50 amp "plug and play" kettle questions

[Chrisl77]

so this is all kind of getting convoluted.

Maybe I should ask this instead.


What is the cheapest/safest/simplest way to use my 50amp outlet? In other words, what is the least amount of work, cheapest, but also "safe"?


What are the downsides of just using a 6 guage or 10 guage wire that plugs directly into the wall on one side and is connected to a single 5500w element on the other?

Plugging a 5500 watt element directly into the wall without atleast a way to control the power output will produce an insane boil. I have a 20 gallon pot with a 5500 watt element in it. If I were to set the element to full power I would get a very large boil off rate. Probably over 2 gallons an hour.

 

[Bobby_M]

So, for example, if I plug a 100W ( < 1 amp) trouble light into a 120 V outlet on 20 A circuit I need to install a separate overcurrent device unless the cord is 12 gauge or larger? I didn't know that and, apparently, neither do the manufacturers of most of the devices I have in my house.

Does this make any sense? If you buy a 14 gauge extension cord is it labeled 'Don't plug into a 20 amp circuit'. No, it says 'Don't use for loads over 15 amps'.
If I look at the DC power supply for one of my disc drives that has a line cord is that cord 12 gauge even though the device draws less than an amp.? No. Are there any current limiting devices in the feed? No.

Perhaps I'm not understanding something.

I'm not well versed in NEC rules so I'm admittedly pulling this one out of my ass. I see where you're going with this. However, plugging a UL listed 1 amp draw device into a 15/20 amp branch circuit is different than plugging a home built high amp draw (30amp) "contraption" into a 50 amp dedicated circuit. 20 amps is a pretty big delta between cable ampacity and the next upstream overcurrect protection device.

I'm not well convinced it's an imminent danger situation and I think it's similar to splitting a 50amp capable circuit into two 23amp loads in the control panel with a simple lug/tap block without two dedicated 25amp circuit breakers.

I think the shorter the wire run, the safer I'd feel about it even if that's irrational.

Sorry for the derail OP..
To answer your question, if you demand to be protected with GFCI protection, there really is no plug and play. Could you wire an element directly to a plug and plug it in there? Yes, absolutely and it will heat liquid as you'd expect. You'd have no temp control and no power control that way.

 

[Chrisl77]

To be safe I would just build the panel in post 14. Get a din mounted 25 amp breaker that you can put inside the panel and wire it on the 2 hot wires going to the element right before it. That will give you the overload protection dedicated just to the element. I have a 2 element panel each of my elements have a 25 amp breaker like this.

Edit
What kind of budget are you working with? If your budget permits you could get one of these kits. Granted it has a little extra then you are looking for but all you need to add is a pid, enclosure, and the element stuff.

 

[ajdelange]

To answer your question, if you demand to be protected with GFCI protection, there really is no plug and play.

That reminded me of something. There is a 'plug and play' solution but wait till you see the price!
http://www.grainger.com/product/POWER-FIRST-Cord-Set-2XYT1?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/2XYR9_AS01?$smthumb$

 

[lschiavo]

That reminded me of something. There is a 'plug and play' solution but wait till you see the price!
http://www.grainger.com/product/POWER-FIRST-Cord-Set-2XYT1?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/2XYR9_AS01?$smthumb$

Thats only 30A plug and play I bet a 50A version is a few bucks more.