6-20R receptacle in brew panel?

[doug293cz]

That is what I did but it tripped as soon as it was plugged in. The electrician was frustrated because everything was wired right, until we googled it, and Speed Queens have a design flaw. Something about the motor mounts shorting or something. They make an isolation kit that fixes it but it's not worth the effort.

Didn't know that about Speed Queens. Good reason to avoid them.

Brew on

 

[Shwagger]

Lol, they're still the best!

 

[Shwagger]

Im deep into this build now, getting the last few things together. Any reason I can't use a 3-wire dryer cord to run power from my panel to the 5500w heating element? It's 10 AWG wire. Just would have to cut the plug off and hard wire into the panel and the element. I have an extra cord from my dryer conversion laying around

 

[sibelman]

I wouldn't hard wire, at least not at both ends. The wire is adequate though.

 

[Deadalus]

Im deep into this build now, getting the last few things together. Any reason I can't use a 3-wire dryer cord to run power from my panel to the 5500w heating element? It's 10 AWG wire. Just would have to cut the plug off and hard wire into the panel and the element. I have an extra cord from my dryer conversion laying around

You mentioned having a TC port for the element. Have you bought the element already? You want one that can plug in.

Not sure what type dryer cord is. The type of cord I used for plugging my panel to its outlet and for the elements to the panel is SJEOOW (10 awg, 30 amp panel). I used to brew outside before I added ventilation and the cord is rated for indoor outdoor use. I was rolling my rig in and out of the garage and needed a longer cord to plug in so I bought about 25-30 ft. Another cord source could be a generator extension cord. The one for my generator is actually the same plug as my panel to outlet.

And a tip I picked up here was to put a good strain relief on the panel power in if hardwired and the panel moves around. I changed that out on mine when I upgraded.

 

[Shwagger]

You mentioned having a TC port for the element. Have you bought the element already? You want one that can plug in.

Not sure what type dryer cord is. The type of cord I used for plugging my panel to its outlet and for the elements to the panel is SJEOOW (10 awg, 30 amp panel). I used to brew outside before I added ventilation and the cord is rated for indoor outdoor use. I was rolling my rig in and out of the garage and needed a longer cord to plug in so I bought about 25-30 ft. Another cord source could be a generator extension cord. The one for my generator is actually the same plug as my panel to outlet.

And a tip I picked up here was to put a good strain relief on the panel power in if hardwired and the panel moves around. I changed that out on mine when I upgraded.

I'll post a pic of the cord when I get home. Basic 3 wire dryer cord. I have an element but it's not corded. It was from Bobby. One end of whatever wire I use will have a plug to plug into my panel. The other end will wire directly to the element. And the element is on a triclamp and it's removable. The wire in using to plug the panel into the wall is a heavy 4 wire dryer cord

 

[Deadalus]

The dryer cord sounds fine, I looked at mine before I posted initially today but couldn't reach a spot to see if it was labelled. I mentioned the other type in part because you were going to cut the plug off it and maybe the other type was cheaper, maybe longer if needed, or perhaps slightly more suitable depending on your plans.

I will try one more time however and say it will likely work out better to not wire your element to the cord. Even though it's going on your HLT, from time to time you will want to clean the HLT or every time even. You could pop the element out, but it will be connected to the wire awkwardly. Leaving the cord on but unplugged, also awkward cleaning. My HLT is the heaviest vessel, doesn't fit well in the sink. I originally had a cord wired running to a vessel mounted junction box. I upgraded to a TC port and an element with a plug. So much easier to work with any time the vessel needs to be moved.

 

[mashdar]

Not sure what code says about putting a 20A rated outlet on a 30A capable circuit,

If we're going by the book, it's technically supposed to be fused down to 20A. (2020 NEC 210.21(B)(1) and (3))

 

[Shwagger]

The dryer cord sounds fine, I looked at mine before I posted initially today but couldn't reach a spot to see if it was labelled. I mentioned the other type in part because you were going to cut the plug off it and maybe the other type was cheaper, maybe longer if needed, or perhaps slightly more suitable depending on your plans.

I will try one more time however and say it will likely work out better to not wire your element to the cord. Even though it's going on your HLT, from time to time you will want to clean the HLT or every time even. You could pop the element out, but it will be connected to the wire awkwardly. Leaving the cord on but unplugged, also awkward cleaning. My HLT is the heaviest vessel, doesn't fit well in the sink. I originally had a cord wired running to a vessel mounted junction box. I upgraded to a TC port and an element with a plug. So much easier to work with any time the vessel needs to be moved.

Post a pic of your plug element. I'd like to see what you mean.

