70 quart Coleman Extreme Mash Tun w/ CPVC Manifold

[orion7144]

I can have my first running's (usually about 8 gallons) drained in under 5 min then the sparg of ~9 gallons in another 7 min. For my 14.5g pre boil volume.

 

[h4mmy86]

Increase your crush and you will get better efficiency.

I should have ran the grain thru my mill twice. The low setting on my drill was trying to burn out about half way thru my crush so things got a lil rushed on the second half of the grain bill.

The second was crushed by AHS.

 

[Bluelinebrewer]

I built an MLT very similar, ok almost identical, to this one. Used it today and I was pretty impressed! Thanks for the design idea!

 

[GreenDragon]

What diameter CPVC did you use?

 

[Bluelinebrewer]

I used 1/2". Mine looks pretty identical to the OPs. I tried to post a picture in my previous comment, but I accidentally posted the picture I had of his! Lol. Just used mine this weekend and it worked great!

 

[kapbrew13]

I should have ran the grain thru my mill twice. The low setting on my drill was trying to burn out about half way thru my crush so things got a lil rushed on the second half of the grain bill.

The second was crushed by AHS.

I got good results setting my mill to 0.027. Barley crusher.

 

[IslandLizard]

I used 1/2". Mine looks pretty identical to the OPs. I tried to post a picture in my previous comment, but I accidentally posted the picture I had of his!...

I thought they looked a bit too similar

I just bought the 52 gallon [EDIT: This should be 52 quart! (=13 gallon)] version of that cooler ($31, Sears) and all the 1/2" cpvc fittings and pipe the OP has in his picture ($6.75, HD).

I'm ready to build it.

Few questions and comments:
1. You guys don't glue any of the manifold parts together? Just friction-fit?
Is that so you can clean them better? Any other reason?

2. What did you use to cut the slots? What should their width be, preferably?
How do you remove the burs from the inside?

3. I took the hinges off so the lid is detached. Cooler lids continually dropping on my hands drives me nuts.

4. Is it needed to install the bulk head valve? Any reason it should be stainless or will brass be just fine?
Reason is, I've seen some alternatives. One design routes a 3/8" OD vinyl tube through the existing spigot. It's pretty snug already but I could add some silicone to make a wort-tight seal. A small in-line valve will control the flow.

5. How are they holding up with the hot water? Any noticeable buckling or warping of the insides? Do you use a hot pre-heat before adding the strike water to volume?

Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[kapbrew13]

No glueing. Makes it easy to take apart and flush out crap.
Used a dremel tool to cut slots.
Preheat mine with hot water from sink. I keep my hot water hot!

 

[SteveHeff]

I have a metal mesh manifold that was working like crap until a friend suggested rice hulls. After a bit of reworking the manifold (mesh manipulation) and the rice hulls, I was able to increase my eff. from 67% up to 74. I would love to take the time and have a nicely designed CPVC formed in the bottom of mine. The pics here look great. Thanks for the inspiration!

 

[orion7144]

I have a metal mesh manifold that was working like crap until a friend suggested rice hulls. After a bit of reworking the manifold (mesh manipulation) and the rice hulls, I was able to increase my eff. from 67% up to 74. I would love to take the time and have a nicely designed CPVC formed in the bottom of mine. The pics here look great. Thanks for the inspiration!

If you have a dremel and $6 it literally takes less than 5 min to create. you don't have to be perfect cutting the slits.

 

[kapbrew13]

I thought they looked a bit too similar

I just bought the 52 gallon version...

Is this right? 52 gallons? How big is that? The size of a full size fridge?

 

[IslandLizard]

Is this right? 52 gallons? How big is that? The size of a full size fridge?

Ah, caught me there. 52 quarts it is.

 

[h4mmy86]

Yeah, I used half inch cpvc. Sorry it took me so long to reply.

 

[rykosnd]

I have a similar manifold and I know that CPVC is safe for use with drinking water. My concern is that the smooth inside of the CPVC is safe but when you cut the slits thru it exposes the porous inner part if the CPVC to the wort. Anyone know if this is of any concern or am I just paranoid?

 

[kapbrew13]

I have a similar manifold and I know that CPVC is safe for use with drinking water. My concern is that the smooth inside of the CPVC is safe but when you cut the slits thru it exposes the porous inner part if the CPVC to the wort. Anyone know if this is of any concern or am I just paranoid?

