If it's in there and I missed it I apologize in advance.

Here's my detailed dilemma... I stumbled on to about 75 Ball Lock corny kegs with no bottoms.
They are in good shape.. they just don't have their rubber bottoms.

"Does anyone out there have any crafty ideas of how to get some type of bottom on the kegs so they stand upright and sturdy?"

THANKS EVERYONE -- :rockin:

A couple things that I have thought of already ...

-Contact Cornelius and ask if they would sell me some... (doubtful though..what large company has time for us little guys now days?).

-Taking a few of my scrap kegs and cutting the metal into maybe 4 inch pieces / round strips and welding those round pieces onto the bottom (problem.. i am not a welder by any means haha).

 

[day_trippr]

Is there any chance that there's a PVC pipe type with an inside diameter that would just fit the bottom to where the welding ring is? It's probably a long shot, but if there was you could use slices just tall enough to get the keg bottom off the deck - maybe two inches? - and then glue them in place from underneath...

Cheers!

 

[vessels]

oooh.. I like it Day Trippr! That could be a cheap option. I will look into that!

 

[ChefRex]

Interested in selling some? I would conceder putting one in a press and making the bottom concave, you would loose a little volume but I think it would be feasible.

 

[k1ngl1ves]

I like the pvc idea. Smart.

Another option would be to make little 6" high crates out of 1x2's that fit snugly around the base. Maybe try pvc trim pieces instead of wood.

 

[conneryis007]

gorilla glue or epoxy 4 metal L bracket shelf hangers on the sides and bottom

have an injection molding plastic shop build you bottoms (more economical then you might think for 75 especially if you are selling them)

cut and roll sheet metal to the bottom of the sides and either glue it on or have somebody TIG weld it

And to go off of day trippers suggestion even if the pvc rings you cut are slightly to small you could still glue them to the bottom and not the sides (less secure of course)

 

[k1ngl1ves]

Sooo...

Are you gonna sell any of these babies? You know... just askin'...

 

[Ramitt]

Seems like for that many you could figure out a way to mold rubber or plastic to fit. If you can make a design in cad or vet someone to a company like this http://www.protolabs.com/lp/pm-rubb...q56cVXdVZMYlEtmLUUMiNSLrwjqLKjBDmsaArpb8P8HAQ can do small runs. Get a quote might be able to pay for it if you sell some. Might be a more local option or diy way to cast some form of rubber or plastic that might work.

 

[DSorenson]

I would build some simple square wooden bases to hold it upright- similar to a stand for a test tube.

 

[vessels]

Wow! Great replies! I am definitely interested in selling some. I don't need that many... well maybe I do? haha. Seriously though are any of you interested in taking the project on yourself if the price was right? If so, PM me with a fair offer.

ChefRex - do you think putting them in a press and making them concave would compromise their structural integrity?

Ramitt - The 3D print idea is brilliant! If I could get a scan of an old boot (which I do have a couple) I could use that CAD file to get a quote for a 3d print. I heard they are going to start putting 3d printers in Home Depots. I LOVE IT!

conneryis007 - Thanks for the tip on an injection molding company. I just Google'd them in my area and found about a half dozen. I'll make some calls!

Great ideas all... thanks! :rockin::rockin:

 

[ChefRex]

Where are you located, shipping could kill the deal, I have a bad keg i may have to play with, I'm sure it would require heating it to do it smooth, I think the integrity would remain.

 

[AnOldUR]

Seriously though are any of you interested in taking the project on yourself if the price was right? If so, PM me with a fair offer.

Where are you located?

 

[dyqik]

Crazy ideas:

Build giant 6-pack crates for them.

Glue old scooter or moped tires to the bottom.

 

[DSorenson]

ChefRex - do you think putting them in a press and making them concave would compromise their structural integrity?

Not a smart idea. Pressure vessels (propane tanks, kegs, gas canesters, etc.) are constructed so that they have no corners. Corners, edges and points are where pressure vessels experience the most pressure. Con-caving the bottom only spells trouble.

