JB_Brewing2
Well-Known Member
Are you using a medium BIAC with Beersmith and have found no issues?
3-in-1 "Boil Kettle, Jacketed Chiller, Conical Fermenter" by Brewha
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Are you using a medium BIAC with Beersmith and have found no issues?
No, I don't have one. I am just saying that you need to give Beersmith the proper information to start from......
If the equipment profile does not match reality Beersmith cannot give the right results.
JB_Brewing2
Well-Known Member
Yes, I was aware of that. I was questioning the accuracy of the equipment profile provided on the Brewha website.
cuda6pak,
What adjustments have you made to the equipment profile?
Ok, didn't know it was a Brewha profile. I have a pieced together system so I had to work out all the details myself.
That said, even the placement of the system in the house will make some difference. Someone with a cooler room and great ventilation, will get a different boil off than someone in a hot garage with little ventilation.
I've noticed that on my small BIAC where I do not have contol over the heater (on full or off) it can easily scortch. This is especially true when just starting the mash because particles fall through and sit on the heater and may burn. And going with a lower mash volumn to compensate for the lack of grain absorption can also cause the level to go too low during recirculation and expose the heating element whish will then scortch in a few seconds. I just ruined a batch with some flaked wheat this way when the mash stuck a bit. I'm going to get a control for the burner, but wondered what others were doing with their heater control during mash and boil. I will start turning the heat off until the grain lays a bed and will probably not go full wattage on the boil and instead ramp up a bit. I think the extra false bottom is a good idea as well. My LHBS has their mill set a little fine for the BIAC so this may help.
As for clogging the chugger, I manually vorlauf a few times with a pitcher before hooking up the pump. Learned that the ard way on my first batch.
For sparging, I ramp up my initial temp to about 175F-180F with an almost full vessel without the colander. Then run out down to my mash volume into an old insulated cooler mash tun for sparging water. When I drop the cold colander in, it pretty much settles to my strike temp. I do a mash out to 168F to get everything a bit thinner (20mins) and then sparge very slowly. I get about 80%. Hit my SG pretty consistently.
I would not recirculate the mash with the colander up as this seems like it could lead to oxidized wort too easily.
As for clogging the chugger, I manually vorlauf a few times with a pitcher before hooking up the pump. Learned that the ard way on my first batch.
For sparging, I ramp up my initial temp to about 175F-180F with an almost full vessel without the colander. Then run out down to my mash volume into an old insulated cooler mash tun for sparging water. When I drop the cold colander in, it pretty much settles to my strike temp. I do a mash out to 168F to get everything a bit thinner (20mins) and then sparge very slowly. I get about 80%. Hit my SG pretty consistently.
I would not recirculate the mash with the colander up as this seems like it could lead to oxidized wort too easily.
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
I believe it's in Tools > Advanced > Grain Absorption Rate. I've changed mine to 0.78 according to my first 5 brews and thought I had it dialed in, but still seem to come out with more wort, though the last few bathes have had lots of flaked adjuncts and then latest had 6lbs of pumpkin.
For the medium BIAC I dial down my heat control to 25-30% of full power. That keeps it from scorching anything and also keeps it from re-heating the recirculating wort too fast creating mismatched temps.
I would manually vorlauf first but I like to recirculate all my water first to get all my RO water additions throughly mixed throughout all of the water. I think the double false bottom will prevent the need for a manual vorlauf
JB_Brewing2
Well-Known Member
I made the mistake of loosening the clamp on one of the ball valves that came with the system. Now, I can't get it to stop leaking. I use these on the cooling jacket and the lid as a vent. These ball valves seem like they are really nice quality pieces, but damn, I just can't get it to stop leaking. Is there a trick to getting these back together or should I just buy more butterfly valves?
I had the same problem until I started completely disassembling the valve (removing handle and all), and reassembling. The key seemed to be installing the handle last as it allowed the gasket to properly align in the groves.
Hi,
Thanks for the pict. If you do not mind I have a few questions:
1) Was the Chugger pump extra or did it come with the system?
2) Is your picture a Small BAIC?
Seriously considering a purchase....the current US $ to Canadian $ exchange rate is very favorable.
That thought did occur to me. Now that you have confirmed it, that is what I'll do. It seems like the gasket was being stretched over by the handle and not aligning just like you said.