You'll be boiling the runnings. If paranoid , soak parts in vinegar and good hot wash.

 

[h4mmy86]

I have a similar manifold and I know that CPVC is safe for use with drinking water. My concern is that the smooth inside of the CPVC is safe but when you cut the slits thru it exposes the porous inner part if the CPVC to the wort. Anyone know if this is of any concern or am I just paranoid?

You're paranoid. There are no porous inners, its all the same plastic. RDWHAHB

 

[DirtyOldDuck]

I've been using a cpvc manifold for over a year. Because I batch sparge, runoff speed is not important after vorlaufing. Therefore, I put lots of slots and alternating drilled holes in mine. I want it to drain fast. Also, if you batch sparge, you don't really have to worry about channeling like you do with continuous fly sparging. The first time your mash paddle separates one of the fittings in your manifold, you will want to glue it together -ask me how I know. My manifold is easily removable from the mash tun and very easy to clean.

Here is my best tip - several weeks ago I was brewing a big RIS and I had a very fine crush. I had never needed rice hulls before and while researching that I came across a great suggestion. I would give credit to whomever gave me this idea but I don't remember - I'm sure I read it on HBT. Here it is: before mashing, put the manifold inside a five gallon paint strainer bag. I just tie the bag around the piece that connects the manifold to the drain/ball valve. The fine mesh effectively lauters the wort before it even enters the manifold. It almost eliminates the need to vorlauf because almost nothing but clear wort gets in the manifold in the first place.

 

[orion7144]

Ive been thinking oabout putting a big BIAB bag in my cooler before adding grain so your suggestion is pretty much the same thing so I may try it Saturday.

 

[kapbrew13]

I've been using a cpvc manifold for over a year. Because I batch sparge, runoff speed is not important after vorlaufing. Therefore, I put lots of slots and alternating drilled holes in mine. I want it to drain fast. Also, if you batch sparge, you don't really have to worry about channeling like you do with continuous fly sparging. The first time your mash paddle separates one of the fittings in your manifold, you will want to glue it together -ask me how I know. My manifold is easily removable from the mash tun and very easy to clean.

Here is my best tip - several weeks ago I was brewing a big RIS and I had a very fine crush. I had never needed rice hulls before and while researching that I came across a great suggestion. I would give credit to whomever gave me this idea but I don't remember - I'm sure I read it on HBT. Here it is: before mashing, put the manifold inside a five gallon paint strainer bag. I just tie the bag around the piece that connects the manifold to the drain/ball valve. The fine mesh effectively lauters the wort before it even enters the manifold. It almost eliminates the need to vorlauf because almost nothing but clear wort gets in the manifold in the first place.

I tried the strainer trick but its another thing to clean. I have a cpvc manifold and didn't glue it. Guess I've had better luck. But mine does fit tight in the cooler.
Have no issues vorloufing about 1 gallon and letting her rip. I guess everyone has their own experiences during brew day.

 

[DirtyOldDuck]

I tried the strainer trick but its another thing to clean. I have a cpvc manifold and didn't glue it. Guess I've had better luck. But mine does fit tight in the cooler.
Have no issues vorloufing about 1 gallon and letting her rip. I guess everyone has their own experiences during brew day.

I almost edited my post to mention the extra cleaning but was too lazy. I dump my mash tun while bringing the wort to boil. After rinsing the tun, I fill it with hot water and Oxy and use it to soak hoses and other equipment so I just throw the bag in there.

I didn't have any problem with my manifold for quite a few brews, but eventually the connections loosened up and after having it come apart once I never wanted to have to deal with that mess again.

I actually tried the bag to prevent the fine crush from clogging the manifold, not because of a problem with vorlaufing. The fact that the runoff was so clear was an additional benefit. It did such a good job of separating the grain and husks from the wort that I decided to keep doing it.

 

[kapbrew13]

I almost edited my post to mention the extra cleaning but was too lazy. I dump my mash tun while bringing the wort to boil. After rinsing the tun, I fill it with hot water and Oxy and use it to soak hoses and other equipment so I just throw the bag in there.

I didn't have any problem with my manifold for quite a few brews, but eventually the connections loosened up and after having it come apart once I never wanted to have to deal with that mess again.