The keg might still work this way, but you will have seriously compromised it to the point where I wouldn't feel safe using it personally.

 

[madscientist451]

Use exterior grade plywood, and cut rings using a saber saw and bandsaw. Once fitted, coat plywood rings with marine grade epoxy.
Epoxy can be a little tricky to work with, but if you can homebrew, you'll figure it out. You can even skip the epoxy that's somewhat optional.
They'll get scuffed up over time and you might break a few, but they should be pretty cheap to make

 

[trimixdiver1]

Not a smart idea. Pressure vessels (propane tanks, kegs, gas canesters, etc.) are constructed so that they have no corners. Corners, edges and points are where pressure vessels experience the most pressure. Con-caving the bottom only spells trouble.

The keg might still work this way, but you will have seriously compromised it to the point where I wouldn't feel safe using it personally.

Also if you press them, the liquid dip tube would have to be trimmed

 

[ChefRex]

Not a smart idea. Pressure vessels (propane tanks, kegs, gas canesters, etc.) are constructed so that they have no corners. Corners, edges and points are where pressure vessels experience the most pressure. Con-caving the bottom only spells trouble.

The keg might still work this way, but you will have seriously compromised it to the point where I wouldn't feel safe using it personally.

Point taken, although at low pressures we're dealing with I don't think it would be an issue.

 

[DSorenson]

Point taken, although at low pressures we're dealing with I don't think it would be an issue.

It's true, it might not. I also have yet to take fluid dynamics (next semester), so I cannot really describe it mathematically. I believe you not only have to take into account the pressure of the gas in the headspace (from the CO2 tank) but also the weight of the water (beer) column on the bottom as well.

I think 10-15 PSI would probably not do much, but I would worry about the 30-45+ PSI people use in carb bursting.

 

[mmb]

Not a smart idea. Pressure vessels (propane tanks, kegs, gas canesters, etc.) are constructed so that they have no corners. Corners, edges and points are where pressure vessels experience the most pressure. Con-caving the bottom only spells trouble.

The keg might still work this way, but you will have seriously compromised it to the point where I wouldn't feel safe using it personally.

Many corny kegs have dimples and pressed bottoms to direct flow and allow for maximum drainage when they were used for soda.

Besides that, if the 50psi that the ball lock keg pressure release is set to blow was enough to push those out, all the dents and dings in the walls of the used kegs we have would have pushed out ages ago.

 

[mmb]

It's true, it might not. I also have yet to take fluid dynamics (next semester), so I cannot really describe it mathematically. I believe you not only have to take into account the pressure of the gas in the headspace (from the CO2 tank) but also the weight of the water (beer) column on the bottom as well.

I think 10-15 PSI would probably not do much, but I would worry about the 30-45+ PSI people use in carb bursting.

The side of my kegs rates the pressure to 135psi. I wouldn't let 30-45psi keep you up at night.

 

[brrman]

Here's an idea.

Make/find a ring of some material which is slight larger in diameter than the keg and perhaps 6 inches high. Perhaps crosscut a homer bucket. Coat it with vaseline. Suspend the keg (by a bungie, or something) so that it sits in the ring.

Now use expanding foam (you know the stuff you use to seal along new windows) in the ring. It should expand to fill the void and come up the side. Trim it once it has cured and remove the ring of material. voila!

 

[Braufessor]

I like the idea of making essentially a "test tube" rack for them..... be about the simplest..... if you have a keezer you could basically have two pieces of plywood with circles cut out of both that the kegs could slip through. One piece sits toward the bottom of the keezer, the other sits toward the top. Just slide each keg into its slot and it would be held in place, upright.

The other thing you could do with some of them is to (in conjunction with the "test tube" rack idea) is make some into fermenters. Could even cut hole in the lower portion for a dump valve to pull off trub/yeast.

 

[BBBF]

Here's an idea.