I just looked back a page at post 546 and see he has the small. The small does come with a Chugger but not a heat controller. Nathan has a lot of info on his site but it is not always easy to find. Here is the link to a page that will list what is included:
http://brewhaequipment.com/pages/biac-benefits-and-specifications#biaccontents
Thanks for taking the time to respond...the website is kinda confusing...as best I can tell it comes with the chugger pump and the electronic Temp Control...
It appears to me that (ion the small):
1) for boiling you just plug the element into a wall socket ....
2) for mash temp control you plug the element into the electronic temperature control
3)for fermentation temp control the electronic temp control will control the electronic temp valve....
trying to confirm this with Nathan....any insight would be appreciated...
Trying to sort it out...
Breeze of a brew day yesterday. After dialing in my new MMPro-2 gap settings I hit 78% efficiency on a simple session oatmeal IPA. During the mashout I was able to crank my pump up to recirc faster than I ever have before and was draining no issue.
Also kegged 10 gallons of my Pumpkin Ale the day before. Ditched the racking hose like most others as I was tired of hop or debris matter clogging up the dip tube, hose, or disconnect. Just put a 1/2" silicon hose on a barb and let her rip wide open. Way less time and no chance of clogging. I've also bent all my dip tubes slightly so they pickup towards the sides about an 1"+ from the bottom cone of the keg to let any hop/debris matter than transferred have a place to sit while picking up clear beer. Helped especially on my heavily hopped IPA which was clogging over and over when I swapped kegs, then I bent the tube out of the way and crystal clear beer followed.
Also kegged 10 gallons of my Pumpkin Ale the day before. Ditched the racking hose like most others as I was tired of hop or debris matter clogging up the dip tube, hose, or disconnect. Just put a 1/2" silicon hose on a barb and let her rip wide open. Way less time and no chance of clogging. I've also bent all my dip tubes slightly so they pickup towards the sides about an 1"+ from the bottom cone of the keg to let any hop/debris matter than transferred have a place to sit while picking up clear beer. Helped especially on my heavily hopped IPA which was clogging over and over when I swapped kegs, then I bent the tube out of the way and crystal clear beer followed.
You absolutely must get a power controller for it or you will get scorching. One with a full power bypass switch is great. I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BLOSG7I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
For boiling I find I have to put the top on or it takes forever (I leave the ports open and set the alarm for 200F then remove). I cannot seem to get a rigorous boil, though. Quite adequate, but when you get up or over 6.5 Gal boil I cannot seem to get over about 208F. Going down to 5.5-6gal it seems fine. Benefit of this, though is it pretty much will not boil over
Another issue I have is the mill my LHBS uses is too fine and the mash tends to get stuck if you are using 10lbs or more grain (at or above the limit).
I only went with the small as I did not want to mess wiring 240v. I am quite happy with it overall, but realize there are some limits. If you can do 240v, then I recommend you go med.
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Mine did not come with a temperature controller or chugger. I got the chugger when I ordered and a temperature controller after.
You absolutely must get a temperature controller for it or you will get scorching. One with a full power bypass switch is great. I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BLOSG7I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
For boiling I find I have to put the top on or it takes forever (I leave the ports open and set the alarm for 200F then remove). I cannot seem to get a rigorous boil, though. Quite adequate, but when you get up or over 6.5 Gal boil I cannot seem to get over about 208F. Going down to 5.5-6gal it seems fine. Benefit of this, though is it pretty much will not boil over
Another issue I have is the mill my LHBS uses is too fine and the mash tends to get stuck if you are using 10lbs or more grain (at or above the limit).
I only went with the small as I did not want to mess wiring 240v. I am quite happy with it overall, but realize there are some limits. If you can do 240v, then I recommend you go med.
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brew-in, you can contact Nathan at BREWHA and he will reply within a day. He has been very quick to answer any question I have ever asked. At least the tech stuff. Here is still the best place to get answers from actual owners.
Thanks all...seems like a great system but the whole 1500 watt element causes me concern. I am at sea level and suspect I w2uld struggle getting a boil in the garage on a winter day.....the whole electronic control side seems to be lacking on the Small BIAC. I sure would expect to get a temp controlled, pump, and power control as part of the package.....looking at the website it is confusing what comes with it.....I have emailed Nathan.
The Brau Systems BIAC seem to be a much more complete system....
http://brausupply.com/collections/pro-systems
I emailed them with some questions yesterday and have yet to hear back....
