NoIguanaForZ
Well-Known Member
*makes a note*
1. Every part of the process takes longer than you expect.
2. Take. Frickin'. Notes. The things I didn't write down are really starting to get to me these days.
2 most important things you learned/wish you knew
- Thread starter Calichusetts
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk:
*makes a note*
1. Every part of the process takes longer than you expect.
2. Take. Frickin'. Notes. The things I didn't write down are really starting to get to me these days.
During your brew day, write down not only what happened, but what you need to do differently next time. This makes planning the next brew a lot easier, and it helps make sure that the bad stuff doesn't happen again.
And don't get drunk on brew day, then try to write intelligently. Hilarity & WTF's can ensue...
As long as you clean and sanitize your equipment, the yeast will take care of themselves.
Within reason, I don't even think absolute fermentation temperature control is crucial. (fermenting at 62 vs 64 vs 66 vs 68 probably wont make much difference for an IPA, maybe it will for a Weizen with the clove/bubblegum balance).
Don't go fermenting at 78-80, as that's not within reason, that's hot.
The things that will really make a difference are:
1. (if you bottle) Cold Crashing - before cold crashing I always had a quarter inch of yeast at the bottom of my bottles, even if careful when racking, and waiting a few weeks to bottle. If you keg, you have the advantage of drawing off the first pint and dumping it.
2. (if you like IPAs) - instead of adding hops between 0-15 minutes, adding them after flame out (at 185F or less) for 40+ minutes. You get way more flavor and aroma. Plus a dry hop at the end. And don't be stingy with the hops, use that extra ounce or two (or three)
Within reason, I don't even think absolute fermentation temperature control is crucial. (fermenting at 62 vs 64 vs 66 vs 68 probably wont make much difference for an IPA, maybe it will for a Weizen with the clove/bubblegum balance).
Don't go fermenting at 78-80, as that's not within reason, that's hot.
The things that will really make a difference are:
1. (if you bottle) Cold Crashing - before cold crashing I always had a quarter inch of yeast at the bottom of my bottles, even if careful when racking, and waiting a few weeks to bottle. If you keg, you have the advantage of drawing off the first pint and dumping it.
2. (if you like IPAs) - instead of adding hops between 0-15 minutes, adding them after flame out (at 185F or less) for 40+ minutes. You get way more flavor and aroma. Plus a dry hop at the end. And don't be stingy with the hops, use that extra ounce or two (or three)
OP
OP
Calichusetts
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. I was already through most of it and this was a great reinforcement of a lot of what I read, and some of your points and how you said them are great. I'll toss a link out there when I get this things done.
1) Happy yeast = happy beer. Fermentation temp control and proper pitch rates are more important than almost any mistake you can make producing wort.
2) Focus on *why* you do something. Complicated process or recipe is fine, if you can articulate why it needs to be that complex. If you can't, maybe you should focus on simplicity to learn the baby steps. Then you'll understand why the complicated stuff needs to be complicated.
2) Focus on *why* you do something. Complicated process or recipe is fine, if you can articulate why it needs to be that complex. If you can't, maybe you should focus on simplicity to learn the baby steps. Then you'll understand why the complicated stuff needs to be complicated.
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
Unless you are dry hopping.
or do it in the primary...
1) yeast starters=quick fermentation
2) it's a hobby and is supposed to be fun. I can get bogged down and intense on brew day i.e. Homemade wort chiller won't drop temp fast enough and I'm going to have an infection. I've chucked the crappy WC and just put it in the ferment bucket and wait til the morning to pitch (hence #1). The first book I read was Charlie Papazian's The Joy of Homebrewing and RDWHAHB still works for me.
3) I took a 10-15 year hiatus from brewing when I had kids. Don't do it. Keep brewing, even extract. I had gone to AG and didn't have time for the whole process. I should have done extract for that time.
2) it's a hobby and is supposed to be fun. I can get bogged down and intense on brew day i.e. Homemade wort chiller won't drop temp fast enough and I'm going to have an infection. I've chucked the crappy WC and just put it in the ferment bucket and wait til the morning to pitch (hence #1). The first book I read was Charlie Papazian's The Joy of Homebrewing and RDWHAHB still works for me.
3) I took a 10-15 year hiatus from brewing when I had kids. Don't do it. Keep brewing, even extract. I had gone to AG and didn't have time for the whole process. I should have done extract for that time.
VApatriot
Well-Known Member
1) Similar to mise en place in cooking, I find my brew day goes much better if I get all my equipment, ingredients, and tools set out and organized before I ever light a burner. After a few times of running around like a chicken w/out a head you learn to get organized first.
2) I learned to continuously stir my wort while I'm waiting for it kick over to boil because it makes boil overs much less likely. When you have an 8 gallon kettle and 6 1/2 gallons of wort, it's too easy to boil over and have a huge mess to clean up.