Make/find a ring of some material which is slight larger in diameter than the keg and perhaps 6 inches high. Perhaps crosscut a homer bucket. Coat it with vaseline. Suspend the keg (by a bungie, or something) so that it sits in the ring.

Now use expanding foam (you know the stuff you use to seal along new windows) in the ring. It should expand to fill the void and come up the side. Trim it once it has cured and remove the ring of material. voila!

Similar idea to this.

1. Find a container that is slightly bigger than the keg.
2. Line the container with plastic wrap.
3. Fill the container with caulk.
4. Put keg into container and let it dry
5. Remove keg and repeat 74 more times.

 

[number40fan]

I'll buy one for $30 shipped then give you one heck of a deal on bottoms after making them.

 

[Pzengel]

How about checking the diameter against a subs tank bottom protector.....
http://www.divebooty.com/products/143/tank_protectors.html

 

[DSorenson]

The side of my kegs rates the pressure to 135psi. I wouldn't let 30-45psi keep you up at night.

Again, this is where I wish I had taken fluid dynamics before having to get into this. The severity of the angle is extremely important. a con-caved bottom would mean angles less than ninety degrees. This is a drastically different angle than the dings and what not that you see in a typical keg.

The keg is rated for that PSI in it's current condition- that is to say before you concave the bottom. That will change once you mess with it.

Again: I am not saying that it's going to cause the vessel to fail, but it certainly isn't a good choice.

 

[day_trippr]

I suspect trying to concave a cornelius style keg bottom is likely to not end well...but, is there a need to support greater than, say, 30 psi in a home-brewing application?

Anyone remember what pressure a ball lock PRV is s'posed to unload at?

Cheers!

 

[DSorenson]

I suspect trying to concave a cornelius style keg bottom is likely to not end well...but, is there a need to support greater than, say, 30 psi in a home-brewing application?

Anyone remember what pressure a ball lock PRV is s'posed to unload at?

Cheers!

I like how you think, Day Tripper. You got a one way ticket to good ideas.

 

[mthompson]

I suspect trying to concave a cornelius style keg bottom is likely to not end well...but, is there a need to support greater than, say, 30 psi in a home-brewing application?

Anyone remember what pressure a ball lock PRV is s'posed to unload at?

Cheers!

Don't know the pressure, but one of our regulators failed open on a keg last year... The pressure relief never leaked, but the keg sure bowed out into a football!!! The lid o-ring was under enough pressure that it was flat and fell off the lid when we removed it.

We weren't sure if we should call the fire department in to help release it, or what to do. The co2 tank wasn't that old, so it was pretty full.... Definitely a tense and dangerous situation.

 

[ChefRex]

Don't know the pressure, but one of our regulators failed open on a keg last year... The pressure relief never leaked, but the keg sure bowed out into a football!!! The lid o-ring was under enough pressure that it was flat and fell off the lid when we removed it.

We weren't sure if we should call the fire department in to help release it, or what to do. The co2 tank wasn't that old, so it was pretty full.... Definitely a tense and dangerous situation.

Any pictures?

 

[DSorenson]

Don't know the pressure, but one of our regulators failed open on a keg last year... The pressure relief never leaked, but the keg sure bowed out into a football!!! The lid o-ring was under enough pressure that it was flat and fell off the lid when we removed it.

We weren't sure if we should call the fire department in to help release it, or what to do. The co2 tank wasn't that old, so it was pretty full.... Definitely a tense and dangerous situation.

Thats some scary stuff! glad you lived to tell about it!

That seems to imply to me that the pressure relief valve may not be designed to auto-release? I don't know why they wouldn't just build that into the keg, but man... that's too scary to consider.

(but seriously... was the beer okay?)

 

[mthompson]

Any pictures?

I'll see if we still have the keg and o-ring as a memento. I know it didn't sit right anymore, much like the kegs up above.

Thats some scary stuff! glad you lived to tell about it!