The Brau Systems BIAC seem to be a much more complete system....
http://brausupply.com/collections/pro-systems
I emailed them with some questions yesterday and have yet to hear back....
JB_Brewing2
Well-Known Member
I looked at both Brewha's systems and Brausupply's and decided to go with a Brewha medium BIAC. It's an incredible system and I have had no disappointment. I was hoping to brew beer that was at least comparable to my 3 vessel gravity system. The brews I'm making now with the BIAC far surpass what I was brewing before in all aspects. If you can swing the extra dollars for a medium BIAC you'll never regret it. System quality and customer service are really incredible.
Thanks for the response....the more I look at it the more I might try and swing a medium BIAC...
so what did you see as the advantages of the Brewha over the BrauSupply that swayed you toward it...
Thanks again for your time and thoughts...
so what did you see as the advantages of the Brewha over the BrauSupply that swayed you toward it...
Thanks again for your time and thoughts...
Wow, I had never even seen the BrauSupply system. I really do like my medium BIAC, but it does take some time to get it dialed in as far as mash-in volumes and strike temps. If you want a small electric system, I think the GrainFather looks pretty interesting for $890. It is not an all in one system like the BIAC. But it does look like a very nice indoor countertop system.
JB_Brewing2
Well-Known Member
Certainly the thorough and fast responses I received to my, what one could construed as "nagging", questions (how much to ship, where's the delivery dock, how much lead time, etc.) helped but the actual system itself sold me. I wasn't wild about having to lift that cooling coil attached to the lid into a large quantity of boiling wort. While the jacketed system may have a time disadvantage to the cooling coil, it hasn't been an issue for me and its convenience outweighs its disadvantage. I use Brewha's "kink resistant" hose (came with my unit) on the inlet and outlet to the jacket and haven't had any issues. I just finished brewing a 10 gallon Oberon clone recipe and from the end of the boil to pitching temp was 45 minutes (53 degree F ground water temp). That may seem like a long time to some but it gives me some time to tend to other things (clean the colander of spent grain, empty hop baskets, and prep the blow off jar with StarSan). I'm sure Brausupply's system is good too. I just found Brewha's more to my liking and the support has been unlike any I have experienced. Hope this helps.
Not much that I can add for one vs the other. As mentioned, the service from Nathan at BREWHA has been fantastic. I've been brewing on mine for just over a year now and I'm still loving it. Easiest, worry free brew days that I have ever had.
I too have noticed the service...Nathan has been quick and precise in answering questions.
A couple of items that I like about the BrauSupply system:
1) Conical rated to 10 PSI
2) Includes very nice controller and pump. Still trying to sort out what is included in Brewha.
3) Like the immersion coil for cooling and temp control. Simple and it can withstand full household water pressure.
Concerns so far:
1) Radio Silence....several emails and an inquiry form on their website have gone unanswered. Not sure if this is typical or a unique situation (vacation, website problems, etc.)
I will keep you all posted once I get responses....
A couple of items that I like about the BrauSupply system:
1) Conical rated to 10 PSI
2) Includes very nice controller and pump. Still trying to sort out what is included in Brewha.
3) Like the immersion coil for cooling and temp control. Simple and it can withstand full household water pressure.
Concerns so far:
1) Radio Silence....several emails and an inquiry form on their website have gone unanswered. Not sure if this is typical or a unique situation (vacation, website problems, etc.)
I will keep you all posted once I get responses....
I concur with the speed and thoroughness of Nathan's responses to questions. I do like the cooling coil idea and that is why I kept a plate chiller. Around here in summer, the water is probably around 80F. At a certain point, I have to switch over to glycol to reach fermentation temps. I'll be having some Saturday and Sunday brew sessions in the autumn season and will use my two conical SSBrewtech Brew Buckets for fermentation along with the BIAC. I'll be able to go directly from BIAC to BrewBucket using my plate chiller and I can do it much faster. As winter moves in our water will return to the 50F or colder temps and my BIAC cooling will work much better. Don't get me wrong, it works pretty darn well right now, but when your ground water is 80F, it takes longer and even a plate chiller can only do so much when the water is 80.
I do have to wonder if the lid for the Unibrau Pro would fit my medium BIAC. In the photos, they look very similar...as if they are made in the same factory.
I do have to wonder if the lid for the Unibrau Pro would fit my medium BIAC. In the photos, they look very similar...as if they are made in the same factory.
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