75 Corny Kegs! ... with no bottoms :( -- Seeking brilliant ideas!

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'd agree, the easiest would be to use an existing rubber base and a batch of 2-part molding rubber to make a mold. Then put that on a keg, pour in a harder rubber 2part (for durability) and you'd have the contour of the keg bottom. Depending on how you prep the keg it may stick or you may need to epoxy it on.
A single mold would likely get you 10-15 parts, maybe more since it's a pretty simple shape. The stuff is really easy to work with, and you're not talking about it needing to be perfect.
 
I'd agree, the easiest would be to use an existing rubber base and a batch of 2-part molding rubber to make a mold. Then put that on a keg, pour in a harder rubber 2part (for durability) and you'd have the contour of the keg bottom. Depending on how you prep the keg it may stick or you may need to epoxy it on.
A single mold would likely get you 10-15 parts, maybe more since it's a pretty simple shape. The stuff is really easy to work with, and you're not talking about it needing to be perfect.
 
You can lathe plastic too. I like that idea.

Sure can! I've done it numerous times to make foot end caps for various pieces of furniture, and pens as well. I HDPE is pretty inexpensive, and it would make a really great bases, impervious to liquids. You can also spin copper on a wood lathe as well. I've made a few bowls that way, so corny keg bases wouldn't be impossible to make. As far as attachment, press fitting or soldering would be the way to go. Hdpe would definitely be the cheaper of the two;)
 
Make a giant test tube rack out of wood.
41t5DLwMRAL.jpg
 
Good idea on the plastic on a lathe!

The wood, would look nice, but I fear it would split along the grain from rough handling.

Concaving the bottom:Fluid dynamics and all that other stuff aside, when the bottom was domed, it was domed from a flat piece, meaning it's stretched all to hell.

To concave it, there is no place for the now bigger piece of metal to move to during the transition from convex to concave, so it will kink all to hell, and be as wrinkled as a sack full of buttholes!

THEN, that's where your problem would lie, pressure wise, along all those lines of stress and work hardened metal.

I wouldn't pressurize one with 30 PSI afterward!
 
Some really cool, complicated ideas here for a simple solution, IMO.

If they're out full/empty, store them upside down. on the lids

If they're fermenting, tip them away from the dip tube on a simple wooden rack.

If they're in a keezer, cut a piece of 2" foam board big enough to fit the bottom of the keezer and put slightly undersized holes in the foam in a pattern to fit the kegs in snugly, and rest the kegs in the holes vertically.

You have 75 kegs, they don't all need to be full (but that's helpful!), so take some empties and use them to help support the full ones in the keezer.

Keep it stink'en simple - brew more.
:rockin:
 
I rather doubt the OP actually intends to keep and use 75 kegs, and was considering ways to make them more marketable.

I for one would not be interested in buying weebles to hold my beers...

Cheers! ;)
 
I rather doubt the OP actually intends to keep and use 75 kegs, and was considering ways to make them more marketable.

I for one would not be interested in buying weebles to hold my beers...

Cheers! ;)

No real cost effective way of adding bottoms to them to make more marketable, IMHO just sell them as is, and understand you'll probably take a slight hit in profit, vs kegs with bottoms (depending on what you paid, probably not a big deal) Given the looming shortage of stainless cornies, I'm sure someone will take them off your hands.:D
 
Back
Top