I actually tried the bag to prevent the fine crush from clogging the manifold, not because of a problem with vorlaufing. The fact that the runoff was so clear was an additional benefit. It did such a good job of separating the grain and husks from the wort that I decided to keep doing it.

All those little grain bits stuck in the bag was driving me crazy. LOL!!

 

[davsow]

Any reason I shouldn't make one long cut down the center of all the pipe? Seems like I could just pass it through the table saw and save a bunch of time. Thoughts?

 

[kapbrew13]

Any reason I shouldn't make one long cut down the center of all the pipe? Seems like I could just pass it through the table saw and save a bunch of time. Thoughts?

Weakens the plastic cylinder? Maybe long cut, stop, long cut, stop, repeat??

 

[GrogNerd]

Any reason I shouldn't make one long cut down the center of all the pipe? Seems like I could just pass it through the table saw and save a bunch of time. Thoughts?

wow

never even occurred to me to do it that way, and I can't think of a reason not to

only $4 for the cpvc pipe to find out

 

[GrogNerd]

Weakens the plastic cylinder? Maybe long cut, stop, long cut, stop, repeat??

thread I started a while back someone mentioned that rows of slots weakened the structure

wish I had a saw that I could test this out. I kept some of the extra pipe I used for my manifold

 

[IslandLizard]

Any reason I shouldn't make one long cut down the center of all the pipe? Seems like I could just pass it through the table saw and save a bunch of time. Thoughts?

Now that's an idea!

Manifolds and Lautering
I still haven't cut mine waiting for the right inspiration. I read the whole appendix in Palmer's book on manifold design and lautering efficiency. It all makes more sense now than before.

For batch sparging nothing seems very critical, but good design comes into play for continuous sparging. Just heating the recirculating wort to the right temperature is a major hurdle to overcome if one chooses to go that way.

Kerf width
There is no mention of kerf width, but is shouldn't be too wide or lots of little bits go through or too narrow and things get stuck in there. The copper example has a typical steel saw blade cut. The cpvc cuts are somewhat wider from what I see. You could use an oscillating saw or reciprocating saw too. Their blades are narrower.

I think the table saw kerf is too wide (1/8"). I may put a layer of voile in the bottom or use a voile liner to keep the manifold from plugging up, if that turns out to be a problem.

Cleaning
I'm with everyone on eliminating more things to clean, but the grain bags I now use on the bottom of the colander during partial mashes are easy to wash clean in a tub of water. And we have a big cooler tub now.

On gluing...
I feel that if the friction-fit manifold fits tightly between the mashtun walls, it will not come apart easily when stirring the mash. Still, I probably like to glue it together just in case. Rinsing it out well, followed by some PBW treatment should clean it, no? What can stay in there that's bad? Lactobacillus? That gets killed during the boil isn't it?

 

[IslandLizard]

thread I started a while back someone mentioned that rows of slots weakened the structure

wish I had a saw that I could test this out. I kept some of the extra pipe I used for my manifold

Thank you! I was looking for a thread on that. Searching here is not easy. Too many returns.

Speaking of which, anyone found an easy way to do continuous sparging, with manually monitoring the mash temps?

 

[GrogNerd]

Thank you! I was looking for a thread on that. Searching here is not easy. Too many returns.

Speaking of which, anyone found an easy way to do continuous sparging, with manually monitoring the mash temps?

you can check at the bottom of these pages, will list "similar" threads, there are quite a few on converted coolers and many specifically about the 70-quart

i'm trying to find the one where someone included pictures of their setup for fly sparging, so it can be done. i just can't find it

EDIT: effme, listen to my own advice. top link in similar threads. not the specific one I was looking for, but is about fly sparging with the 70-quart

 

[davsow]

Weakens the plastic cylinder? Maybe long cut, stop, long cut, stop, repeat??

Yeah i thought about that. I'm going to give it a shot this weekend and see how it builds out. I could even use a grinder and decrease width of cut and shorten the lengths of the cut. ill let everyone know if it goes well. Thanks for the comments.

 

[IslandLizard]

you can check at the bottom of these pages, will list "similar" threads...

Thanks for the hint and the links.

How do they raise the temperature in the fly sparge?

It looks quite easy with a RIMS tube etc., but that's a lot of specialized stuff to buy. I have the March pump but tube and controller are key too.