 

[sibelman]

end will wire directly to the element.

You'll be needing some kind of enclosure to cover this connection. Perhaps one of these?

 

[Shwagger]

You'll be needing some kind of enclosure to cover this connection. Perhaps one of these?

That's what I have

 

[Shwagger]

This is what I'm thinking of using for the element

 

[sibelman]

This is what I'm thinking of using for the element

I use one of those between the wall outlet and my GFCI.

 

[Deadalus]

Post a pic of your plug element. I'd like to see what you mean.

Here you go: HLT element plug, element- panel plugs, & strain relief. The black discoloration is a paste @Bobby_M at Brewhardware recommends for the contacts.

 

[Broken Crow]

This is what I'm thinking of using for the element

That cord is not gonna fit properly into a strain-relief on the element and that's an area you really want closed up in the event of a boil-over, plus it looks kinda short...how close to the wet stuff do you want your panel?
I highly recommend getting the 'proper' round cable: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/cable10.htm
...this is a buy once cry once area, but if you're on a super tight budget, you can always look to amazon or ebay or wherever and buy a 10/3 RV or generator extension cord and remove the plugs.

 

[Deadalus]

This is what I'm thinking of using for the element

I ended up using that type of wire between my house panel and dryer outlet. I found it to be a real PITA to strip! Might be a tool for it or an easy way to do it but it was annoying. It also doesn't clamp as easy, probably needs a specific clamp being flat.

My current dryer cord is round and more like the black cords on my brew panel.

 

[Deadalus]

That cord is not gonna fit properly into a strain-relief on the element and that's an area you really want closed up in the event of a boil-over, plus it looks kinda short...how close to the wet stuff do you want your panel?
I highly recommend getting the 'proper' round cable: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/cable10.htm
...this is a buy once cry once area, but if you're on a super tight budget, you can always look to amazon or ebay or wherever and buy a 10/3 RV or generator extension cord and remove the plugs.

Not just me haha. He'll need the 10/4 as listed at Brewhardware(R, B, W, G). Isn't the terminology really 10/3 with ground?

 

[Shwagger]

Ahh yes, strain relief. Didn't catch that. Definitely won't work then. Compared to my panel wiring lol. the element is H H G, no 4th wire

 

[Broken Crow]

Not just me haha. He'll need the 10/4 as listed at Brewhardware(R, B, W, G). Isn't the terminology really 10/3 with ground?

Yeah...I just saw that pic today and for the element you only need the 10/3. For my own first build I 'super-economized' without compromising safety: I pull my stove away and borrow the power outlet to brew, so I went to a local appliance repair shop and bought a stove/dryer cord from their scrap bin and made a plug adapter, bought an ebay 10/3 extension cord for my element and an amazon 10/4 extension cord for my controller...they were a bit larger than proper sjeoow so I picked up strain-reliefs from a local hardware store...got the length I need to keep the controller away fro the wet-risk area and keep all the enclosures sealed.

 

[sibelman]

I like the round cord too. But strain relief works with some devices:

 

[Deadalus]

Yeah...I just saw that pic today and for the element you only need the 10/3. For my own first build I 'super-economized' without compromising safety: I pull my stove away and borrow the power outlet to brew, so I went to a local appliance repair shop and bought a stove/dryer cord from their scrap bin and made a plug adapter, bought an ebay 10/3 extension cord for my element and an amazon 10/4 extension cord for my controller...they were a bit larger than proper sjeoow so I picked up strain-reliefs from a local hardware store...got the length I need to keep the controller away fro the wet-risk area and keep all the enclosures sealed.

Duh my bad, it's for the element. (I saw the white wire and was looking for red.)

I think the nomenclature is 10/2 with ground however. Not really to argue but just to make sure one gets the # of wires they need. Here just the 2 hots and the ground.

 

[Broken Crow]

Duh my bad, it's for the element. (I saw the white wire and was looking for red.)

I think the nomenclature is 10/2 with ground however. Not really to argue but just to make sure one gets the # of wires they need. Here just the 2 hots and the ground.

Dunno why that made me laugh... the part of my brain that works with numbers is shot..but hey: I always look for the red too and on that note I should mention: The extension cords on global online retailer sites don't always use the 'correct' colour conductors, but I did use a gauge to verify that what I bought did have the proper 10 gauge stranded wire...oh; and one of the cords I bought was an L14-30A, so I only cut off one end and used the molded on plug..was quite handy and saved a few bucks on one of the plugs.

 

[mashdar]

Duh my bad, it's for the element. (I saw the white wire and was looking for red.)

