2.5” pipe for tower

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Firstdue1010

New Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2021
Messages
3
Reaction score
4
Anyone know where I can find threaded 2.5” pipe for a kegerator tower? If not, an alternate suggestion for attachment. The device I want to use as my taps has a 2.5 female coupling. I cannot find this size pipe locally (Roanoke, Va).
Pic is of what I want to attach.
thank you.
 

Attachments

  • EB1EDA55-AF6E-4E7E-A12E-FD1112B6B685.jpeg
    EB1EDA55-AF6E-4E7E-A12E-FD1112B6B685.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 50
Anyone know where I can find threaded 2.5” pipe for a kegerator tower? If not, an alternate suggestion for attachment. The device I want to use as my taps has a 2.5 female coupling. I cannot find this size pipe locally (Roanoke, Va).
Pic is of what I want to attach.
thank you.
That's NST, national standard thread, AKA fire hose thread. Not interchangeable with NPT, or pipe thread.
 
Probably for the best.
Incorporating that huge hunk of metal into a dispensing system may not be the best idea ever.
Not only would a whole host of cleaning issues immediately arise, that much thermal mass would most likely affect multiple pours...

Cheers!
 
That's NST, national standard thread, AKA fire hose thread. Not interchangeable with NPT, or pipe thread.
That’s an interesting use for a gated wye and I’m digging it. One of our mutual aid departments has NPSH (National Pipe Straight Thread) on all their trucks, hose and city fire hydrants. We have to carry an assortment of adapters to be compatible with their equipment when we’re on scene with them. You need this adapter and you’ll be off to the races.;)
 
Probably for the best.
Incorporating that huge hunk of metal into a dispensing system may not be the best idea ever.
Not only would a whole host of cleaning issues immediately arise, that much thermal mass would most likely affect multiple pours...

Cheers!
If I’m understanding the OP, I think they want to use the Wye as the upper portion of a tower and the liquid lines would run inside like a standard bar tower. Insulation would be an issue, but I really think the concept is possible. It might get pricey, but here are some ideas to get you started. I linked galvanized pipe because of corrosion resistance and it’s cheaper than stainless. Black pipe would be cheapest if you add a clear coat. Let me know if I’m on the right track. I’m an 18 year vet in the fire service and I think it’s a cool idea.
2 1/2 Street Elbow
2 1/2” X 12” galvanized nipple
2 1/2” galvanized flange
You’ll still need the adapter I linked above too.

Edit: fixed links
 
Last edited:
What might look really cool would be to build the support for it with a bend or two and then put a section of firehose over it to make it look like the hose is supporting it. Maybe go with 2" pipe.

Or maybe flanged pipe, that's kind of firehouse style.

Just some thoughts, I think its pretty cool too.

I got insulation and 4 lines up through 2" black cast iron pipe. The four lines are inside 1" tubing for air circulation and then the insulation I think is for 1". It's tight. Two lines easy peasy.
 
I’m racking my brain trying to think about how to clean up the way your faucet would attach to the 1 1/2 reducer.
Maybe epoxy the shanks in place when you’re certain everything else is going to work? Gotta think of something other than duct tape.:cool:
71004DC1-8BB1-46AE-8C05-B20F500A69EA.jpeg
 
Aluminum 1 1/2" NPSH to 1 1/2" NPSH Double Female
Says it can connect to NPT. From there, use a 1 1/2" to 1" NPT bushing. I think I used a 2"x3/4" bushing but I had to drill it out. I think the 1" is just big enough to pass the shank through. I'll look at mine again. The 1" bushing will have a flat face and you can put the black piece that comes with the shank on it. I can't think of them name that part at the moment.
 
That’s an interesting use for a gated wye and I’m digging it. One of our mutual aid departments has NPSH (National Pipe Straight Thread) on all their trucks, hose and city fire hydrants. We have to carry an assortment of adapters to be compatible with their equipment when we’re on scene with them. You need this adapter and you’ll be off to the races.;)
Thanks for the link. While I knew that threads were different than pipe thread I hadn't figured out an adapter for that. Was hoping whoever threaded the pipe could cut the correct thread type. We'll see how it all works out.
 
I’m racking my brain trying to think about how to clean up the way your faucet would attach to the 1 1/2 reducer.
Maybe epoxy the shanks in place when you’re certain everything else is going to work? Gotta think of something other than duct tape.:cool:
View attachment 748481
this was just to show an example of what I was trying to accomplish. The bushing fits neatly inside the 1.5" cap. The cap will be drilled to allow the shank to pass through. hopefully neat and functional.
 
One thing if you haven't already considered it is that there is difficulty in accessing the beer line side of the shank once the faucet is mounted for some configurations Particularly if the faucet is mounted to a bushing that screws in. (I have a cast iron pipe tower.) In your situation you have that plate with the four hex screws that you could open up if you wanted to but it would ruin the patina so to speak. I've never had to take a wye gate apart, especially a big one like that, but if you size your shank your right, I'm thinking you could take the handles off and have the shank and fitting accessible there. A push to connect fitting on the end of the shank would also make things easier.

What other parts you got laying around? Those gate valve handles would make nice tap handles if you had extras or maybe handles from a 1". Perhaps a little old discarded hydrant for the tower body, now that would be heavy!
 
this was just to show an example of what I was trying to accomplish. The bushing fits neatly inside the 1.5" cap. The cap will be drilled to allow the shank to pass through. hopefully neat and functional.
That’s a good idea. I thought that was an 1 1/2 to 3/4 garden hose adapter. A drilled cap makes perfect sense.
 
Back
Top