2) I learned to continuously stir my wort while I'm waiting for it kick over to boil because it makes boil overs much less likely. When you have an 8 gallon kettle and 6 1/2 gallons of wort, it's too easy to boil over and have a huge mess to clean up.
I dry hop in the primary.
I add the hops, set up a cooler with ice water (takes a day), then put the bucket in ice water to cold crash.
The cold crash time = around 2 days, the dry hop time, around 3 days.
Wait is that for real? Don't people store starsan in plastic spray bottles for months at a time? And don't a lot of people store it in plastic buckets in between use?
I'm being serious about this question too, in case you're wondering if it's just sarcastic questions. I really don't know, and I store my starsan in a plastic tub. So just wanna know why it's wrong before I stop doing it!
beergolf
Well-Known Member
Think about this. What kind of container does Starsan come in?
Hahaha, good point. Wow.
DapperD
Active Member
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I was thinking the same thing...
I learned a lot in my first year, even more in my second year.
1. Cleaning & sanitizing (these are different steps)
2. Like stated before, fermentation temp control. There are other ways to achieve this. My 'go-to' method, before a chest freezer and STC-1000+, was setting my buckets in a water bath and cycling frozen water bottles in and out. I shot to keep the water bath temp about 5° below target ferm temp for the first 3-4 days or until the blowoff slowed down, then shot to keep it at the target temp.
Also, YouTube is a great resource for visual aids when you're struggling to understand a process. As well, learning proper terminology will help you to quickly zero in what you're looking for.
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
What he means is, don't store vinyl tubing in starsan, PBW, cleaners, etc. It will not be actually damaged, but some of the chemicals can leave a ugly whitish residue that doesn't look nice on clear tubing.
Starsan comes in HDPE. HDPE and PET plastics don't have this issue.
Knowing the uses and limitations of the common plastics is actually quite important for a modern home brewer: http://www.brewgeeks.com/homebrewers-guide-to-plastics.html
Yes, 1-liter bottles are nice. Though I use glass ones with the flip top.
Ok, gotcha. But other than not looking so "new" anymore, it's not gonna make it start leaching chemicals or anything will it?
Singletrack
Because it's judgement that defeats us.
1. Based on limited information, latch on to a particular brewing process/technique and equipment and forever-after relentlessly insist that your method is the best and only correct method for making beer.
2. Apply the philosophy of item 1 to all other aspects of life, such as politics or religion.
I'm sorry. What was the question again?
2. Apply the philosophy of item 1 to all other aspects of life, such as politics or religion.
I'm sorry. What was the question again?
I guess I can take a crack at this thing...
1) Treat your yeast with care, and it will ferment superb beer for you. That means temperature control, a healthy yeast starter, and well aerated/oxygenated wort prior to pitching. It seems like newbies gravitate towards malt and hop selection without giving their yeast requirements a second's thought. IME, yeast selection and conditions dictate 90% of the end product. Be nice to your yeasties.
2) Time heals (almost) all wounds. In time, yeasts attenuate, off flavors dissipate, and appearances improve dramatically. It's only human nature to anticipate results, but in most cases, time is on your side. Most beer styles benefit from extended fermentation / conditioning periods, and the difference in taste between them can be tremendous. This, I think, is the genesis of Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Home Brew!
1) Treat your yeast with care, and it will ferment superb beer for you. That means temperature control, a healthy yeast starter, and well aerated/oxygenated wort prior to pitching. It seems like newbies gravitate towards malt and hop selection without giving their yeast requirements a second's thought. IME, yeast selection and conditions dictate 90% of the end product. Be nice to your yeasties.
2) Time heals (almost) all wounds. In time, yeasts attenuate, off flavors dissipate, and appearances improve dramatically. It's only human nature to anticipate results, but in most cases, time is on your side. Most beer styles benefit from extended fermentation / conditioning periods, and the difference in taste between them can be tremendous. This, I think, is the genesis of Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Home Brew!
WenValley
Well-Known Member
When it comes to sanitation, there are no shortcuts.
poorboy5
Member
"Clean" and "sanitary" are not the same thing.
Start simple and go from there; +1 on the SMaSH Ale post. Also, get to know your beer all along the process by smelling & tasting. Check the propane bottle BEFORE brewday.
Start simple and go from there; +1 on the SMaSH Ale post. Also, get to know your beer all along the process by smelling & tasting. Check the propane bottle BEFORE brewday.
chisena
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First, thanks for clearing it up Andrew. I obviously should have been more specific about vinyl vs. plastic. I soaked vinyl tuning overnight once. The next day it was cloudy and very sticky to the touch. Against all good judgement, I proceeded to use it to rack 5 gallons to keg. The beer later had a distinctive plastic taste. Ruined. I think the StarSan literally started to break down the vinyl. I was unable to remove the stickiness on the outside of the tubing, let alone the inside. I tossed it. Whether or not harmful material was making its way into the beer, I don't know. Something was though, and it tasted awful.
Damn! Ok, won't be doing that then.