I think the nomenclature is 10/2 with ground however. Not really to argue but just to make sure one gets the # of wires they need. Here just the 2 hots and the ground.

Bizarrely, SJO 10/3 counts the ground, i.e. black white green. Caveat emptor. You have to figure out what the standard is for what you're buying.

edit: this is in contrast to NM/UF/SE which don't count the ground.

 

[Deadalus]

Bizarrely, SJO 10/3 counts the ground, i.e. black white green. Caveat emptor. You have to figure out what the standard is for what you're buying.

edit: this is in contrast to NM/UF/SE which don't count the ground.

Ah so maybe standard based. I had thought perhaps it was based on whether the ground had insulation but that didn't hold up on at least one example I had seen.

I think, and sorry if getting off topic, that it might be a result of the ground wire not always needing to be the same gauge. That or maybe the switch in home wiring when ground wires were added.

I've ordered from wholesale type places before where it's mainly a list of different gauges so I try to be extra careful reading the descriptions. They don't always have pictures.

 

[DavidWood2115]

Bizarrely, SJO 10/3 counts the ground, i.e. black white green. Caveat emptor. You have to figure out what the standard is for what you're buying.

edit: this is in contrast to NM/UF/SE which don't count the ground.

I ran into this same issue when I built my system last year. I bought 6 feet of 10/3 SJO at Home Depot, only to find that it didn't have a ground. It's an hour from my brewery back to the land of big boxes, so I went to my local electrical supply store (that I didn't even realize was there before I started looking) and bought 6 feet of 10/4. I figured the difference in fuel cost would make it worthwhile, much less the 2+ hours of my time. To my surprise, 6 feet of 10/4 was CHEAPER at my local electrical supply store than 6 feet of 10/3 at Home Depot! Wow, my head nearly exploded!

 

[Shwagger]

I ran into this same issue when I built my system last year. I bought 6 feet of 10/3 SJO at Home Depot, only to find that it didn't have a ground. It's an hour from my brewery back to the land of big boxes, so I went to my local electrical supply store (that I didn't even realize was there before I started looking) and bought 6 feet of 10/4. I figured the difference in fuel cost would make it worthwhile, much less the 2+ hours of my time. To my surprise, 6 feet of 10/4 was CHEAPER at my local electrical supply store than 6 feet of 10/3 at Home Depot! Wow, my head nearly exploded!

I had an electrician run new Romex for my dryer outlet from across the house with material for about the same price it would have cost me to just buy the Romex at the Home Despot.

 

[whoaru99]

Bizarrely, SJO 10/3 counts the ground, i.e. black white green. Caveat emptor. You have to figure out what the standard is for what you're buying.

edit: this is in contrast to NM/UF/SE which don't count the ground.

Generally speaking, the nomenclature relative to portable cordage includes all conductors.

The nomenclature for fixed wiring (for lack of better term), typically counts only the current-carrying conductors.

Probably are examples otherwise but I'd guess the above will keep most people on track most of the time.

 

[Shwagger]

Little help wiring up a DVA 120. The instructions from auber ins. has the 2 wires for voltage on either end of a heater:

I am using this guide and it has the wires to the 240 side of the main power contactor:

I don't know if I care what the power going to the heater is doing. Just concerned what the power in the system is at. Which way is correct? Tyia

 

[Deadalus]

I probably won't explain this correctly. The way the panel manual shows it will tell you how much current and power is drawn by the element. Which is the lion's share of what is being used. I think I tried to switch the wire going through the ring to the other side of the contact thinking that side includes the 120V hot bus. I don't recall that working and think I may have put it back but I am brewing right now so I can't open my panel.

The hot bus has a 7 amp fuse. So no more than that and you know if the pump(s) are on. The meter is interesting but not particularly necessary as far as I know.

What I think you may be saying wrong is that one side is 240 on the contactor. I think both sides are 120V since the hot bus runs off one side. I think the circuits are separate inside but opened and closed together.

 

[Shwagger]

I probably won't explain this correctly. The way the panel manual shows it will tell you how much current and power is drawn by the element. Which is the lion's share of what is being used. I think I tried to switch the wire going through the ring to the other side of the contact thinking that side includes the 120V hot bus. I don't recall that working and think I may have put it back but I am brewing right now so I can't open my panel.

The hot bus has a 7 amp fuse. So no more than that and you know if the pump(s) are on. The meter is interesting but not particularly necessary as far as I know.

What I think you may be saying wrong is that one side is 240 on the contactor. I think both sides are 120V since the hot bus runs off one side. I think the circuits are separate inside but opened and closed together.

Yes correct, each spade or tab is 120, left and right side of the contactor. The coil side is 120 too of course.