3 tier gravity setup question

[westwoodbrewer]

Hi,
So I just moved to a house, and now have plans to move my brewing outside, and will be going with a gravity based system. My main question is about the qualities of flow rates. I will have a HLT w/ a spigot 1 1/2 inch of the base, and plan to hook it to my MT (same spigot location). I am confident that as long as both the HLT and MT are open at the top, the fluid will transfer. My question is will it transfer as quickly as if I just put the hose in the open top and drain it that way? Will the properties change when it is wort and not water (MT to BK?)
I know that from a physics standpoint it will work but I took a trip to my LHBS and the main guy there advised me against my plans. Anybody who wants to chime in here would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Jbear]

I run my mash/sparge water into the bottom valve on the mash tun like you're describing. It works well for my set up and, especially with the sparge I feel it helps stir up the grain bed as it fills. It does seem to have more of a tendency to leave an air pocket in the hose, which you have to get out for a full flow. But I just kind of momentarily bend it up as it leaves the HLT and it forces the air out.

 

[westwoodbrewer]

Thanks for the reply. How long does it take to transfer 5 gal? how about 10? Does it slow down when you are nearly all drained? What type of tubing do you use? How do you do on heat loss?

Sorry to throw out so many more questions. I have read a lot of threads and not found the info I am searching for. Thanks in advance.

 

[Jbear]

Both my HLT and MT have 1/2" ball valves with barbed nipples threaded in, and I use 1/2" i.d. silicone tubing to transfer. I've never timed how long it takes to fill the mash tun, but its definitely less than 5 minutes to mash in, or sparge, etc with around 5 gallons of water. Like any drain/siphon, the fuller the top container and the more vertical run you have the faster it will go. So it does slow down a little toward the end, but it still flows ok and if I need 5 gallons to mash in, I usually heat 6-7 gallons so I have a couple as a buffer. It does take a bit longer going from the MT to kettle, however, since usually only have the valve part way open.

As far as temperatures go, I have a stainless mash tun with Reflectix insulation... Through some trial and error, I've found that if I add about 3* to what I calculate for a strike temp to allow for heating the tun, it works out pretty accurately. Over an hour, I will lose 2-3* on the thru-wall thermometer, but typically only lose 0-1* on the floating one I place in the center of the mash.