3V-Induction System

[JAReeves]

So I am slowly moving in the direction of a 3V system from the modified propane-based BIAB (w/MT) I have been using. I love the simplicity of BIAB, and I am planning on using the bag as a grain filter for my batch sparging instead of raining water on the grain bed. It's a good system, I get about 85% efficiency regularly, however I am tired of moving 50# of liquid up and down and around for my gravity-based system.

I am planning on using induction to heat, a pump to move it all around and a plate chiller. Could someone in the community answer some questions, please?

1. Where is the optimal place to put the pump? I can mount it on the edge of the table I built, just below the vessel outlets, but I see them mounted 2-3' lower than the vessels, often on a lower shelf. Is there a good reason for so much hose/distance? It seems like a lot of wasted wort stuck in hoses once the pump runs dry.

2. From the Boil Kettle, I am planning to go: through the pump to a Boomer (for hopback and filtration) to plate chiller to thrumometer (optional?) to fermentor. Is this good or bad for my future beer? Should I do something else?

I have been upgrading my equipment somewhat seriously since October last year, so I am using an 8G Megapot 1.2 HLT, 10G SS Brewtech MT, 10G Megapot 1.2 BK, Blichmann pump and Blichmann plate chiller. I can switch the HLT and BK if someone thinks I am bass-ackwards, but I figured the wider mouth on the 10G would be better for avoiding boil-overs and DMS.

3. For the LODO crowd, do you pump CO2 into your hoses in order to eliminate as much O2 from your system as possible when you move H2O/wort from one vessel to the other? I really want to keep as much hop flavor as I can; this is the hill I am willing to die on.

Thanks in advance,

Reevesie

 

[Ayzala]

Just some quick thoughts.
1) Some put the pump low if they are using gas to prevent melting the pump, if your going electric go ahead and put the pump just below the valves.
2) I would just be concerned about hop material escaping and getting stuck in the chiller, but if its a good filter, why not.
3) You only have to worry about o2 after fermentation has started, the yeast need o2 to get going so don't worry about exposure until after that.
Good luck.

 

[centralpabrewer]

I have been using induction for probably 5 years now. I have two Avantco 240V induction plates with two 10gal kettles. I mount a pump directly on each kettle. One kettle for mashing, one kettle for boil. I don't use a plate chiller anymore. I find them to hard to clean. I use a Jaded Brewing Hydra immersion chiller. When the ground water is cold, I can go from boiling to fermenter in less than 10 minutes.

 

[JAReeves]

Another question, if you all don't mind.

In checking the breaker box, it looks like they linked 2 20A breakers together to make the 240V outlet. I am not an electrician, but am I wrong in assuming:

1. This means it's a 40A circuit, and
2. I can add a beefed-up 240V extension cord between outlet and burner?

 

[Bobby_M]

Another question, if you all don't mind.

In checking the breaker box, it looks like they linked 2 20A breakers together to make the 240V outlet. I am not an electrician, but am I wrong in assuming:

1. This means it's a 40A circuit, and
2. I can add a beefed-up 240V extension cord between outlet and burner?

No, its a 20amp 240v circuit.

 

[JAReeves]

Thank you again! I bought a 20A, 240V burner, so it shouldn’t tax the breakers too much, then.