That seems to imply to me that the pressure relief valve may not be designed to auto-release? I don't know why they wouldn't just build that into the keg, but man... that's too scary to consider.

(but seriously... was the beer okay?)

I would have assumed these were a static relief deal, to aid in preventing over-pressurized situations. Murphy must have been hanging out in the fridge that day, because everything that could go wrong, did. I'm just still miffed that everything failed to the un-safe side.

Somehow the picnic tap survived the pressure as well....except about a month later, my brother-in-law went to pour a beer and had the misfortune of having the picnic tap disintegrate the moment he pressed the lever. All the guts went flying across the garage, and he was left holding a hose that was streaming beer out 15 ft. in every direction.

He is not a familiar with keg systems, so he was like a deer in headlights....one of us realized what was going on and reached in and pulled the disconnect off the keg.

Beer from the original mishap was fine after a long while of decompression.

 

[TrickyDick]

Here is an idea.

If you have a local high school, find out if they have a foundry in their shop. My high school did. You can ask the shop teacher if they have a metal shop with a foundry. Remove the bottom from a used keg as a template and have them make you some out of aluminum. Use plumbers putty or epoxy or something to bond them together. Might try one first and offer homebrew in exchange. When he tastes how good the homebrew is, you can tell him that you'll need 74 more of them in exchange for more!

TD


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

[TrickyDick]

Thats some scary stuff! glad you lived to tell about it!



That seems to imply to me that the pressure relief valve may not be designed to auto-release? I don't know why they wouldn't just build that into the keg, but man... that's too scary to consider.



(but seriously... was the beer okay?)

Scary indeed. I have one keg that does not have a PRV. The lid is much different than all my others, slightly domed and with a different latch mechanism. I don't think it could be fitted with a PRV. Because of the domed lid.

Considering retiring it,but hey it works.

TD


Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

 

[mthompson]

Now that this thread is back on track, you could also check for local woodcarvers or woodsmith shops....get ahold of someone with a lathe, and have them turn some wooden bases; basically a cylinder with a bowl on the inside that fits the keg bottom. Finish them with nice stains and spar urethane, then epoxy them on.

These could look really nice on a polished corny:

 

[HausBrauerei_Harvey]

I would make a box out of 2x4's and sheet it with 1/2" ply, then I would jigsaw/router out holes JUST big enough for the corney to slide into, and it uses the wood base as a stand. You could configure a keezer bottom in this way with the optimum layout and be in good shape.

Steve

 

[DSorenson]

Now that this thread is back on track, you could also check for local woodcarvers or woodsmith shops....get ahold of someone with a lathe, and have them turn some wooden bases; basically a cylinder with a bowl on the inside that fits the keg bottom. Finish them with nice stains and spar urethane, then epoxy them on.

These could look really nice on a polished corny:

Looks beautiful, but I would worry about water damage. I don't know about you guys, but my fridge seems to always have water in it somewhere.

 

[mthompson]

Looks beautiful, but I would worry about water damage. I don't know about you guys, but my fridge seems to always have water in it somewhere.

Perfect location for Spar urethane. It is marine finish; waterproof and flexible for expanding/contracting in exterior conditions.

Minwax® Helmsman® Spar Urethane is specially formulated as a protective clear finish for exterior or interior wood exposed to sunlight, water, or temperature changes.

• Contains UV blockers to reduce the sun's graying and fading effects.
• Forms a protective barrier against rain and moisture.
• Special oils allow the finish to expand and contract with the wood as seasons and temperatures change.
• Ideal for use on doors, windows, trim, bathroom cabinets, bar tops, kitchen countertops, outdoor furniture.

 

[NickTheGreat]

You can lathe plastic too. I like that idea.

 

[IslandLizard]

If you want to use these kegs in a keezer or so, where space is at a premium, don't make the base wider than the keg, or you won't be able to fit as many in.

It makes me wonder why these are all bootless. Was/is there a specific use for them that way?